Dhoti

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File:An Indian dancer in dhoti, wrapped around his waist.jpg
A Dogra dancer wears a dhoti, at a theatre in Jammu.

The dhoti is an ankle-length breechcloth,[1] wrapped around the waist and the legs, in resemblance to the shape of trousers.[2][3][4] The dhoti is a garment of ethnic wear for men in the Indian subcontinent.[5][6] The dhoti is fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, of usually around Script error: No such module "convert". in length.[7][8]

File:Anonymous - Four Recruits in White Dhotis, page from the Fraser Album - 1981.247 - Art Institute of Chicago.jpg
An illustration of dhoti-clad recruits in the British Indian Army.

The dhoti is the male counterpart of the sari, worn by females to religious and secular ceremonies (functions).[9][10][11] A Script error: No such module "lang". is a yellow silk dhoti worn on auspicious occasions.[12][13] Dhotis must not be confused with "readymade panchakachams"[14] or "dhoti pants", which are a new ready to wear trend, popular among women and typical of children.[15][16][17] Although the terms mundu or veshti are used interchangeably with "dhoti",[18] they are different from the dhoti, which is "looped" or wrapped around the legs, in the form of trousers or pants.[19] The dhoti is better known as panchakacham in South India, which may even be worn while doing dances such as the moonwalk.[20]

Etymology

The unstitched dhoti is also referred to as "dhautra" (IPA: /dʱɑwtrɐ/) in Sanskrit, which means rope or cord. It evolved from the ancient antriya, which was passed in between the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then flowed into long pleats at front of the legs, the same way it is worn today as formal dhoti.[21]Template:Rp While a casual and short dhoti wraps around both legs firmly, in this style the back side of the dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs. This style is more commonly worn by farmers and martial artists.[22][23] Stitched garments became popular in the Indian subcontinent, with the coming of Persians, Greeks, and "barbarians"; nonetheless, the dhoti prevailed in sakaccha as well as vikaccha forms.[24]

History

File:Indian Relief of Ashoka, circa 1st century BC, from the Amaravathi village, Guntur district, Andhra Pradesh (India), in the Guimet Museum (Paris).jpg
Ashoka of the Mauryan Empire depicted on the Amaravati Stupa, 1st century CE.

The dhoti originated from the ancient antariya, which was passed in between the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then flowed into long pleats at front of the legs, the same way it is worn today as formal dhoti.[25]   A l and short dhoti wraps around both legs firmly, in this style the back side of the dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs. According to G. S. Ghurye, this style is more commonly worn by farmers and martial artists.[25][26]

The earliest epigraphical depictions of the Dhoti were during the Mauryan Empire. In the Sunga period, there were two broad modes of wearing the dhoti, the sakaccha and the vikaccha.[27] Stitched garments became popular in the Indian subcontinent, with the coming of Persians, Greeks, and "barbarians"; nonetheless, the dhoti prevailed in sakaccha as well as vikaccha forms.[28] In the sakaccha way, the cloth passed between the legs and was tucked at the back; vikaccha meant wearing the dhoti similar to a lungi.[29]

File:Gandhi Salt March.jpg
M K Gandhi in 1935

During British rule in colonial India, the dhoti remained a national symbol of resistance and cultural identity when worn without a shirt.[30][31][32] At the height of the Indian Independence Movement, weaving khadi was a symbol of the swadeshi movement.[33] In 1921, Gandhi championed the dhoti, often topless (without a kurta or shirt), to promote and identify with the handicrafts produced by the rural and the poor of his homeland.[34][35]

Names

File:In Welcome of Buddha - ACCN 34-2542 - Government Museum - Mathura 2013-02-24 5941.JPG
Relief depicting men in anatariya and uttariya, 1st century CE
File:A Manipuri Dancer in traditional Krishna attire.jpg
A Manipuri dancer dressed as Krishna in yellow dhoti
File:Shad Suk Mysiem.JPG
Khasi folk dancers wearing "Jaiñboh" dhotis and other ethnic garb

The garment is known by various names based on language, such as:

