Berluti
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Berluti is a French leather maker that manufactures menswear, especially the leather finishing of calfskin, kangaroo leather and alligator skin[1] in its production of shoes and boots. It makes leather belts, bags, and wallets, as well as bespoke and ready-to-wear garments. Established in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti of Marche, Berluti is based in Paris on rue Marbeuf. The brand was bought by LVMH in 1993.[2]
In 2023, the brand returned to Paris Fashion Week despite operating without a creative director.[3] The role was most recently held by Kris Van Assche from 2018 to 2021.[4]
History
Berluti was founded in 1895 by Italian Alessandro Berluti, and later run by Olga Squeri, also known as Olga Berluti.[5] The LVMH group acquired Berluti in 1993. In 2012, Berluti acquired Paris tailor house Arnys and launched its first prêt-à-porter menswear collections.[6]
In 2011, Olga Berluti was named creative director of the Berluti Art line.[7]
From 2011 to 2023, Berluti was headed by LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's son, Antoine Arnault, who also serves as the chairman of Loro Piana.[8] In March 2014, Isabella Capece Galeota became director of image and communications.[9][10]
Between 2011 and 2014, Berluti increased its annual revenue from less than 30 million euros ($32.6 million) to €100 million ($109 million), having expanded its product offering, bought a custom atelier and increased its global store network to 46 boutiques.[11]
In 2013, Berluti worked with Dutch artist Maarten Baas on created a series of sculptures.[12]
In 2017, Berluti introduced a sunglass collection in collaboration with Oliver Peoples.[13]
In 2018, creative director Kris Van Assche reconfigured the existing Berluti logo based on one he found carved into a shoe last and devised with M/M Paris.[14]
All the footwear manufacturing and leather goods are produced in the town of Gaibanella in the municipality of Ferrara,[15] while Paris is the location of the corporate headquarters.
Berluti designed uniforms for the French team at the opening ceremony of the 2024 Olympics and Paralympics in France.[16][17]
Creative directors
- 2011–2016: Alessandro Sartori[18]
- 2016–2018: Haider Ackermann[19][20][21][22][23][24][25]
- 2018–2021: Kris Van Assche[26][27]
Recognition
In 2017 Business of Fashion named Berluti among the 16 best companies to work for in the fashion industry.[28]
References
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- ↑ Berluti Stores
- ↑ LVMH Using Berluti Brand as a Steppingstone in Menswear Wall Street Journal, Christina Passariello, January 29, 2014
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- ↑ The Challenge of Freedom: Kris Van Assche on Rebooting Berluti Luke Leitch, vogue.com 17 January 2019
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- ↑ Katya Foreman (26 September 2011), Olga Berluti Assumes Berluti Creative Role Women's Wear Daily.
- ↑ businessoffashion.com Antoine Arnault
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- ↑ Miles Socha (21 November 2023), Antoine Arnault to Relinquish CEO Role at Berluti Women's Wear Daily.
- ↑ Elizabeth Paton (2 February 2016), Changes at Brioni and Berluti Continue Designer Shuffle New York Times.
- ↑ Rachel Felder (5 December 2013), Berluti Does Basel Women's Wear Daily.
- ↑ Miles Socha (28 October 2016), Berluti, Oliver Peoples Team for Eyewear Women's Wear Daily.
- ↑ Alexander Fury (18 January 2019), AW19 Paris mens: The Berluti re-boot Financial Times.
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- ↑ Mimosa Spencer (16 November 2023), LVMH's Berluti to design Olympics opening ceremony uniforms for French teams Reuters.
- ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
- ↑ berluti.com Alessandro Sartori Retrieved 5 November 2015
- ↑ Kate Abnett, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann Creative Director businessoffashion.com 1 September 2016
- ↑ LUKE LEITCH Why Haider Ackermann’s New Berluti Gig Is Menswear’s Most Tantalizing Appointment Script error: No such module "webarchive". vogue.com 1 September 2016
- ↑ Vanessa Friedman, Haider Ackermann Named Creative Director of Berluti The New York Times 2016/09/01
- ↑ Megan Gustashaw, Berluti Names Haider Ackermann as Creative Director GQ.com
- ↑ Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2017
- ↑ Fall/Winter 2017 Script error: No such module "webarchive". berluti.com
- ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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- ↑ Taylor Branson, THE FASHION COMPANIES YOU SHOULD BE WORKING FOR RIGHT NOW: Business of Fashion released their first-ever report on the best companies to work for in fashion. harpersbazaar.com 24 April 2017
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External links
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- Berluti official website
- Berluti, a luxury brand from LVMH Group
- YouTube looks inside Berluti boutiques at NYC Madison Ave, Tokyo Ginza, Shanghai IFC
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