Adam Ondra

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Template:Short description Template:Infobox climber

Adam Ondra (Script error: No such module "IPA".; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation.[1] Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes (alongside Sorato Anraku in 2023) to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines (lead climbing in 2009, 2015, and 2019 and bouldering in 2010).

At age 13, Ondra redpointed his first graded Template:Climbing grade sport route. Rock & Ice noted that by 2011, he was "onsighting 5.14c's by the handful", and by 2013, had "more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily".[1] By end 2018, Ondra had climbed 1,550 sport routes between grades Template:Climbing grade and Template:Climbing grade, of which one was a Template:Climbing grade, three were Template:Climbing grade, and three were onsights of Template:Climbing grade.[2]

Ondra is the first climber to redpoint a route with a proposed grade of Template:Climbing grade (Silence, 2017),[3] the first climber to redpoint a Template:Climbing grade route (Change, 2012),[4] the first-ever to flash a Template:Climbing grade route (Supercrackinette, 2018), and the second ever to onsight a Template:Climbing grade route (Cabane au Canada, 2013).[5]

Although primarily known for sport climbing, Ondra has repeated or established difficult big wall climbs,[6] traditional climbs,[7] and boulder problems.[8] Because of his achievements, Ondra is often referred to as the world's strongest climber.[9]

Climbing career

Early years

File:Adam Ondra Imst 2009.JPG
Ondra in 2009 at Imst

Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers, and they shared their passion with him. In 1999, at age six, in Rovinj, Croatia, Ondra climbed a Template:Climbing grade route with bolts every half meter. He quickly rose to fame, appearing in climbing magazines as his accomplishments became both more impressive and frequent:

Competition climbing

File:Adam Ondra Imst.JPG
Adam Ondra at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009
File:Boulder Worldcup Vienna 29-05-2010a semifinals068 Adam Ondra.jpg
Adam Ondra at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

In 2007 and 2008, he won the IFSC World Youth Championship, category Youth B. In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup, finishing ahead of Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.[11] In 2010, he won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian climber Kilian Fischhuber and Tsukuru Hori from Japan, becoming the first athlete in history to win the World Cup in both disciplines (lead and bouldering).[12]

Ondra failed to qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, as he was disqualified for accidentally toeing a bolt during the lead climbing portion of the combined event.[13] However, at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse later that year, he managed to secure a place in the Olympic Games,[14] despite falling ill after reaching the finals of the event.

In April 2021 Ondra won gold in the bouldering discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland. This marked his 20th World Cup gold medal.[15] Ondra finished in sixth place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in the Boulder, Lead and Speed Combined[16] and also sixth place in the 2024 Summer Olympics Boulder and Lead Combined.[17]

Rock climbing

File:Adam Ondra climbing Silence, 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 1-cropped.jpg
Ondra climbing Silence, Template:Climbing grade, in 2017

During a March 2011 trip to Spain, Ondra became the second-ever person to onsight a Template:Climbing grade route, after Patxi Usobiaga.[18] On October 4, 2012, Ondra redpointed Change in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger Municipality, Norway, the world's first-ever route to receive a grade of Template:Climbing grade.[4][19]

On February 7, 2013, Ondra ascended La Dura Dura in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second Template:Climbing grade after Change. He worked on this project with American climber Chris Sharma, and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks.[20] On February 9, 2013, two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the Template:Climbing grade route, Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011.[21] On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second-ever onsight of a Template:Climbing grade route in history, after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.[5]

On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of the 1,000-metre granite route, The Dawn Wall, a 32-pitch grade Template:Climbing grade big wall climbing route at El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley. The route was widely regarded as the hardest big wall climbing route in the world. Ondra led every pitch and completed the project in 8 days (the first ascenders, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson alternated leads, and spent 19 days on the wall).[22]

On April 23, 2017, Ondra set a new highpoint for Black Diamond's The Project indoor sport route in Stockholm, Sweden, which is believed to be the hardest in the world.[23]