Native script Transliteration Language or region
চুৰিয়া, ধুতি Suriya, Dhuti Assamese
ধুতি Dhuti Bengali
ધૉતિયુ Dhotiyu Gujarati
धोती Dhotī Hindi, Maithili, Nepali and Pali
मर्दानी Mardānī Hindi
ಧೋತ್ರ
ಕಚ್ಚೆ ಪಂಚೆ 		Dhotra
Kachche Panche 		Kannada
धोंतर,
आंगोस्तर,
आड नेसचे,
पुडवे
Dhontar,
Āṅgostara,
Āḍa nesace
Puḍave 		Konkani
മുണ്ട് Muṇṭ‌ Malayalam
धोतर Dhotar a Marathi
ଧୋତି Dhotī Odia
ਚਾਦਰਾ Chaadar Punjabi
வேட்டி Vaetti Tamil
పంచె, ధోవతి Script error: No such module "lang". Telugu
Script error: No such module "Lang". Dhoti Urdu
a In Marathi, a dhotar is not the same as a pancha (plural panche).
While the former is worn around the waist, the latter is normally a towel used after bathing (compare below).Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters".

Custom and usage

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The pancha is worn by many conservative Jain men when they visit derasars or basadis for puja, as unstitched clothing is believed to be "less permeable to pollution" and therefore more appropriate for religious rituals than other garments.[36] They also wear a loose and unstitched cloth, shorter than the pancha on top.

File:Water pump, Varanasi (15563170660) Cropped.jpg
A Benaresi man in dhoti with a Central Asian kurta, in Uttar Pradesh.

The International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), known for its distinctive dress code, prompts Western adherents to wear pancha, usually of saffron or white cloth folded in ethnic Bengali style. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi was known for wearing a white silk dhoti.[37] Traditionally, men wear the dhoti topless (without upper garments) while entering certain mandirs (Hindu temples) in South India, as stitched garments supposedly counter the energy of the idol.[38][39][40][41] The dhoti is often worn with a shirt in other places.[42]

The dhoti was also worn by Sikhs in the Punjab region etc. Wearing Dhotis was discouraged during the Punjab Subah Movement due to the inter-communal tensions prevalent at the time.[43][44] The dhothi was also worn by South Canarese Christian men to their pre-nuptial ceremonies, church weddings & receptions until the 1960s;[45] after which they fell out of favour, since then, grooms have been styling the black suit and tie instead.

File:A Rajasthani farmer in dhoti and traditional head dress.jpg
A man in dhoti paired with a short kurta in Rajasthan

There is a distinction between the dhoti and the lungi, a similar garment often worn by people at their homes. The lungi is more casual and comfortable, while the dhoti is considered formal and is sometimes worn by politicians.[46]

Decline

The use of the dhoti an as article of clothing, has declined in comparison to its historical prominence in the Indian subcontinent. However, it is still used in some secular functions and especially in religious settings.[10][11] While the sari is still draped by many women as daily wear, few men know how to wrap the dhoti and use it every day.[47][48] The dhoti has been displaced by the English clothes of the British, in urban areas such as Bombay (Mumbai).[49] Historically, there were variations in the styles of wrapping the dhoti based on castes, as in the case of Bombay's Sonars and the Peshva Brahmins. Therefore, English attire has been described as "caste neutral".[50][51][52] Dhotis are still worn more in rural areas of India.[48] In urban areas, men in dhotis are often perceived as "poor" and discriminated against in places such as shopping malls.[53] Additionally, with the introduction of kurta-pyjama sets from Central Asia, during the Moghal Empire, pyjamas are often worn instead of dhotis as ethnic menswear.[54][55]

Gallery

File:Vellattam of the Bali theyyam 03.jpg
Mundu (dhoti) wearing spectators of theyyam.
File:Kalari Pattu.jpg
Kalaripayattu martial artists wearing the kalari dhoti.
File:Mundu black shirt.jpg
A white mundu paired with a black shirt.
File:ANBU TAMIL INDIAN COSTUME IN VENICE ITALY 1.jpg
A veshti worn with shirt.

See also

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References

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  11. ↑ a b Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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  14. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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  19. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  20. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  21. ↑ Govind Sadashiv Ghurye (1951) Indian Costume
  22. ↑ Indian Costume by Govind Sadashiv Ghurye 1966
  23. ↑ Ancient Indian Costume By Roshen Alkazi 1996
  24. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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Template:Clothing in South Asia Template:Folk costume

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