Tatami iwashi
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Tatami iwashi (Script error: No such module "Lang".) or tatami shirasu (Script error: No such module "Lang".)[1][2] is a Japanese processed food by drying baby sardines or anchovies (called shirasu, Script error: No such module "Lang".) into rectangular sheets.[3][4][5]Template:Refn
They tatami iwashi can be enjoyed by first lightly toasting the sheet.[3][6][7][8] It is a well-known snack (sake-no-sakana) eaten as accompaniment to sake or beer drinking.[9] as well as a local specialty of the coastal areas of Shizuoka Prefecture and Kanagawa Prefecture (Ōiso).[9][10][11]
Etymology
This food item is named for its resemblance to a straw tatami mat common in traditional Japanese-style rooms or houses, according to one theory.[12] An alternate explanation is that the product was made by drying out on sunoko made of the common rush (Template:Translit), which is the same fiber that tatami mats are woven from.[12][6]
Manufacture
The shirasu (juvenile anchoviesTemplate:Refn) to be used are selected, so that fresh, medium-thin and less fatty fry about Script error: No such module "convert". are selected.[6]
The raw shirasu get laid out thinly on the sieve screen lining of their framed molds[3]Template:Refn (while submerged in water tanks[2][6]) and after the moisture drips off to retain shape, the semi-dried sheets are laid out an unrolled rush mat (sudare) and sun-dried (or placed through various mechanical means of dryingTemplate:Refn [6][4]), peeling them off once well-dried.[3]
The process is evocative of traditional Japanese paper-making,[9] and similar to that craft, laying the small fish evenly on the sieve requires mastery of technique.[6]
If the fish are not of paramount freshness, they fish will sag and the sheets flatten, and will not form the textured sheets characteristic of prime-quality tatami iwashi.[6] Also attempting to press pre-cooked kamaage shirasu (aka Template:Illm into sheets will not work.[6]
Formerly these were made A4 paper size,Template:Efn but nowadays they are mostly postcard-sized.[6]Template:Refn
Uses
Since the ordinary tatami iwashi is not flavored, toasting the sheet[8] over a flame (or in a toaster oven[6]) and sprinkling some soy sauce is a standard way to enjoy it.[3][7]Template:Refn
The tatami iwashi may be refrigerated or otherwise cooled for longer shelf-life.[6]。
According to the Template:Illm for the year 2010, tatami iwashi contains 75% protein.[13]
Japan's Template:Illm has categorized tatatmi iwashi as "processed seafoods".[14]
A 2022 survey by Japan's Template:Illm from randomly selected pool of citizens 1 year or older found that the Japanese consumed on average 0.977g of shirasu per day, versus only 0.001g of tatami iwashi during the month of November.[15]
History
The haikai literary theory work Template:Illm completed 1638 (published 1645) mentions the tatami iwashi as a specialty product of Iyo Province (now Ehime Prefecture) which used fish netted locally in Uwajima.[16][17][18]Template:Refn
The culinary work Template:Illm of 1643 also writes that tatami iwashi is good for sakana (drinking snack)Template:RefnTemplate:Refn[19]
Another culinary work Template:Illm written Template:C. 1729 by Kaga Domain kitchen official Script error: No such module "Nihongo". describes the tatami iwashi as a product made by placing baby anchovies about 1 inch (1 sun) in length into molds about 5 to 6 inches square, then drying them out into rectangles like funori (Gloiopeltis) seaweed. That when it is browned after flaming it, it makes excellent snack for drinking.Template:Refn The author remarks this type product was recently becoming available in the area near him (i.e., the vicinity of Kanazawa in present-day Ishikawa Prefecture).[18]
The Script error: No such module "Nihongo". of 1789 records that tatami iwashi was given as New Year's tribute to the shogunate by the Ueda Domain of Shinano.[20]Template:Efn
The Script error: No such module "Nihongo". (early 19th cent.) states, under the category of dried food cooking, that thte tatami iwashi is the dry form of fish called shirasu,[21] and the same book also mentioned tatami sayori (halfbeak) and tatami hishiko (alias for anchovies).[18] Around the same period, the comedic work Tōkaidōchū Hizakurige included an episode in Template:Illm, Suruga Province where there is spoken the line "By the way, what is this soup? Is it tatami iwashi done Template:Illm style?".[21]
Scholar Ono Ranzan's 1847 revised edition of the Script error: No such module "Nihongo". writes that "[the fish] fashioned into thin sheets and dried are called shirasu-boshi or tatami iwashi in Edo.".[21]
In the late Edo Period, a ranking of okazu dishes entitled Script error: No such module "Nihongo". was published with Template:Illm ranked ōzeki champion and tatami iwashi ranked near the upper echelon as maegashira 3-maime.[22]。
The production of tatatmi iwashi increased greatly starting in the Meiji Period after the shogunate.[6] Although they were first being made around the country for self-consumption, dedicated specialist manufacturers began to appear in coastal Kanagawa Prefecture from Shōnan to the Miura Peninsula, leading to further large-scale production around the Template:Illm of Shizuoka and in Kanagawa.[6]
In 1874, Tokyo Prefecture issued a memoranda to the head of each ward dictating the limits to the amount of food that can be brought in for prisoners, so that only up to 50 sheets of tatami iwashi were allowed.[23]。
Template:Illm's 1905 title Script error: No such module "Nihongo". writes that tatami iwashi are commonly eaten by brushing with soy sauce and roasting, or by immersing in water for 2, 3 days until softened then using it in soups.[24]
Offerings of it has been made to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangū since olden times.[10]Script error: No such module "Unsubst".Template:Better source
Mentions by notable people
Template:Illm, who was daughter-in-law to Bakin and acted as scribe for his diary, continued to writer her own diary in the 1850s entitled Script error: No such module "Nihongo".. The tatami iwashi appears twice on the menu during 5 years of meal-taking.[25]
Novelist Jun'ichirō Tanizaki in the 1934 work Script error: No such module "Nihongo". wrote "I see the reason why [Tokyo]'s specialty dishes are such things as funa-no-suzumeyaki (crucian carp grilled), Asakusa nori, and tatami iwashi. Before the Earthquake, Tokyo was said to be a village not a city, and evens still now after the Quake, it is still a countrified place, in a way". The Chines prose writer Zhou Zuoren who had studied abroad in Japan for some years read this remark and gave his opinion that "Jun'ichirō Tanizaki clarified the frailty, poverty, lack of affluence, and shabbiness of the foods of Tokyo".[26]
Works that mention
- Natsume Sōseki's Template:Illm (1909 essay collection) includes the piece Script error: No such module "Nihongo". in which scene, chrysanthemum flowers pressed into a thin wafer is eaten as "shōjin-style tatami iwashi".
- Shūsei Tokuda's 1911 novel Template:Illm ("Mold")
- Mori Ōgai's 1816 biographical novel Template:Illm where the title character is described as having a liking for tatami iwashi
- Osamu Dazai's 1948 novel No Longer Human: "I didn't answer bu picked up a sheet of dried sardines, looked into the silver eyes of the little fish and felt a wave of drunken nostalgia.."[27][21]
- Template:Illm's manga series Template:Illm ran from 1995 to 2000.
See also
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Explanatory notes
References
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- ↑ Template:Harvp, Table 2. iwashi cuisine of Edo Period
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