Fragrance compound

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File:Grapefruit mercaptan.svg
"Grapefruit mercaptan" can be detected by humans at the ppt level.[1]

A fragrance compound (or fragrance) a chemical compound that with a pleasant odor. Fragrances affect only the sense of smell, whereas flavors can affect both the sense of taste and smell. Fagrances are often mixtures of individual fragrance compounds. Although many fragrances are derived from natural sources, many are synthetic. Fragrances are widely used in cosmetics and are the basis for a large industry.[2]

Related odiferous compounds

Stench compounds have unpleasant odors. Some are used as odorizer or an odorant usually have an intense odor, which may be pleasant or not. They are sometimes used to confer a detectable odor to an odorless substance, like propane, natural gas, or hydrogen, as a safety measure.[3]

Occurrence

For an individual chemical or class of chemical compounds to impart a smell or fragrance, it must be sufficiently volatile for transmission via the air to the olfactory system in the upper part of the nose. Generally, fragrance compounds have molecular weights of less than 310.[4]

Fragrance compounds are found in various foods, such as fruits and their peels, wine, spices, floral scent, perfumes, fragrance oils, and essential oils. For example, many form during the ripening of fruits and other crops.[5] Wines have more than 100 aromas that form as byproducts of fermentation.[6] Also, many of the aroma compounds play a significant role in the production of compounds used in the food service industry to flavor, improve, and generally increase the appeal of their products.[2]

History, biochemistry, economics

File:Perfume shelf 536pix.jpg
Fragrance bottles

The technology of fragrances came with the invention of distillation, which allowed to be concentrated and sometimes even separated into individual components. The purification of cinnamaldehyde, the first single component fragrance, marked the beginning of the fragrance and flavor industries. Other single component fragrance compounds that were purified in the 19th century include benzaldehyde, methyl salicylate (oil of wintergreen), and vanillin. Somewhat in step with the synthetic dye industry, the fragrance and flavor industry was established. Many fragrance compounds were prepared synthetically. Spectroscopic methods coupled with various separation techniques allowed the identification of traces of aroma compounds (e.g. in wines, flower extracts, etc).[2] Another relevant invention is gas chromatography, especially when coupled to detection by humans, i.e. gas chromatography-olfactometry. Techniques were also developed to characterize and synthesize individual enantiomers of chiral aromatic compounds. [7]

Animals, by the process of olfaction, detect aromas using olfactory receptors located on the surface of the olfactory epithelium in the nasal cavity.[5] Of commercial importance, aroma compounds are identified by gas chromatography, sometimes coupled to olfactometry, which involves a human operator sniffing the GC effluent.[8] Studies on cyclopentadecanone ("musk-ketone") reveal that the odors of some compounds are noticeably affected by deuteration.[9]

Various fragrant fruits are commercially cultivated to have appealing or intensified aromas.[10]

Fragrance compounds classified by chemical structure

In 2010, the International Fragrance Association published a list of 3,059 chemicals used in 2011 based on a voluntary survey of its members, identifying about 90% of the world's production volume of fragrances.[11][12]

Esters

Compound name Fragrance Natural occurrence Chemical structure
Geranyl acetate Fruity,
Floral
Rose
File:Geranyl acetate skeletal.svg
Methyl formate Ethereal synthetic
File:Structural formula of methyl formate.svg
Methyl acetate Sweet, nail polish
Solvent
synthetic
File:Methyl-acetate-2D-skeletal.svg
Fructone fruity, apple-like synthetic
File:Fructone chemical structure.png
Ethyl methylphenylglycidate Strawberry synthetic
File:Strawberry aldehyde.png
Methyl propionate
Sweet, fruity, rum-like
File:Methyl propionate.svg
Methyl butyrate
Fruity Apple
Pineapple
File:Buttersauremethylester.svg
Ethyl acetate Sweet, solvent Wine
File:Ethyl-acetate-2D-skeletal.svg
Ethyl butyrate
Fruity Orange, Pineapple
File:Ethyl butyrate2.svg
Isoamyl acetate Fruity, Banana,
Pear
Banana plant
File:Isoamyl acetate.svg
Pentyl butyrate
Fruity Pear
Apricot
File:Pentyl butyrate.svg
Pentyl pentanoate Fruity Apple
File:Pentyl pentanoate.svg
Octyl acetate Fruity Orange
File:Octyl acetate.svg
Benzyl acetate Fruity, Strawberry Strawberries
File:Benzyl acetate-structure.svg
Methyl anthranilate Fruity Grape
File:Methyl anthranilate.svg
Methyl salicylate Minty, root beer Wintergreen
File:Methyl salicylate.svg
Hexyl acetate Floral, Fruity Apple, Plum
File:Hexyl acetate.png

