Futou
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Futou (Template:Lang-zh; also Template:Zhp, Template:Zhp and Template:Zhp,[1] was one of the most important forms of Chinese headwear in ancient China with a history of more than one thousand years.[2] The Script error: No such module "lang". first appeared in the Tang and Song dynasties.[3]Template:Rp The Script error: No such module "lang". was typically worn by government officials.[4] The Script error: No such module "lang". was originally turban-like headwear which was tied at the back of its wearer's head, with the two corners going to opposite directions and acting as decorations.[5] From the Sui to the Ming dynasties, the Script error: No such module "lang". evolved and was developed based on the Script error: No such module "lang"..[2] The Script error: No such module "lang". eventually came to assume a variety of shapes and styles.[3]Template:Rp The shape of the Script error: No such module "lang". worn by the government officials in the Song and Ming dynasties, the latter known as the Template:Zhp, was based on the Script error: No such module "lang". of the Tang dynasty.[3]Template:Rp
The Script error: No such module "lang". was also introduced in both Unified Silla and Balhae[6]Template:Rp and continued to be worn by government officials until the late Joseon.[7]Template:Rp The Script error: No such module "lang". with a Script error: No such module "lang". (lining) was also introduced back in the Sogdian areas in Central Asia spreading to the Western regions through the Xinjiang region.[2] The Script error: No such module "lang". with Script error: No such module "lang". was also introduced in Japan during the Nara period through Prince Shōtaku.[2] Đại Cồ Việt was introduced to the Script error: No such module "lang". in the late 10th century and adapted various iterations from the Early Lê to the Nguyễn dynasty.[8]Template:Rp
Terminology
The term Script error: No such module "lang". (or Template:Zhp means "head scarf" or "head-cloth".[3]Template:Rp According to the Script error: No such module "lang". by Bi Zhongxun, the original meaning of Script error: No such module "lang". was to "cover one's head with a black cloth" before the Sui dynasty.[9]
The English term "feet", which is used to describe the hard ribbons used in the Script error: No such module "lang"., is called Template:Zhp).[10]Template:Rp
The Template:Zhp refers to a lining used inside the Script error: No such module "lang".; it began to be used in 614 AD, and its purpose was to make the Script error: No such module "lang". look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.[2]
History
Origins
There are varying opinions on the origins of the Script error: No such module "lang". in the literature. According to Chinese scholar Sun Ji in From Futou to Turban (Template:Zhi), the Script error: No such module "lang". first appeared in the 3rd century AD and was based on the headdress of a northern tribe.[3]Template:Rp
Guzel Maitdinova proposed in 1990 that the Script error: No such module "lang". may have been developed from hats worn in ancient Central Asia and was brought in by the Turks from Sogdiana to Tokharistan to China, based on information provided by Hsen Kuo, an 11th-century Chinese annalist:[11]Template:Rp
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"The Chinese clothes and hats, starting from the time of Northern Qi dynasty represents a barbarian costume".
