Yuanlingshan

Template:Short description A yuanlingshan () is a type of round-collared upper garment () in the traditional Chinese style of clothing known as ; it is also referred to as a () or a () when used as a robe (called Template:Rp). The and were both developed under the influence of ancient Chinese clothing, known as , originating from the Donghu people during the early Han dynasty and later by the , including the Xianbei people, during the Six Dynasties period. The is an article of formal attire primarily worn by men, although in certain dynasties, such as the Tang dynasty, it was also fashionable for women to wear. In the Tang dynasty, the could be transformed into the using buttons.

There are specific forms of and named for their decorations and construction; for example, the (), also called () for short, ,Template:Rp (), (), and ().

Terminology

The term literally translates to "round collar shirt", consisting of the Chinese characters (), which literally translates to "round collar" and (), literally translated as "shirt".

The term literally translates to "round collar robe (or gown)", consisting of the Chinese characters and (). is an abbreviation for the term (), which is literally translated as "robe" or "gown".

The term () or simply () refers to a specific variation of characterized by a bottom horizontal band attached at the knee level, while following the overall form of the , a long robe.

The term () is a generic term referring to clothing adorned with a rank badge known as (), which is often a mandarin square or roundels, to indicate its wearer's rank.Template:RpTemplate:Rp Such garments were typically worn by government officials.Template:Rp

When a or is decorated with Chinese dragons called () or decorated with () decorations, including roundels or square rank badges, the generic term or mangfu is applied respectively depending on the number of dragon-claws used and the time period.Template:NoteTag

History

Han dynasty

The and were both common forms of clothing for the Hu people. During the Eastern Han dynasty, some forms of started to be influenced by the of the Hu people, leading to the emergence of garments with round collars, or . In this period, the was primarily used as an undergarment. The collars of the Han dynasty were not turned on both sides and their edges were similar to the styles worn in the Sui and Tang dynasties. It was also during the early years of the Han dynasty that the shape of the worn in the later dynasties, such as in the Ming dynasties, started to develop.

Wei, Jin, Northern, and Southern dynasties / Six Dynasties

During the era of the Six Dynasties, the began to be worn as an outer garment influenced by the culture of ethnic minorities, the , who founded the minority nationalities regime in the Wei and Jin dynasties. It is also during the Six Dynasties period that the started to be worn as formal clothing. Hence, these ethnic minorities played a significant role in laying the foundation for the popularity of the in the subsequent dynasties.

Influence of the Xianbei

When the migrated to the Central Plains, their dressing culture influenced the clothing culture of the Han people in the region. These northern nomads, including the Xianbei, also introduced new clothing styles, including the (), a type of crotch-length long jacket. The had either a round or snug (plunged) collar, tight sleeves, and less overlap than the traditional , which allowed for greater freedom of movement, especially for horse riding, and strongly impacted Chinese fashion.Template:Rp

File:Pottery Figurine of Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties (10369962173).jpg

Panling lanshan, Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties

The Northern Wei dynasty was marked by cultural integration between the Xianbei and the Han Chinese. The Xianbei ruling elites adopted Chinese clothing and Chinese customs, while the Han Chinese started to integrate some of the Xianbei's nomadic style clothing, including high boots and narrow-sleeved and into Han clothing.Template:Rp In this period, the worn by unearthed terracotta warriors were closed in the -style instead of -style, reflecting its characteristics.Template:NoteTag Since the Northern Wei dynasty, the shapes of the Han Chinese's also started to be influenced by the -style robe, which originated in Western Asia and was then spread to the East through the Sogdians of Central Asia.

In the Northern and Southern dynasties, the of the Xianbei was localized by the Han Chinese, resulting in a loss of its association with and developed into a new form of , called . This evolution was achieved through the addition of a new seam structure called (), which aligned with the traditional style and followed the Han Chinese's robe.

