Gasherbrum IV
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Template:Short description Template:Use dmy Template:Infobox mountain Template:Chinese Gasherbrum IV (Template:Langx; Template:Zh), surveyed as K3, is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan, as well as the highest independent mountain under eight thousand metres in Pakistan.
One of the peaks in the Gasherbrum massif, its immense West Face looms over the glacial junction of Concordia. The Name "Gasherbrum" is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to this face's tendency to reflect the rays of the setting sun, but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) and "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."[1]
Despite its lower height relative to the surrounding eight-thousanders, Gasherbrum IV is a venerated challenge among mountaineers.[2]
Notable ascents and attempts
| Year | Climbers | Summited? | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1958 | Template:Flagicon Walter Bonatti Template:Flagicon Carlo Mauri |
Yes | First ascent on an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin via the Northeast Ridge and the North Summit. Traversing the pinnacled ridge to the main summit was considered the crux of the climb.[3] |
| 1980 | Template:Flagicon Craig McKibben Template:Flagicon Steve Swenson |
No | First attempt of ascent via the East Face was unsuccessful due to weather conditions.[4] |
| 1985 | Template:Flagicon Wojciech Kurtyka Template:Flagicon Robert Schauer |
No | First ascent of the 2,500 m high West Face. Bad weather, depletion of food and fuel, and extreme exhaustion forced them to stop at the north summit. The climb was called the "most remarkable alpine-style ascent of the 20th century" and cited in support of Kurtyka's 2016 Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award.[3][5] |
| 1986 | Template:Flagicon Greg Child Template:Flagicon Tim Macartney-Snape Template:Flagicon Tom Hargis |
Yes | First ascent of the Northwest Ridge, involving an open bivouac on the north summit. This was the second ascent of Gasherbrum IV.[3][6] |
| 1993 | Template:Flagicon Yasushi Yamanoi | No | Unsuccessful ascent attempt via the East Face.[4] |
| 1995 | Template:Flagicon Miroslav "Slavko" Svetičič | No | Died while attempting a solo climb of the West Face.[7] |
| 1996 | Template:Flagicon Kim Chang-ho Template:Flagicon Lim Saeng-muk |
No | Attempted to summit via the East Face. Climb was abandoned after reaching about 7,400 m due to avalanche warning.[4] |
| 1997 | Template:Flagicon Bang Jung-ho Template:Flagicon Kim Tong-kwan Template:Flagicon Yoo Huk-jae |
Yes | First complete ascent via the West Face by a Korean team, via the central spur. Reached the summit after a sieged ascent quoted as 5.10 A3.[3] |
| 1999 | Template:Flagicon Kang Yeon-ryong Template:Flagicon Yun Chi-won |
Yes | Second ascent of the Northwest Ridge as part of a 13-member Korean team.[3] |
| 2008 | Template:Flagicon Alberto Iñurrategi Template:Flagicon Juan Vallejo Template:Flagicon José Carlos Tamayo Template:Flagicon Mikel Zabalza Template:Flagicon Ferran Latorre |
No | Third ascent of the Northwest Ridge by a Spanish team. Did not reach the main summit, stopped at a minor peak a short distance from the true summit.[8][9] |
| 2012 | Template:Flagicon French Expedition | No | Attempting a summit of the "Shining Wall" on the West Face was abandoned mid-route due to an avalanche.[10] |
| 2016 | Template:Flagicon Aleš Česen Template:Flagicon Luka Lindič |
Yes (North Summit) | Reached the North Summit via the Northwest Ridge on July 26th. Intended to summit via the West Face, but weather conditions and heavy snow altered their route. This was the fourth successful summit of the Northwest Ridge.[11][12] |
| 2018 | Template:Flagicon David Göttler Template:Flagicon Hervé Barmasse |
No | Expedition to climb the Southwest Face was abandoned midway due to poor weather.[13] |
| 2018 | Template:Flagicon Oriol Baro Template:Flagicon Roger Cararach Template:Flagicon Iker Madoz Template:Flagicon Marc Toralles |
No | Spanish expedition abandoned their summit attempt due to bad weather. Planned to reach the summit via the still unclimbed South Pillar.[13] |
| 2018 | Template:Flagicon Italian Expedition | No | Aimed to replicate the first ascent by Italians Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri on the sixtieth anniversary. Ended in tragedy as Maurizio Giordano was hit by falling ice and killed on the descent.[13] |
| 2023 | Template:Flagicon Sergey Nilov Template:Flagicon Dmitry Golovchenko |
No | Expedition via a completely unknown route up the southeast ridge ended in tragedy as Golovchenko was lost in a fall.[14] |
| 2024 | Template:Flagicon Sergey Nilov Template:Flagicon Mikhail Mironov Template:Flagicon Sergei Mironov |
No | Attempt to recover Golovchenko's body ended tragically as a serac fell on the team. Expedition leader Sergei Nilov was reported missing and climbers Mikhail and Sergei Mironov were injured.[15] |
See also
References
- ↑ Template:Cite aaj
- ↑ Template:Cite aaj
- ↑ a b c d e Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
- ↑ a b c Template:Cite aaj
- ↑ "Piolets d’Or update!" Climber Magazine. [1]
- ↑ Template:Cite aaj
- ↑ Template:Cite aaj
- ↑ Carbonell, Rafael. "Oro en el Himalaya." El País, 8 August 2008. [2]
- ↑ "mounteverest.net - Interview with Juan Vallejo, member of the Spanish team." [3]
- ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
- ↑ "Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview." PlanetMountain.com. [4]
- ↑ Gripped. "Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic Make Fourth Ascent of Gasherbrum IV Route." 31 July 2016. [5]
- ↑ a b c Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
- ↑ Bernardi, Federico. "A Climber We Lost: Dmitry Golovchenko." Climbing, 10 January 2024. [6]
- ↑ Benavides, Angela. "Another Tragedy on Gasherbrum IV: Nilov Presumed Dead, Two Injured, Call for Help." Explorersweb, 18 August 2024. [7]
- ↑ Jerzy Wala, The Eight-Thousand Metre Peaks of the Karakoram (orographical sketch map, revised), Kraków, Poland, 1994