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It is also proposed by Yatsenko that the Script error: No such module "lang". was part of the Chinese male costume.[11]Template:Rp
Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties
The origins of the Script error: No such module "lang". in China can be traced back to the reign of Emperor Wu in Northern Zhou,[2] who had wrapped his head with a Script error: No such module "lang". with four ribbons, called Template:Zhp) or Template:Zhp); two of those ribbons were tied at the back and left hanging down, while the other two were tied inversely at the top of the head.[10]Template:Rp According to the Script error: No such module "lang"., Emperor Wu created the Script error: No such module "lang". by cutting the Script error: No such module "lang"..[12] According to ancient texts, Emperor Wu created the Script error: No such module "lang". to protect the hair of his generals and soldiers in battles.[9]
The Script error: No such module "lang". first appeared a type of kerchief made by cutting a piece of muslin fabric into the proper size and by attaching four long and wide ribbons at each corner of the fabric like four feet.[10]Template:Rp[2] This Script error: No such module "lang". was large enough to cover all the hair of its wearer,[10]Template:Rp and when it was worn, a kerchief had to be placed on the top of its wearer's head.[2] Two of these ribbons were tied on the forehead while the other two were tied at the back of the wearer's head and was left hanging down.[2][10]Template:Rp Prior to the Sui dynasty, the Script error: No such module "lang". was a black piece of cloth.[9]
Sui, Tang dynasty, and Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period
Tang dynasty
Prior to the Song dynasty, the Script error: No such module "lang". was mostly made of black muslin.[10]Template:Rp In the early Tang, the Script error: No such module "lang". was a Template:Zhp,[13] where all four ribbons were allowed to hang down after being tied.[10]Template:Rp Later on, the early Tang dynasty minister, Ma Zhou, was the first person to use a square kerchief in order to tie a Script error: No such module "lang". and was also the person who added a lining to shape his Script error: No such module "lang". making it more beautiful.[9] The lining which was added to the inside of the Script error: No such module "lang". from the year 614 AD was called Template:Zhp; the Script error: No such module "lang". was used to make the Script error: No such module "lang". look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.[2] After being cut into the desired shape, the Script error: No such module "lang". was painted black with lacquer and would then be covered by the Script error: No such module "lang"..[2] The Script error: No such module "lang". was made with soft and light tung wood and with other materials such as bamboo strips, timbo, miscanthus, silk, and leather.[2] It was also possible to line the Script error: No such module "lang". with a mount-shaped item made out of paulownia (Template:Zhi) in the front.[10]Template:Rp[13] The step-by-step process to wear the Script error: No such module "lang". with Script error: No such module "lang". was to tie the hair up in a topknot, followed by covering the topknot with the Script error: No such module "lang". as hard lining, then wrapping the head and the Script error: No such module "lang". with a black, square-shaped piece of cloth, and finally tying the cloth in the desired style.[9] The Script error: No such module "lang". with Script error: No such module "lang". then became the standard form of Script error: No such module "lang". in the early Tang dynasty.[9] A form of Script error: No such module "lang". with Script error: No such module "lang". was a kerchief with two corners attached with two ribbons in opposite directions of each other; the ribbons would then be tied at the back of the wearer's head, allowing the two back ribbons to hang down freely as a form of decoration.[5] With time, the Script error: No such module "lang". with Script error: No such module "lang". was further developed, and a ribbon was attached to each corner of the turban to make it more decorative; two ribbons were tied on the top of the head while the back ribbons were tied and were allowed to hang down freely.[5] The Script error: No such module "lang". with Script error: No such module "lang". could also have all four ribbons tied at the back of the head and allowed to hang down freely.[9] The Template:Zhp, a Script error: No such module "lang". with a big and forward top Script error: No such module "lang"., was created by Emperor Zhongzong and became prevalent during his reign when he awarded this type of Script error: No such module "lang". to his officials.[2] During the reign of Emperor Xuanzong, the Template:Zhp, a Script error: No such module "lang". with a small and round top jinzi became popular around the year 726 AD.[2] Moreover, by adding wire or silk strings inside the added ribbons, the Script error: No such module "lang". could take different shapes and styles depending on its wearer's liking.[5] However, in the Tang dynasty, only the Emperors could use these hard ribbons; these hard ribbons would be bent upward.[10]Template:Rp The Tang dynasties emperor wore a Script error: No such module "lang". with two upturned tails until the Five dynasties period.[9] The Tang dynasty emperors also wore the Template:Zhp.[9]
