Eight-thousander

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Template:Short description Template:Use dmy dates

File:Eight Thousanders Map.png
Locations of the world's 14 eight-thousanders, which are split between the Himalayan (right, including Nanga Parbat, left), and the Karakoram mountain ranges (left)

The eight-thousanders are 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) with summits that exceed Script error: No such module "convert". in elevation above sea level and are sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks as measured by topographic prominence. There is no formally agreed-upon definition of prominence, however, and at times the UIAA has considered whether the list of 8,000-metre peaks should be expanded to 20 peaks by including the major satellite peaks of the canonical 14 eight-thousanders. All of the Earth's eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone, where atmospheric oxygen pressure is insufficient to sustain human life for extended periods of time.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were first summited by expedition climbers in the summer season (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964); from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter season (the first to be summited in winter was Mount Everest in 1980, and the last was K2 in 2021). As measured by a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I, with one death (climber or climber support) for every three summiters, followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (each with one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (each with one death for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer, became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, though with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho set a speed record by climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.

Climbing history

First ascents

File:Flight over himalaya annotated.jpg
Flight over the Khumbu region; six eight-thousanders are visible

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, died in an avalanche.[1]

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.[2] Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended for the first time, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).[3]

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;[4] all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.[5] The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.[6]

Only two climbers have completed the first ascent of more than one eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak, in 1953 and 1957) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri, in 1957 and 1960). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first-ascent of an eight-thousander.[7] The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.[5] Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),[8] while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).[5]

All 14

File:Comparison of highest mountains.svg
Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits
File:30 highest peaks with more than 500m prominence.png
The 30–highest peaks in the world with over Template:Cvt in prominence[9]

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.[5] Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest but on no other eight-thousander[5]).[10]

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.[11] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[12][13]

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Template:Ill on 11 May 2017.[14][15] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.[15][16]

On 22 May 2024, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 30th time (a record for Everest), also becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 41 times.[17] In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.[18] He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.[19]

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen.[20][21][22] On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.[23][24]

Deadliest

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Estimated sample death rates for the 14 eight-thousanders[25][26][27]
Eight
thousander 		From 1950 to March 2012[27] Climber
death rate
[28][29]Template:Efn
Total
ascentsTemplate:Efn 		Total
deathsTemplate:Efn 		Deaths as
% of ascentsTemplate:Efn
Everest 5656 223 3.9% 1.52%
K2 800 96 12% –Template:Efn
Kangchenjunga 243 40 16% 3.00%
Lhotse 461 13 2.8% 1.03%
Makalu 361 31 8.6% 1.63%
Cho Oyu 3138 44 1.4% 0.64%
Dhaulagiri I 448 69 15.4% 2.94%
Manaslu 661 65 9.8% 2.77%
Nanga Parbat 335 68 20.3% –Template:Efn
Annapurna I 191 61 31.9% 4.05%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak) 		334 29 8.7% –Template:Efn
Broad Peak 404 21 5.2% –Template:Efn
Gasherbrum II 930 21 2.3% –Template:Efn
Shishapangma 302 25 8.3%

The eight-thousanders are some of the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate) is high.[30] Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.[31][32]

  • Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of total deathsTemplate:Efn on the mountain to successful climbers summiting over a given period.[31] The Guinness Book of World Records uses this metric to name Annapurna I as the deadliest eight-thousander, and the world's deadliest mountain with roughly one person dying for every three people who successfully summit, i.e. a ratio of circa 30%.[33] Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%).[31] Other statistical sources including MountainIQ, used a mix of data periods from 1900 to Spring 2021 but had similar results showing Annapurna still being the deadliest mountain (27.2%), followed by K2 (22.8%), Nanga Parbat (20.75%), Kangchenjunga (15%), and Dhaulagiri (13.5%).[32][30] Cho Oyu was the safest at 1.4%.[31][32]
  • Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit.[28] In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below).[28] The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat.[28] HDB estimates the probability of death for a climber attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.[28]

The tables from the HDB for eight-thousanders also show that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.[28]

List of first ascents

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

First ascent and first winter ascent for each of the 14 eight-thousanders[25][27]
Mountain[25] First ascent[25] First winter ascent[25]
Name Height[34] Prom.[34] Country Date Summiter(s) Date Summiter(s)
Everest Script error: No such module "convert".[35] Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal
Template:Flagicon China 		29 May 1953Template:Efn
 Template:Flagicon Edmund Hillary

