Kolhapuri chappal
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Kolhapuri chappals or Kolhapuris are Indian decorative hand-crafted and braided leather slippers that are locally tanned using vegetable dyes. They are a style of open-toed, T-strap sandal; braided leather Mules or braided leather shoe type designs are also common.
History
The origin of Kolhapuri chappals dates back to the 12th century when King Bijjala and his prime minister Basavanna encouraged Kolhapuri chappal production to support local cordwainers.Script error: No such module "Unsubst". According to historic records, Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century. Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri, the name indicated the village where they were made.[1]
Shahu I of Kolhapur (and his successor Rajaram II) encouraged the Kolhapuri chappal industry and 29 tanning centres were opened during his reign.[2][3]
GI tag
In July 2019, Kolhapuri chappals received a geographical indication tag from the Controller General of Patents, Designs & Trade Marks. These chappals were first made in Kolhapur, but artisans from Karnataka have also been making Kolhapuri chappals for centuries. Districts such as Kolhapur, Sangli, Satara and Solapur districts of Maharashtra as well as Bagalkot, Belgavi, Dharwad and Bijapur district of Karnataka will only be able to carry the tag of "Kolhapuri chappal".[2][4][5]
Production process and market
It can take up to six weeks to make a pair of Kolhapuris.[6] Originally made from buffalo-hide and thread, they weighed as much as 2.01 kilos because of the thickness of the sole, which made them durable despite the extreme heat and mountainous terrain found in the state of Maharashtra.[7]
The manufacture of Kolhapuri chappals involves a series of operations such as skiving, pattern making and cutting, the attachment of upper and bottom heels, stitching, finishing, punching and trimming, decoration and polishing, and assembly.Script error: No such module "Unsubst". Kolhapuri chappals are known to last a lifetime if maintained well and not used in rainy seasons.
In 2020, the total business market was estimated at around Template:INR9 crore, with over 10,000 artisans working in Kolhapur. Of the total six lakh pairs produced annually, 30% were exported.[8] The designs have moved from the ethnic to ones with more utilitarian value and materials from primal hard materials to softer and more comfortable to wear materials. The artisans themselves designed ethnic patterns and sold, but today the traders and businessmen with demand for cheap products drive the requirement of minimalist designs.Script error: No such module "Unsubst".
In recent decades, the business has struggled for survival with market decline, low profits, irregular leather supply, duplicates & fakes, environmental regulations on tanneries, cow slaughter ban, among other issues.[9][10][11][12]
Design and market trends
In the seventies, with the hippie movement, Kolhapuri chappals became popular in the United States. The success faded out and recently came back influencing now models that are called toe ring sandals.[13][14] A French brand called CHAPPAL exports these traditional sandals in various colors and with a feminine design to France to make it popular in that country. [15]
Prada sparked a cultural appropriation controversy after showcasing sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals in its Spring-Summer 2026 Men’s collection, initially describing them merely as "leather sandals" with no mention of their Indian origins. This omission led to backlash from Indian fashion circles and traditional artisans in Maharashtra, who cited a violation of the GI-tagged footwear's heritage. Following public pressure and a formal complaint by the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), Prada acknowledged the sandals’ Indian inspiration and expressed commitment to ethical design, cultural recognition, and possible collaboration with local artisans. The fashion house also clarified that the showcased sandals are still at the design stage and have not been finalized for commercial production.[16]
Gallery
See also
References
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