Linear terpenes

Compound name Fragrance Natural occurrence Chemical structure
Myrcene Woody, complex Verbena, Bay leaf
File:Myrcene beta straight acsv.svg
Geraniol Rose, flowery Geranium, Lemon
File:Geraniol structure.png
Nerol Sweet rose, flowery Neroli, Lemongrass
File:Nerol structure.svg
Citral, lemonal
Geranial, neral
Lemon Lemon myrtle, Lemongrass
File:Geranial structure.png
Citronellal Lemon Lemongrass
File:Citronellal-2D-skeletal.png
Citronellol Lemon Lemongrass, rose
Pelargonium
File:Citronellol-2D-skeletal.png
Linalool Floral, sweet
Woody
Coriander, Sweet basil, Lavender, Honeysuckle
File:Linalool skeletal.svg
Nerolidol Woody, fresh bark Neroli, ginger
Jasmine
File:Nerolidol.png
Ocimene Fruity, Floral Mango, Curcuma amada
File:Alpha-ocimene.svg

Cyclic terpenes

Compound name Fragrance Natural occurrence Chemical structure
Limonene Orange Orange, lemon
File:Limonene-2D-skeletal.svg
Camphor Camphor Camphor laurel
File:Camphor structure.png
Menthol Menthol Mentha
File:Menthol skeletal.svg
Carvone1 Caraway or Spearmint Caraway, dill,
spearmint
File:Carvone.svg
Terpineol Lilac Lilac, cajuput
File:Terpineol alpha.svg
alpha-Ionone Violet, woody Violet
File:Alpha-ionone-label.png
Thujone Minty Wormwood, lilac,
juniper
File:Beta-Thujone.svg
Eucalyptol Eucalyptus Eucalyptus
File:Eucalyptol.png
Jasmone spicy, fruity, floral in dilution Jasmine, Honeysuckle
File:Jasmon structural formation V1.svg

Note: Carvone, depending on its chirality, offers two different smells.

Aromatic

Compound name Fragrance Natural occurrence Chemical structure
Benzaldehyde Almond Bitter almond
File:Benzaldehyde.svg
Eugenol Clove Clove
File:Eugenol acsv.svg
Cinnamaldehyde Cinnamon Cassia
Cinnamon
File:Zimtaldehyd - cinnamaldehyde.svg
Ethyl maltol Cooked fruit
Caramelized sugar
File:Ethyl maltol.png
Vanillin Vanilla Vanilla
File:Vanillin.svg
Anisole Anise Anise
File:Anisol.svg
Anethole Anise Anise
Sweet basil
File:Anethole-structure-skeletal.svg
Estragole Tarragon Tarragon
File:Estragole acsv.svg
Thymol Thyme Thyme
File:Thymol2.svg

Other aroma compounds

Alcohols

Aldehydes

High concentrations of aldehydes tend to be very pungent and overwhelming, but low concentrations can evoke a wide range of aromas.

Ketones

Lactones

Detection and interpretation

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Fragrances are detected by the nose when the movement of inspired air contacts olfactory sensory neurons, which in humans, number between 6 and 10 million over a surface area of Template:Cvt of olfactory epithelium.[14] Fragrance signals are conveyed from the epithelium to the olfactory nerves, and then to the olfactory bulbs, which relay neural impulses about fragrance properties into the primary olfactory cortex of the brain.[14] In the olfactory cortex, fragrance characteristics are integrated to evaluate the safety and appeal of compounds to be ingested, and to recognize environmental and social factors associated by memory with the fragrance.[14][15]

Safety and regulation

File:Epikutanni-test.jpg
Patch test

In 2005–06, fragrance mix was the third-most-prevalent allergen in patch tests (11.5%).[16] 'Fragrance' was voted Allergen of the Year in 2007 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society. An academic study in the United States published in 2016 has shown that "34.7 % of the population reported health problems, such as migraine headaches and respiratory difficulties, when exposed to fragranced products".[17]

The composition of fragrances is usually not disclosed in the label of the products, hiding the actual chemicals of the formula, which raises concerns among some consumers.[18] In the United States, this is because the law regulating cosmetics protects trade secrets.[19]

In the United States, fragrances are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration if present in cosmetics or drugs, by the Consumer Product Safety Commission if present in consumer products.[19] No pre-market approval is required, except for drugs. Fragrances are also generally regulated by the Toxic Substances Control Act of 1976 that "grandfathered" existing chemicals without further review or testing and put the burden of proof that a new substance is not safe on the EPA. The EPA, however, does not conduct independent safety testing but relies on data provided by the manufacturer.[20]

A 2019 study of the top-selling skin moisturizers found 45% of those marketed as "fragrance-free" contained fragrance.[21]

See also

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References

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