Andrzej Zawada

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Template:Short description Template:Infobox mountaineer

Andrzej Zawada (born Maria Andrzej Zawada; 16 July 1928 – 21 August 2000) was a Polish mountaineer, expedition leader and pioneer of winter Himalayism. Zawada was an organiser and leader of numerous high-mountains expeditions, author of movies and photographs from expeditions, and co-author of Alpinist books. He was an honorary member of the British Alpine Club, French Template:Ill and The Explorers Club in the United States.

He was a grandson of Tomasz Rawicz-Zawada, a young participant of January Uprising in 1863, and son of Template:Ill, Polish legionnaire and consul.

Geophysics

Zawada studied physics and geophysics in Wrocław and Warsaw where he received a degree in seismology. From 1955–1993 he worked at the Institute of Geophysics of the Polish Academy of Sciences.

In 1956 the geophysicist Roman Teisseyre asked Zawada to join him on a Polish scientific expedition to Vietnam, as part of the International Geophysical Year (1957–58). The team also included Krzysztof Haman, Zawada acted as the expedition's film-maker.[1] That led to an invitation to join the Polish Research Expedition to Spitsbergen, 1957-1958 which was based at the newly established Polish Polar Station, Hornsund.[2]

Selected expeditions

  • In 1959, he was part of the expedition team with Kazimierz Olech who made the first successful winter crossing of the main ridge of Tatra Mountains, which took 19 days.
  • In 1971, as chief he led the Polish expedition to make the first ascent to the Khunyang Chhish (Script error: No such module "convert".) in the Karakoram. He also reached the summit.[3]
  • With Tadeusz Piotrowski he made the first winter ascent of Noshaq (Script error: No such module "convert".) in the Hindu Kush (13 February 1973). It was the world's first winter climb above Script error: No such module "convert"..
  • On 25 December 1974, Zawada became the first man in the world to exceed a height of Script error: No such module "convert". in the winter, alongside Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, by reaching a height of Script error: No such module "convert". on Lhotse.[4]
  • In 1977, Zawada made the first crossing of the Script error: No such module "convert". north wall of Koh-i Mandaras (Script error: No such module "convert".).
  • In February 1980, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy made the first winter ascent of Mount Everest (Script error: No such module "convert".), the highest mountain on Earth. Zawada led the expedition. It was the first winter ascent of a peak above 8,000 m.[5][6]
  • In May 1980, Zawada led an expedition of Everest with Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka and ascended a new route.[7][6][8]
  • In February 1985 Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski made the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu. It is the only winter ascent on an eight-thousander using a new route. Zawada led the expedition.[9]
  • On December 31, 1988 Zawada led the expedition where Krzysztof Wielicki made the first successful winter ascent of Lhotse.[10]

Books

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References

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External links

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