Hakama

File:Hihakama.JPG

Two wearing

A Japanese woman wearing a hakama with a furisode (formal kimono for young women with long sleeves)

A Japanese woman wearing with a top at Tsurugaoka Hachimangū

File:Shinto Priests (31539867015).jpg

A miko and male priest, both wearing ; note the lack of

are a type of traditional Japanese clothing for the lower body. Kù (Template:Lang-zh) were a style of trousers worn by members of the imperial court in the Sui and Tang China, and were adopted in the late Yamato period as .

are tied at the waist and fall approximately to the ankles. They are often worn over a kimono called a , but can worn over a regular kimono.

There are two types of : , which are trousers with divided legs, and , which is a undivided skirt style. Both of these types appear similar. A "mountain" or "field" type of was traditionally worn by field or forest workers. These are looser in the waist and narrower in the leg.

are secured by four straps (): two longer attached on either side of the front of the garment, and two shorter attached on either side of the rear. The rear of the garment may have a rigid trapezoidal section, called a . Below that on the inside, there may be a (a spoon-shaped component sometimes referred to as a ), which is tucked into the or at the rear and helps to keep the in place.

, especially those for martial arts, may have seven deep pleats, two on the back and five on the front. Although they appear balanced, the arrangement of the front pleats (two to the right, three to the left) is asymmetrical, and as such is an example of asymmetry in Japanese aesthetics.

Historically, a boy would start wearing his first pair of from the age of five, as commemorated in ; a similar practice to this, called "breeching", was seen in Europe up until the Victorian era, where boys would from then on start to wear breeches instead of dresses, as a recognition of coming of age.

Men's

While was once a required part of menswear, contemporary Japanese men typically wear only on extremely formal occasions and at tea ceremonies, weddings, and funerals. are also regularly worn by practitioners of a variety of martial arts, such as kendo, iaido, taidō, aikido, jōdō, ryū-te, and kyūdō. Sumo wrestlers, who do not wear in the context of their sport, are, however, required to wear traditional Japanese dress whenever they appear in public. As are one of the most important parts of traditional male formal dress, sumo wrestlers are often seen wearing when attending appropriately formal functions.

In addition to martial artists, are part of the everyday attire of priests who maintain and perform services at shrines.

A recent trend among young Japanese men is to wear the hakama as casual day wear with a T-shirt.

are worn with any kimono except (a light cotton summer kimono generally worn for relaxing, for sleeping, or at festivals or summer outings). While glossy black-and-white striped are usually worn with formal kimono, stripes in colours other than black, grey and white are worn with less formal wear. Solid and graduated (ombré) colours are also common. For casual wear, men sometimes wear (kimono with just a and no ) or (kimono alone, as for ).

File:MoriokaStudenten.JPG

International students in formal . , some of them ombré

The most formal type of men's , , is made of stiff, striped silk, usually black and white, or black and navy blue. These are worn with black kimono (kimono with one, three, or five family crests on the back, chest, and shoulders), white (divided-toe socks), white (under-kimono) and various types of footwear. In cooler weather, a (long jacket) with a white (-fastener) completes the outfit.

Traditionally made of silk, are sometimes made with blends. is woven with a dense warp. Traditionally, the weft is woven wet and beaten firmly into place to make it denser. The silk strands are not twisted, and are treated with lye. These techniques make the cloth glossy and the pattern very small-scale and precise.

Both and are simultaneously worn with the courtly attire of . The are red underpants with a closed crotch, tied at the wearer's left. The , white and with an open fly, is then worn over the , tied off on the right. These designs can be traced to the Nara period.

and

traditionally formed part of a complete outfit called a . Worn by samurai and courtiers during the Edo period, the outfit included a formal kimono, , and a sleeveless jacket with exaggerated shoulders called a .

Samurai visiting the and other high-ranking at court were sometimes required to wear very long called (Template:Lit). These resemble normal in every way except for their remarkable length in both the front and back, forming a train one or two feet long that impairs normal walking, thereby helping to prevent surprise attacks or assassination attempts. are now only worn particularly in Noh plays (including ), kabuki plays, and Shinto rituals.

Some during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style continued into the Edo period and came to be known as . In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth—looking rather like a pants cuff—sewn around each leg's hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular . This variety of was also commonly known as .

File:Temple Shinto Meiji-jingū à Tokyo J (1).jpg

at Meiji Shrine

, also called , are a type of that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal , and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a "ballooning" effect. To accommodate the required body, the more formal featured six panels rather than four. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes a type of (tied) . The earliest form of was cut like normal and had a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

File:Kikko ko-bakama.jpg

, short trousers with armor sewn cloth of the front side, a type of (armored trousers)

(armoured trousers) had small armour plates or mail armour sewn to the cloth of the . Samurai wore them.