Template:Flagicon Template:Flagicon Tenzing Norgay
on British expeditionTemplate:Efn

17 February 1980
 Template:Flagicon Krzysztof Wielicki
Template:Flagicon Leszek Cichy
K2 Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Pakistan
Template:Flagicon China[36] 		31 July 1954 Template:Flagicon Achille Compagnoni
Template:Flagicon Lino Lacedelli

on Italian expedition

16 January 2021[6] Template:FlagiconTemplate:Flagicon Nirmal PurjaTemplate:Refn

Template:Flagicon Gelje Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Mingma David Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Sona Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Mingma Tenzi Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Pem Chhiri Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Dawa Temba Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Kili Pemba Sherpa
Template:Flagicon Dawa Tenjing Sherpa

Kangchenjunga Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal
Template:Flagicon India[37] 		25 May 1955 Template:Flagicon George Band
Template:Flagicon Joe Brown
on British expedition 		11 January 1986 Template:Flagicon Krzysztof Wielicki
Template:Flagicon Jerzy Kukuczka
Lhotse Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal
Template:Flagicon China 		18 May 1956 Template:Flagicon Fritz Luchsinger
Template:Flagicon Ernst Reiss 		31 December 1988 Template:Flagicon Krzysztof Wielicki
Makalu Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal
Template:Flagicon China 		15 May 1955 Template:Flagicon Jean Couzy
Template:Flagicon Lionel Terray
on French expedition 		9 February 2009 Template:Flagicon Simone Moro
Template:Flagicon Denis Urubko
Cho Oyu Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal
Template:Flagicon China 		19 October 1954 Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Template:Flagicon Pasang Dawa Lama
Template:Flagicon Herbert Tichy 		12 February 1985 Template:Flagicon Maciej Berbeka
Template:Flagicon Maciej Pawlikowski
Dhaulagiri I Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal 13 May 1960 Template:Flagicon Kurt Diemberger
Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Template:Flagicon Nawang Dorje
Template:Flagicon Nima Dorje
Template:Flagicon Ernst Forrer
Template:Flagicon Albin Schelbert 		21 January 1985 Template:Flagicon Andrzej Czok
Template:Flagicon Jerzy Kukuczka
Manaslu Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal 9 May 1956 Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Template:Flagicon Gyalzen Norbu 		12 January 1984 Template:Flagicon Maciej Berbeka
Template:Flagicon Ryszard Gajewski
Nanga Parbat Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Pakistan 3 July 1953 Template:Flagicon Hermann Buhl
on German–Austrian expedition 		26 February 2016 Template:Flagicon Muhammad Ali Sadpara
Template:Flagicon Simone Moro
Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Annapurna I Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Nepal 3 June 1950 Template:Flagicon Maurice Herzog
Template:Flagicon Louis Lachenal

on French expedition

3 February 1987 Template:Flagicon Jerzy Kukuczka
Template:Flagicon Artur Hajzer
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak) 		Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Pakistan
Template:Flagicon China 		5 July 1958 Template:Flagicon Andrew Kauffman
Template:Flagicon Pete Schoening 		9 March 2012 Template:Flagicon Adam Bielecki
Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Broad Peak Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Pakistan
Template:Flagicon China 		9 June 1957 Template:Flagicon Fritz Wintersteller
Template:Flagicon Marcus Schmuck
Template:Flagicon Kurt Diemberger
Template:Flagicon Hermann Buhl
 5 March 2013 Template:Flagicon Maciej Berbeka
Template:Flagicon Adam Bielecki
Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Gasherbrum II Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon Pakistan
Template:Flagicon China 		7 July 1956 Template:Flagicon Fritz Moravec
Template:Flagicon Template:Ill
Template:Flagicon Template:Ill 		2 February 2011 Template:Flagicon Simone Moro
Template:Flagicon Denis Urubko
Template:Flagicon Cory Richards
Shishapangma Script error: No such module "convert". Script error: No such module "convert". Template:Flagicon China 2 May 1964 Template:Flagicon Xu Jing
Template:Flagicon Chang Chun-yen
Template:Flagicon Wang Fuzhou
Template:Flagicon Chen San
Template:Flagicon Cheng Tien-liang
Template:Flagicon Wu Tsung-yue
Template:Flagicon Sodnam Doji
Template:Flagicon Migmar Trashi
Template:Flagicon Doji
Template:Flagicon Yonten 		14 January 2005 Template:Flagicon Piotr Morawski
Template:Flagicon Simone Moro