• Yuanlingpao worn by an acrobat figure, Northern Wei
  Yuanlingpao worn by an acrobat figure, Northern Wei
• Women wearing yuanlingshan with skirt, Northern Wei, Datong
  Women wearing yuanlingshan with skirt, Northern Wei, Datong
• Xianbei men wearing quekua in the form yuanlingpao, Fresco from the Tomb of Lou Rui, Northern Qi (550-577 AD)
  Xianbei men wearing quekua in the form yuanlingpao, Fresco from the Tomb of Lou Rui, Northern Qi (550-577 AD)
• Xianbei men wearing quekua in the form of yualingpao and the lapel gown, Northern Qi
  Xianbei men wearing quekua in the form of yualingpao and the lapel gown, Northern Qi

Influence of the Sogdians

File:Funerary bed for Sogdian tradesman An Qie, Xi’an, showing dancer performing the Sogdian Whirl.jpg

Sogdian wearing their Sogdian-style yuanlingpao, 579 AD

The Sogdians and their descendants, mostly from the merchant class, who lived in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length, -style kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but also showed some influences from East Asia, including Chinese and early Turkic influences. Due to the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right in the -style. Their kaftan would often be buttoned up to the neck, forming a round collar. Occasionally, the collar or lower button would be undone to form lapel robes, a style sometimes referred to as (). This dressing custom of wearing -style robes was later inherited and developed into the of the subsequent Tang and Sui dynasties.

Sui and Tang dynasties, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period

In the Tang dynasty, the descendants of the Xianbei and the other non-Chinese people who ruled northern China from 304 – 581 AD lost their ethnic identity and became Chinese; the term Han referred to all people of the Tang dynasty instead of describing the population ruled by the Xianbei elites during the Northern dynasties.

The and , tied with a belt commonly made of leather at the waist, became a typical form of fashion for both men and women during the Tang dynasty, as it was fashionable for women to dress like men in this period.Template:Rp Both garments became the main form of clothing for men as well. Both the and of this period had a long, straight back and front with a border at the collar. The front and back of the garments each had a piece of fabric attached for tying the clothing around the waist. The sleeves could be tight or loose, with tight sleeves designed to facilitate ease of movements. Trousers were worn under the . Some women also wore under their .

• A male rider wearing a yuanlingshan, Tang dynasty
  A male rider wearing a yuanlingshan, Tang dynasty
• Eunuchs wearing yuanlingpao with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD
  Eunuchs wearing yuanlingpao with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD
• Women (middle and right) wearing yuanlingpao with tight and narrow long sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD
  Women (middle and right) wearing yuanlingpao with tight and narrow long sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD
• Servant girl wearing a yuanlingpao with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty painting, mid-8th century AD
  Servant girl wearing a yuanlingpao with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty painting, mid-8th century AD
• Servant girl with loose sleeves yuanlingpao, Tang dynasty, mid-8th century AD
  Servant girl with loose sleeves yuanlingpao, Tang dynasty, mid-8th century AD
• Woman cross-dressing; she is wearing a banbi under her yuanlingpao; Tang dynasty
  Woman cross-dressing; she is wearing a banbi under her yuanlingpao; Tang dynasty
• Emperor Yizong of Tang, late Tang dynasty
  Emperor Yizong of Tang, late Tang dynasty
• Tomb of Wang Chuzhi, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period
  Tomb of Wang Chuzhi, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period
• Polo players wearing yuanlingpao with tight sleeves on horseback, Tang dynasty
  Polo players wearing yuanlingpao with tight sleeves on horseback, Tang dynasty

One distinctive feature of men's clothing during the Tang dynasty was a horizontal band, which could also be attached to the lower region of the .Template:Rp Tang dynasty scholars and government officials wore long, red with long sleeves, accompanied by headwear called . In 630 during the 4th year of Zhen Guan, colour regulations for the of the officials were decreed: purple for the 3rd and 4th rank officials; bright red for the 5th rank officials; green for the 6th and 7th rank officials; and blue for the 8th and 9th officials.Template:RpIn the Kaiyuan era (713 – 741 AD), slaves and the common soldiers also started to wear the scholar's .

• Panling lanshan, Tang dynasty
  Panling lanshan, Tang dynasty
• Mourning attendant wearing panling lanshan, Tang Dynasty
  Mourning attendant wearing panling lanshan, Tang Dynasty
• A Tang dynasty man (middle) wearing a panling lanshan, notice the large horizontal band at the bottom of the robe.
  A Tang dynasty man (middle) wearing a panling lanshan, notice the large horizontal band at the bottom of the robe.