Women's

File:Mariko's Graduation '96.jpg

Women at a graduation ceremony, featuring with embroidered flowers

Women's differ from men's in a variety of ways, most notably fabric design and method of tying.

While men's can be worn on both formal and informal occasions, women rarely wear , except at graduation ceremonies and for traditional Japanese sports such as kyūdō, some branches of aikido and kendo. Women do not wear at tea ceremony. The image of women in kimono and are culturally associated with school teachers. Just as university professors in Western countries don their academic caps and gowns when their students graduate, many female school teachers in Japan attend annual graduation ceremonies in traditional kimono with .

are worn by or shrine maidens who assist in maintenance and ceremonies. A 's uniform consists of a plain white kimono with a bright red , sometimes a red during formal ceremonies. This look stems from the attire worn by high-ranked aristocratic woman in the Heian era, as well as court performers such as .

While formal men's are made of striped fabric, women's formal are either a solid colour or dyed with graduating hues. for young women are sometimes sparsely decorated with embroidered flowers such as cherry blossoms. Women typically wear just below the bust line, while men wear them at the waist.

Dress reform and scholastic use

have traditionally been worn as school wear. Before the advent of school uniforms in Japan, students wore everyday clothes, which included for men. In the Meiji period (1868–1912) and Taishō period (1912–1926), Western-style wear was adopted for school uniforms, initially for both male and female uniforms. However, at the time, Western women's dress was fairly cumbersome.

Utako Shimoda (1854–1936), a women's activist, educator and dress reformer, found traditional kimono to be too restrictive, preventing women and girls from moving and taking part in physical activities, harming their health. While Western dress was being adopted at the time, she also believed corsets to be restrictive and harmful to women's health. Shimoda had worked as a lady-in-waiting to Empress Shōken from 1871 to 1879. She adapted the clothing worn by ladies-in-waiting at the Japanese imperial court to make a uniform for her Jissen Women's School. During the Meiji period and Taishō period, other women's schools also adopted the . It became standard wear for high schools in Japan, and is still worn for graduation ceremonies.

The image of women in is also culturally associated with school teachers. Just as university professors in Western countries don their academic caps and gowns when their students graduate, many female school teachers in Japan attend annual graduation ceremonies in traditional kimono with .

• Shimoda Utako, women's activist, educator and dress reform advocate, in Script error: No such module "lang".
  Shimoda Utako, women's activist, educator and dress reform advocate, in
• A Taishō-era student
  A Taishō-era student
• An imperial princess in Script error: No such module "lang". and Script error: No such module "lang".
  An imperial princess in and
• Wearing Script error: No such module "lang". as reform dress, 1906
  Wearing as reform dress, 1906
• Teacher in 1953
  Teacher in 1953
• Two students (first and third from the left) wearing Script error: No such module "lang". over Script error: No such module "lang". at Waseda University graduation ceremony, 2015
  Two students (first and third from the left) wearing over at Waseda University graduation ceremony, 2015

Tying

File:音曲比翼の番組 小波 力弥-Rikiya and Konami, from the series A Program with Music about Loving Couples (Ongyoku hiyoku no bangumi) MET DP135577.jpg

The front panel is tied first (persons: Rikiya and Konami).

There are many ways for men to tie . First, the is tied in a special knot (an "under- knot") at the rear. Starting with the front, the ties are brought around the waist and crossed over the top of the knot of the . The ties are brought to the front and crossed below the waist, then tied at the back, under the knot of the . The is then tucked behind the , the is adjusted, and the rear ties brought to the front and tied in a variety of ways. The most formal method results in a knot that resembles two bow-ties in a cross shape.

The method of tying the ties is also different, with women's being tied in a simpler knot or a bow. As with men's , the front ties are first brought to the back, then to the front, then tied at the back in a knot. Then the back are brought around to the front. At this point, they may be tied with a bow at the left hip, just in front of the opening, with the ends of the ties at equal lengths. For more secure fastening, the ties may be wrapped once at center front, then tied inside at the back.

Folding

File:Hakama, folded.jpeg

A folded

Like all types of traditional Japanese clothing, it is important to fold and store correctly to prevent damage and prolong the life of the garment, especially those made of silk. With this is particularly important, since have so many pleats which can easily lose their creases; re-creasing the pleats may require specialist attention in extreme cases.

are often considered particularly challenging to learn to fold properly, in part because of their pleats and in part because their long ties must be correctly smoothed and gathered before being tied in specific patterns.

Various martial arts traditions in which practitioners wear them have prescribed methods of folding the . This is often considered an important part of etiquette.

In some martial arts it is also an old tradition that the highest ranking student has the responsibility to fold the teacher's as a token of respect.

See also

• Bloomers
• Harem pants
• Qun

Further reading

• How to fold the Hakama, Southern California Naginata Federation.
• How to tie a Hakama, Bu Jin Design Corporation.
• How to wash a Hakama, Kendo America.