List of climbers of all 14

Script error: No such module "Multiple image". There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.[38][39]

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,[40] is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas.[41][42] Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,[43] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.[38][39][44]

Verified ascents

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  First person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, and first to do so without supplementary oxygen

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  First female to summit all 14 eight-thousanders; with supplementary oxygen

<templatestyles src="Legend/styles.css" />

  First female to summit all 14 eight-thousanders; no supplementary oxygen

<templatestyles src="Legend/styles.css" />

  Fastest ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders; with supplementary oxygen

<templatestyles src="Legend/styles.css" />

  Fastest ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders; no supplementary oxygen

<templatestyles src="Legend/styles.css" />

  Youngest person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders

<templatestyles src="Legend/styles.css" />

  First disabled person to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders

The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

List of climbers who have summited all 14 eight-thousanders[45]
Order Order
(No O2) 		Name Period climbing
eight-thousanders 		Born Age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970–1986 1944 42 Template:Flagicon Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979–1987 1948 39 Template:Flagicon Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982–1995 1959 36 Template:Flagicon Swiss
4 [46] Carlos Carsolio 1985–1996 1962 33 Template:Flagicon Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980–1996 1950 46 Template:Flagicon Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985–1999 1956 43 Template:Flagicon Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983–2000 1949 51 Template:Flagicon Italian
8 Park Young-seok 1993–2001 1963 38 Template:Flagicon Korean
9 Um Hong-gil 1988–2001 1960[47] 40 Template:Flagicon Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991–2002[48] 1968 33 Template:Flagicon Spanish
11 Han Wang-yong 1994–2003 1966 37 Template:Flagicon Korean
12 5[49] Ed Viesturs 1989–2005 1959 46 Template:Flagicon American
13 6[50][51][52] Silvio Mondinelli 1993–2007 1958 49 Template:Flagicon Italian
14 7[53] Iván Vallejo 1997–2008 1959 49 Template:Flagicon Ecuadorian
15 8[54] Denis Urubko 2000–2009 1973 35 Template:Flagicon Kazakhstani
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990–2009 1961[55] 47 Template:Flagicon German
17[56] 9[57] Veikka Gustafsson 1993–2009 1968 41 Template:Flagicon Finnish
18[58] Andrew Lock 1993–2009 1961[59] 48 Template:Flagicon Australian
19 10 João Garcia 1993–2010 1967 43 Template:Flagicon Portuguese
20[60] Piotr Pustelnik 1990–2010 1951 58 Template:Flagicon Polish
21[61] Edurne Pasaban 2001–2010 1973 36 Template:Flagicon Spanish
22[62] Abele Blanc 1992–2011[63][64] 1954 56 Template:Flagicon Italian
23 Mingma Sherpa 2000–2011[63] 1978 33 Template:Flagicon Nepali
24 11 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner 1998–2011[63] 1970 40 Template:Flagicon Austrian
25 Template:Ill 2001–2011[63] 1975 36 Template:Flagicon Kazakhstani
26 12 Maxut Zhumayev 2001–2011[63] 1977 34 Template:Flagicon Kazakhstani
27 Template:Ill 2000–2011[63] 1961 50 Template:Flagicon Korean
28[65] 13 Mario Panzeri 1988–2012 1964 48 Template:Flagicon Italian
29[66] Hirotaka Takeuchi [ja] 1995–2012[66] 1971 41 Template:Flagicon Japanese