Foreign influences

File:Tang Female Pottery Musician Playing Cymbals.jpg

decorated with borders (sleeves and front), a Central Asian influence, Tang dynasty

In the Tang dynasty, it was also popular for people to use fabrics, including brocade, to decorate the collars, sleeves and front of the ; this practice of clothing decoration is known as "partial decorations of gowns" and was influenced by the Sogdians of Central Asia, who had entered China since the Northern and Southern dynasties period. Influenced by foreign cultures, some could have a band of fabric decorated with Central Asian roundels which would run down at the center of the robe as a form of partial decoration.

It was also popular to wear . Almost all figurines and mural paintings depicting female court attendants dressed in men's clothing are wearing . The which was popular in this period was the clothing worn by the Tartars and the people who lived in the Western regions, which was brought from the Silk Road. Robes with double overturned lapels and tight-fitting sleeves were known as , which originated from Central Asia. During this period, the could be turned into a under the influence of by unbuttoning the robes, while the could be also be turned back into a when buttoned. In some unearthed pottery figures wearing dating from the Tang dynasty, it was found that the had three buttons on the collar. After the High Tang dynasty period, the influences of progressively started to fade and the clothing started to become increasingly loose.

Song dynasty

During the Song dynasty, the official attire worn by Song court officials was the with long, loose and broad sleeves.Template:RpTemplate:Rp The colours of the were also regulated based on the official's ranks.Template:RpTemplate:Rp The had a large overlapping region being held down by a broad strip of fabricTemplate:Rpand a long line which divided the front part of the gown.Template:Rp Kerchief (typically ), leather belt, and (), black hide boots or shoes, would be worn by the court officials as accessories.Template:RpTemplate:Rp

• Maids of a Song dynasty empress wearing yuanlingpao
  Maids of a Song dynasty empress wearing yuanlingpao
• Northern Song Male Buddhist donor with a loose-sleeved dark yuanlingpao
  Northern Song Male Buddhist donor with a loose-sleeved dark yuanlingpao
• Emperor Taizong of Song wearing a very large-sleeved yuanlingpao
  Emperor Taizong of Song wearing a very large-sleeved yuanlingpao
• Song dynasty Emperor Duzong wearing a very large-sleeved yuanlingpao
  Song dynasty Emperor Duzong wearing a very large-sleeved yuanlingpao

Liao, Jin and Western Xia dynasties

Liao dynasty

Khitan men wore the Khitan-style with a belt at their waist and trousers tucked into felt boots.Template:Rp The Khitan-style differed from those worn by the Han Chinese in terms of design and construction: the Khitan-style had both back and side slits, with the side slits located in the lower region of the robes. The back slits facilitated horse-riding and protected wearers' legs from the cold. Some of them had no slits. The Khitan-style also had narrow sleeves, was closed on the left side, and was unadorned.

• Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao, Liao dynasty
  Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao, Liao dynasty
• A Khitan guard wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao, Liao dynasty.
  A Khitan guard wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao, Liao dynasty.
• Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao
  Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao

Jin dynasty

• Men wearing yuanlingpao, Jurchen Jin dynasty
  Men wearing yuanlingpao, Jurchen Jin dynasty

Western Xia

• Men wearing round collar robes, Western Xia mural
  Men wearing round collar robes, Western Xia mural
• Western Xia men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao
  Western Xia men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao

Ming dynasty

After the establishment of the Ming dynasty, the emperor restored the old system of the Tang and Song dynasties. During the Ming dynasty, the and were also the most common form of attire for all genders, including officials and nobles. The and/or were not typically worn alone; a sleeveless vest called and an inner robe (either the or ) was commonly worn underneath.

The difference between the or of the civilians and of the officials and nobles was the addition of a (either a mandarin square or roundels rank badgeTemplate:Rp) and the fabric materials used.Template:NoteTag The clothing of the Ming dynasty was predominantly red, although, there were strict colour regulations depending on the ranks of officials.Template:NoteTag During an Imperial Funeral, Ming officers wore a grey-blue without a Mandarin square, () and . This set was known as ().

The Ming dynasty and were typically characterized by the "cross-plane structure", with the back and front being bounded by the middle seam of the sleeves. The front and back were symmetrical and the left and right were also largely symmetrical; there is a central line acting as the axis of this symmetry. It has a round collar without a high-standing collar which is secured with a button; it overlaps on the front side and closes at the right side in the -style, which follows the traditional system. It also has side slits on the right and left side. The sleeves of the are mostly in a style called (), which means the sleeves are large but curved to form a narrow sleeve cuff, to facilitate movements and be more practical in daily life. Men's and also have side panels called () at the side slits to conceal the undergarments. These side panels are also referred to as "side ears" which are unique to the Ming dynasty's ; this specific structure reflects the combination of and attire of the Mongols, the ethnic minority. The "side ear" also allows for greater ease of movement and can increase the looseness of the robe.

