Vitaly Abalakov
Template:Short description Script error: No such module "infobox".Script error: No such module "Check for unknown parameters".Script error: No such module "Check for clobbered parameters".Template:Wikidata image Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov (Template:Langx) (13 January [O.S. 31 December] 1906 – 26 May 1986[1]) was a Soviet chemical engineer, mountaineer and inventor.
Brother of Yevgeniy Abalakov, another famous alpinist, he made the first Soviet ascent of Lenin Peak in 1934 and two more ascents of this mountain. In 1936 he also made the ascent of Khan Tengri, where he lost several fingers on one arm and one-third of his foot.[2]
In 1938, he and others from his team were arrested by NKVD and were under investigation until 1940. He was accused of "open public propaganda" of western mountaineering techniques and "diminishing" domestic alpinists' achievements and being a "German spy".[3]
Abalakov is credited with such inventions as camming devices in the 1930s, Abalakov thread (or V-thread), gearless ice climbing anchor, and many other climbing equipment innovations.[4][5]
Awards
- Order of Lenin (1957)
- Order of the Badge of Honour (1972)
- Honoured Master of Sports of the USSR (1943)
- Honoured Trainer of the USSR (1961)
See also
Bibliography
References
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- 1906 births
- 1986 deaths
- People from Krasnoyarsk
- People from Yeniseysk Governorate
- Soviet chemical engineers
- Russian inventors
- Soviet inventors
- 20th-century engineers
- Soviet explorers
- Soviet mountain climbers
- 20th-century Russian explorers
- Spartak (sports society) sportspeople
- D. Mendeleev University of Chemical Technology of Russia alumni
- Honoured Masters of Sport of the USSR
- Recipients of the Order of Lenin
- Recipients of the Order of the Badge of Honour
- Recipients of the Order of Friendship of Peoples
- Burials at Kuntsevo Cemetery