30 Chhang Dawa Sherpa 2001–2013[63] 1982 30 Template:Flagicon Nepali
31 14 Kim Chang-ho 2005–2013[63] 1970 43 Template:Flagicon Korean
32 Template:Ill 2002–2014[67] 1968 45 Template:Flagicon Spanish
33 15 Radek Jaroš 1998–2014[63] 1964 50 Template:Flagicon Czech
34/35[68] 16/17[68] Nives Meroi 1998–2017[69][70] 1961 55 Template:Flagicon Italian
34/35[68] 16/17[68] Template:Ill 1998–2017[69][70][71] 1962 55 Template:Flagicon Italian / Template:Flagicon Slovenian
36 Template:Ill 1998–2017[72][73][74] 1964 52 Template:Flagicon Slovak
37 18 Azim Gheychisaz 2008–2017[75] 1981 37 Template:Flagicon Iranian
38 Ferran Latorre 1999–2017[76] 1970 46 Template:Flagicon Spanish
39 19 Òscar Cadiach 1984–2017[77] 1952 64 Template:Flagicon Spanish
40 Kim Mi-gon 2000–2018[78][79] 1973 45 Template:Flagicon Korean
41 Sanu Sherpa 2006–2019[80] 1975 44 Template:Flagicon Nepali
42 Nirmal Purja 2014–2019[22][81]Template:Efn 1983 36 Template:FlagiconBritishTemplate:R
43 Mingma Gyabu Sherpa 2010–2019[82][83] 1989 30 Template:Flagicon Nepali
44 Kim Hong-bin 2006–2021[84][85][86] 1964 57 Template:Flagicon Korean
45 Nima Gyalzen Sherpa 2004–2022[87][88] 1985 37 Template:Flagicon Nepali
46 Dong Hong Juan 2015–2023[89][90] 1981 42 Template:Flagicon Chinese
47 Kristin Harila 2021–2023[91][92] 1986 37 Template:Flagicon Norwegian
48 Template:Ill 2012–2023[93][94][95][96] 1968 55 Template:Flagicon Swiss / Template:Flagicon French / Template:Flagicon Canadian
49 Tunç Fındık 2001–2023[95][96] 1972 51 Template:Flagicon Turkish
50 Tenjen Lama Sherpa 2016–2023[23][24][97] 35[98] Template:Flagicon Nepali
51 Gelje Sherpa 2017–2023[99][100][101] 1992[99] 30 Template:Flagicon Nepali
52 Chris Warner 1999–2023[102] 1965 58 Template:Flagicon American
53 20 Marco Camandona 2000–2024[103][104] 1970 54 Template:Flagicon Italian
54 Naoki Ishikawa 2001–4 October 2024[105][106] 1977 47 Template:Flagicon Japanese
54 Tracee Metcalfe 2016–4 October 2024[107][105] 50[107] Template:Flagicon American
54 21 Sirbaz Khan 2017–4 October 2024[108][109][110][105] 1987 37 Template:Flagicon Pakistani
54 Dawa Gyalje Sherpa ?–4 October 2024[105] Template:Flagicon Nepali
54 22 Mingma Gyalje Sherpa ?–4 October 2024[105] Template:Flagicon Nepali
59 23 Template:Ill 1998–9 October 2024[111][112] 1964 60 Template:Flagicon Italian
59 Naoko Watanabe [ja] 2006–9 October 2024[111][113][114] 1981 42 Template:Flagicon Japanese
59 Adrian Laza 2016–9 October 2024[111][115] 1963 60 Template:Flagicon Romanian
59 Pasang Nurbu Sherpa 2016-9 October 2024[111][116][117][118] Template:Flagicon Nepali
59 Shehroze Kashif 2019–9 October 2024[111][119][120][121] 2002 22 Template:Flagicon Pakistani
59 Template:Ill 2021–9 October 2024[111][122][123] Template:Flagicon Polish
59 Adriana Brownlee 2021–9 October 2024[111] 2001 23 Template:Flagicon British
59 Nima Rinji Sherpa 2022–9 October 2024[111][124][125] 2006[126] 18 Template:Flagicon Nepali
59 Alasdair McKenzie 2022–9 October 2024[111] 2004 20 Template:Flagicon French / Template:Flagicon British
59 Alina Pekova 2023–9 October 2024[111][127] Template:Flagicon Russian
59 Ko-Erh Tseng ?–9 October 2024[111] Template:Flagicon Taiwanese
70 Mingtemba Sherpa 2013-2024[128][129] Template:Flagicon Nepali
71 Tejan Gurung 2022-2024[130][131] Template:Flagicon Nepali / Template:Flagicon British
72 Pasang Tendi 2011-2024[132] Template:Flagicon Nepali
73 Uta Ibrahimi 2017-2025 [133][134] 1983 42 Template:Flagicon Kosovo
74 Saško Kedev 2009-2025[135] 1962 63 Template:Flagicon Macedonian
75 Afsane Hesamifard 2021-2025[136] 1976 49 Template:Flagicon Iranian
76 Chhiring Sherpa ?-2025[137] Template:Flagicon Nepali

Disputed ascents

Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).[41][42] The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.[38][39]