• A noblewomen's yuanlingpao, Ming dynasty
  A noblewomen's yuanlingpao, Ming dynasty
• File:Mingnoblewoman1.jpg
• Unearthed Ming dynasty artefact
  Unearthed Ming dynasty artefact
• Ming dynasty court official
  Ming dynasty court official
• Ming Emperor wearing round-collar robes decorated with dragon roundels. This form of dress is called the longpao (i.e., the dragon robes).
  Ming Emperor wearing round-collar robes decorated with dragon roundels. This form of dress is called the longpao (i.e., the dragon robes).
• Round collared robe, from the Tomb of Emperor Wanli, Ming dynasty
  Round collared robe, from the Tomb of Emperor Wanli, Ming dynasty
• Yuanlingshan artefact
  Yuanlingshan artefact

Qing dynasty

During the Qing dynasty, the Manchu rulers enforced the policy along with 10 exemptions. Among the exempted people were the Han Chinese women, who were allowed to continue wearing the Ming-style , and on-stage theatre performers. While was worn in the dominant sphere of society - ritual and official locations, continued to be worn in the subordinate societal sphere, such as in women's quarters and theatres.

• File:六十七代衍聖公 繼配葉夫人衣冠像.jpg
• File:六十九代衍聖公 元配王夫人衣冠像.jpg
• Yuanlingpao (court robe), Qing dynasty, 19th century.
  Yuanlingpao (court robe), Qing dynasty, 19th century
• A woman's wedding yuanlingshan, closes with buttons on the right side.
  A woman's wedding yuanlingshan, also known as , closes with buttons on the right side. It was typically worn together with a skirt known as .
• A child's yuanlingpao, 19th century
  A child's yuanlingpao, 19th century
• Hong Xiuquan's silk Dragon robe
  Hong Xiuquan's silk Dragon robe

Wedding garment

The of officials and nobles also served as a form of wedding attire for commoners. The groom wears a type of headwear known as and a of a 9th-rank official. The bride wears a type of headwear known as and a red or with a of a noblewoman.

Influence and derivatives

Korea

Dallyeong

File:Museum of Traditional Korean Music 124.JPG

Three from the Museum of Traditional Korean Music, Korea

In Korea, the was introduced during the Tang dynasty and became known as the (Korean: ; Hanja: ; RR: ; ). During the rule of Queen Jindeok of Silla, Kim Chunchu personally travelled to the Tang dynasty to request for clothing and belts and voluntarily accepted the official uniform system of the Tang dynasty, which included the among many other clothing items. Since then, the continued to be worn until the end of Joseon. In the late Goryeo period, under the reign of King U, the was adopted as an official when the official uniform system of the Ming dynasty was imported.

Wonsam

The initial shape of the worn by women from the 15th to 16th century was similar to the and included the use of a collar which was similar to the -style collar.

Japan

In Japan, the formal court attire for men and women was established by the start of the 8th century and was based on the court attire of the Tang dynasty. The round collared robe called in the , which was worn by the Japanese Emperors, and the noblemen, was adopted from the .

According to the Ming dynasty's Government letter against Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Ming Government bestowed on him a set of () containing a red with mandarin square (), a dark blue (), and a green ().

Vietnam

Áo viên lĩnh

According to the book Weaving a realm by the Vietnam Center, the (Template:Lang-vi-hantu), a 4-long flap robe with a round neck, was imported to Vietnam from China. However, this fashion gradually faded away from their daily lives due to the clothing reforms decreed by the Nguyen lords.

• Men wearing Script error: No such module "Lang"., painting from The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains, 1363
  Men wearing , painting from The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains, 1363
• Script error: No such module "Lang". of Vietnamese people in Đàng Trong, 1675
  of Vietnamese people in Đàng Trong, 1675
• Script error: No such module "Lang". in the Lê dynasty
  in the Lê dynasty

See also

• List of

External links

• Yuanlingpao decorated Central Asian roundels as partial decorations
• Weaving a realm