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruanjiao putou | A typical type of headwear in the Tang dynasty and was an important precursor to the Script error: No such module "lang". developed in the succeeding dynasties. Sometimes, 2 or 4 narrow and long ribbons were tied to the back of the Script error: No such module "lang". and were allowed to hang down freely down the back of its wearer[3]Template:Rp | File:Tang Emperor Taizong 2.jpg | File:Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, eunuchs.JPG |
| Zheshang jin (Template:Lang-zh), | A type of form of ruanjiao putou which consisted of square-piece of cloth wrap around the head; the two ends of the fabric were then tied at the back at either side of the neck and were then wrapped around the head before being together above the forehead.[3]Template:Rp | File:Figures in a cortege, tomb of Li Xian, Tang Dynasty.jpg | |
| Chuijiao Putou (Template:Lang-zh) | A black hat with two drooped down wing-like flaps. | File:Tangxuanzong.jpg | |
Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period
In the Five dynasties period, more styles of Script error: No such module "lang". were created including the Script error: No such module "lang". with wide feet which looked like fans or banana leaves which surrounded the front of the head; and the Script error: No such module "lang". with curved feet which turned upwards before bending downward.[9]
In the Ma Chu, painted silk was used in the Script error: No such module "lang"..[9] Ma Xifan also wore the horns of a dragon (Template:Zhi), a Script error: No such module "lang". with extremely long feet on both sides.[9]
During the Later Jin, Emperor Liu Min used a Script error: No such module "lang". with long and straight feet which were more than one foot in length; the Song dynasty later kept the tradition of using this style of Script error: No such module "lang". as a standard.[9] It is also attested in the Song Shi that the Script error: No such module "lang". had become straight and flat since the Five dynasties period.[9]
Song dynasty
The Script error: No such module "lang". was popular in the Song dynasty,[5] and it was commonly worn by all classes of people ranging from commoners to emperors. During the Song dynasty, the black muslin, which was mainly used to make the Script error: No such module "lang"., was replaced by other materials, such as muslin or lacquered muslin.[10]Template:Rp The Script error: No such module "lang". could also be found with supports made out of wood, and therefore they could look like hats and caps of various styles.[5] Hard ribbons were also used;[10]Template:Rp and all the Script error: No such module "lang". in this period had hard feet.[9] There were 5 main types of Script error: No such module "lang". in this period: the Script error: No such module "lang". (also called Template:Zhp which was worn by people of all social classes (including both the upper and lower classes[9]); the "bent-feet" Script error: No such module "lang"., the Template:Zhp, the "upward" Script error: No such module "lang"., and the "downwind" Script error: No such module "lang"..[10]Template:Rp
According to the Song Shi, the Script error: No such module "lang". became the national standard form of Script error: No such module "lang". in the Song dynasty for the emperor and the officials on any occasion, except when they had to take a carriage.[9] The Script error: No such module "lang". worn by the Song dynasty officials had an extended reclined feet; it was developed by having two hard ribbons made out with iron wire or bamboo strips attached at the back of the Script error: No such module "lang"..[10]Template:Rp According to the Pedantic Remarks of the Confucians by Yu Yan, this form of Script error: No such module "lang". might have been developed to prevent the officials from whispering to each other during court audience with the Emperor.[10]Template:Rp On some special occasions (e.g. the imperial court banquets, or the longevity ceremonies held for the royal family), Song court officials would put flowers on their Script error: No such module "lang".; this was referred as Flower pinning.[10]Template:Rp The Song emperors would sometimes send fresh flowers or man-made flowers which were exclusive to the use of the imperial court to his courtier; this later become a form of etiquette in the Song dynasty court.[10]Template:RpIt is also recorded in the Song Shi that the upward Script error: No such module "lang". was used by people (including the Emperor and the officials) when they found themselves in narrow spaces, such as in a carriage.[9]
According to the first volume of the History Narrated at Ease in the section The Etiquette by Wang Dechen (1036 –1116), in the early Song dynasty, a type Script error: No such module "lang"., called front-folded scarf, was worn by some people.[10]Template:Rp The front-folded scarf was folded and tied at the front region of the head was worn by some people.[10]Template:Rp The back-folded scarf was a type Script error: No such module "lang". which would be bent backward; it started to be worn after the Shaosheng period (i.e. after 1098 AD).[10]Template:Rp Following the Shaosheng period, there were many changes in the styles of Script error: No such module "lang"..[10]Template:Rp