Name and details Period climbing
eight-thousanders 		Born Age Nationality
Template:Ill (Lhotse 1997)[138]
His partner Sergio Martini reclimbed Lhotse in 2000 to verify his 14, see above.Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters". 		1983–1998 1952 46 Template:Flagicon Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[139][140]
Hinkes rejected Hawley's decision to "unrecognise" his ascent, see "Cho Oyu dispute".Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters". 		1987–2005 1954 53 Template:Flagicon British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) 2000, Broad Peak 1995[141][142])[143][144]
As he did not claim the main summit of Shishapangma, this status is unlikely to change.Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters". 		1993–2004
(deceased) 		1953 49 Template:Flagicon Ukrainian
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)[145][146][147]
As the potential first female climber of all 14, this dispute was followed internationally.Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters".[146] 		1997–2010 1966 44 Template:Flagicon Korean
Template:Ill (Shishapangma 2012)[148]
Pauner acknowledged his uncertainty as it was dark; said he might reclimb.Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters".[149] 		2001–2013 1963 50 Template:Flagicon Spanish
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)[150][151][152]
Suspected the 2018 Chinese Shishapangma expedition stopped at central summit.Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters". 		2000–2018 1964 54 Template:Flagicon Chinese

Verification issues

A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.[38][39]

Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak).[153][154] Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge.[38][155] When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.[156][38]

In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".[38] In June 2021, Australian climber Damien Gildea wrote an article in the American Alpine Journal on the work that Jurgalski and a team of international experts were doing in this area, including publishing detailed surveys of the problem summits using data from the German Aerospace Center.[39]

In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, and Thaneswar Guragai).[157][158] According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so.[157] Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen.[157] Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect.[157] The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".[157]

Proposed expansion

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest.[159] To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander.[160] See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousanders.

In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new Template:Cvt-plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition.[160] The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above Template:Cvt, but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of Template:Cvt (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at Script error: No such module "convert".).[161][162] Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of Script error: No such module "convert"., would even meet the Script error: No such module "convert". prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.[161] The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of Template:Cvt,Template:Efn amongst other criteria; the logic being that if Template:Cvt worked for Template:Cvt summits, then Template:Cvt is proportional for Template:Cvt summits.[163]

since April 2024Template:Dated maintenance category (articles)Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters"., there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

<templatestyles src="Legend/styles.css" />

  Proposed to the UIAA in 2012 for reclassification as standalone eight-thousanders.[160]
List of the subsidiary peaks of the 14 eight-thousanders[164]
Proposed new eight-thousander Height
(m) 		Prominence
(m) 		Dominance
(Prom / Height)
as a %[165] 		Dominance
classification[165]
Broad Peak Central 8011 181 2.26 B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang) 8505 135 1.59 C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak 8476 116 1.37 C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak 8473 63 0.74 C2
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle) 8410 65 0.77 C2
Lhotse Shar 8382 72 0.86 C2
K 2 SW-Peak 8580 30 0.35 D1
Lhotse C-Peak II 8372 37 0.44 D1
Everest W-Peak 8296 30 0.36 D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder 8077 40 0.49 D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak 8150 30 0.37 D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge) 8134 35 0.43 D1
Annapurna C-Peak 8013 49 0.61 D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak 8042 30 0.37 D1
Annapurna E-Peak 7986 65 0.81 C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak 8008 30 0.37 D1
Everest NE-Shoulder 8423 19 0.23 D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III 8383 13 0.16 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III 8327 10 0.12 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II 8307 12 0.14 D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I 8290 10 0.12 D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II 8282 25 0.30 D2

Gallery

See also

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Notes

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References

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  5. ↑ a b c d e Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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  8. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  9. ↑ PEAKBAGGER: World 7200-meter Peaks (Ranked Peaks have 500 meters of Clean Prominence)
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  41. ↑ a b If a mountaineer wants worldwide recognition that they have reached the summit of some of the most formidable mountains in the world, they will need to get the approval of Elizabeth Hawley.Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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  68. ↑ a b c d Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position
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  147. ↑ What would appear to be the most serious blow to Miss Oh, on 26 August this year the Korean Alpine Federation, the nation's largest climbing association, concluded that Miss Oh had not reached the top of Kangchenjunga.Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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  153. ↑ I have summited Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season. Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest, not the summit because they know this is what will be asked.Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  154. ↑ Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they’ve reached the top, unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal.Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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  157. ↑ a b c d e Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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  159. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".Template:Cbignore
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  165. ↑ a b Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".

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External links

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