There were also other forms of Script error: No such module "lang"., such as the colourful flower-shaped Script error: No such module "lang". embedded with gold lines which were sold in market of Dongjing; the curved-feet Script error: No such module "lang". or the flower-like Script error: No such module "lang". with feet curved backwards were also worn by some warriors; the long feet Script error: No such module "lang". was favoured by the musical instrument plays of the imperial music office; the lustreless Script error: No such module "lang"., and the white crêpe Script error: No such module "lang". which was worn during funerals.[10]Template:Rp
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zhanjiao Putou Template:Lang-zh | It consisted of a black hat with two wing-like flaps which extends outward. The thin flaps were stiff and straight, and could extend up to almost a meter each. | File:SongTaizu1.jpg | File:Sima Guang 1.jpg | File:Emperor Yingzong of Song.jpg |
Liao dynasty
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In the Khitan-led Liao dynasty, the Khitans shaved their hair in a style called kunfa and wore light hats made of felt or helmets which were more suitable for their horse riding activities instead of wearing the lacquered Script error: No such module "lang".; however the Script error: No such module "lang". did not disappear in this period and continued to be depicted in the Liao dynasty tomb murals, including the curved leg Script error: No such module "lang"..[9]
Yuan dynasty
Script error: No such module "Labelled list hatnote". In the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty, the Script error: No such module "lang". continued to be worn since the Yuan dynasty court followed the Song dynasty standards regarding official costumes:[9]
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(All officials' work clothes should wear) straight tails painted hemp futou.
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Ming dynasty / "Wushamao" (烏紗帽)
During the Ming dynasty, a type of Script error: No such module "lang". was to be worn by government officials as part of the court uniform, called Template:Zhp.[14] Script error: No such module "lang". resembled the futou used in the early Tang dynasty, but followed the crafting methods of the Song dynasty by using lacquered muslin and wooden or metal frames to cast its shape. The shape of the feet varies depending on the era, with some resembling the curved leaf appearance of the prior dynasties or the straight wing-like feet in the late Ming dynasty.[15][16] The Ming dynasty also kept the tradition of using straight-feet Script error: No such module "lang".; however, by the shape of the Script error: No such module "lang". worn in the Ming dynasty diverted from that worn in the Song dynasty: the feet became shorter with time and some of these Script error: No such module "lang". became less than forty centimetres.[9] The forty centimetre long straight-feet, painted linen Script error: No such module "lang". was worn by both the military and civil officials for official business according to the Ming Shi.[9] The feet of the Ming dynasty straight-feet Script error: No such module "lang". were not completely straight and had a curved tip which would bend upwards.[9]
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Template:Zhp, also known as the Template:Zhp | It is a headwear of Ming dynasty officials, consisting of a black hat with two wing-like flaps of thin, oval shaped boards on each side. According to the Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty (Script error: No such module "Lang".), ordinary citizens are not allowed to wear this headdress unless attending wedding ceremonies or events involving any noble families/officials. In modern China, wushamao is commonly used as a metaphor for officials and government posts. The Zhanchi Futou was also adopted by neighbouring countries. | File:沈度半身像.jpgFile:程文德.jpgFile:Xu Xianqing.jpg | ||
| Template:Zhp | It was based on the Song dynasty's zhanjiao putou; in the Ming dynasty, it was worn by Ming civil officials at court assemblies when they would present memorials or retirement notices to the Ming rulers.[3]Template:Rp | File:Gu Dingchen 顾鼎臣.jpgFile:吕光洵.jpgFile:王鏊像.jpg | ||
| File:Zhang Cong.jpg | ||||
| Template:Zhp | A type of futou made of lacquered silk which is formed on a wooden frame. At the back of the hat, there is a tall extension which is molded into 2 symmetrical bulbous shapes; there are 2 ribbons which are fastened to the hat's lower back and straight up extending just beyond the top protrusion.[3]Template:Rp It is also a type of guan. | File:Hongwu2.jpgFile:Portrait de l'empereur Ming Muzong.jpg | ||
| File:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144666514).jpg | File:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144844026).jpg | File:Golden Crown Replica of King Wanli.jpg | ||
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Derivatives and influences
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See also
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References
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