On September 3, 2017, after about 4 years of dedicated work and training, Ondra climbed Silence, in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger Municipality, Norway. Silence was the world's first-ever route to have a proposed grade of Template:Climbing grade.[3] On February 10, 2018, Ondra completed the world's first-ever flash of a confirmed Template:Climbing grade route with his ascent of Super Crackinette in Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France.[24]

Rankings

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Climbing World Cup

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024
Lead 1 3 57 - 11 3 1 23 27 31 1 31 19 22 35
Bouldering 15 1 - - - 24 3 - - - 2 3 - 20 32
Speed - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Combined 1 1 - - - 2 1 - 65 - 2 - - - -

[25]

Climbing World Championships

Youth[26]

Discipline 2007
Youth B 		2008
Youth B 		2009
Youth A
Lead 1 1 1

Adult[26]

Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2023
Lead 2 3 3 1 1 2 1 8
Bouldering - 2 - 1 2 17 6 8
Speed - 70 - - - 81 58 -
Combined - - - - - 2 18 6

Climbing European Championships

Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017 2019 2022
Lead 2 - 2 2 1 1
Bouldering 2 - 2 - - 3
Source:[26]

Rock Master

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Lead 3 3 5 -
Duel 1 2 - 1 1
KO Boulder - - - - - - - 1

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007 Youth B 5 5
2008 Youth B 5 5
Total 10 0 0 10
Source:[26]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2009 4 4
2010 1 1 1 3
2011
2012		 0
2013 1 1 2
2014 3 3
2015 2 2 4
2016 0
2017 1 1
2018 0
2019 3 3
2020 1 1
2021 0
2022 1 1
2023 1 1
Total 16 6 1 23
Source:[26]

Bouldering

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2009 1 1
2010 3 2 5
2011
2012
2013		 0
2014 1 1
2015 2 2
2016
2017
2018		 0
2019 1 2 3
2021 2 2
2022 0
2023 1 1
Total 6 6 3 15
Source:[26]

Single-pitch routes

The table below shows the large number of routes graded Template:Climbing grade or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 16 years, from August 2, 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 10, 2018.[2] The total number is 1554, of which one was at Template:Climbing grade and 725 were onsighted, including four onsights at Template:Climbing grade and one flash at Template:Climbing grade.[2]

Number of ascended routes
Grade Redpoint Flash On-sight Total
Template:Climbing grade 1 1
Template:Climbing grade 4 4
Template:Climbing grade 20 20
Template:Climbing grade 39 1 40
Template:Climbing grade 101 2 4 107
Template:Climbing grade 124 1 21 146
Template:Climbing grade 110 1 61 172
Template:Climbing grade 96 4 85 185
Template:Climbing grade 108 19 143 270
Template:Climbing grade 82 17 207 306
Template:Climbing grade 65 35 205 305
Total 750 80 725 1555

Redpoint

Template:Climbing grade:

Template:Climbing grade:

Template:Climbing grade:

  • Wonderland - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route 9b/9b+ or hard 9b, making it the hardest route in Italy.
  • Bomba - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent
  • The Lonely Mountain - Arco (ITA) - December 2021. Second ascent after Stefano Ghisolfi.
  • Taurus - Býčí skála (CZE) - December 2021 - First Ascent
  • Erebor - Arco (ITA) - November 2021
  • Neanderthal - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 12, 2019
  • Disbelief - Acephale (CAN) - July 20, 2018 - First ascent[29]
  • Eagle-4 - St. Léger (FRA) - February 13, 2018 - First ascent
  • One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017 - First ascent
  • Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - July 10, 2017 - First ascent (link-up of two neighboring routes; through first crux of Move into second crux of Silence, at the time known as Project Hard)
  • Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent[30]
  • Queen Line - Laghel (Arco, ITA) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent[31]
  • Mamichula - Oliana (ESP) - February 8, 2017 - First ascent[32]
  • Robin Ud - Alternativna stena ([[Slovakia|Template:ISO 3166 code-3]]) - October 5, 2016 - First ascent[33]
  • Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 19, 2016 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
  • C.R.S. - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
  • First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
  • Move - Flatanger (NOR) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route "9b/9b+, or just hard 9b".[34] Repeated on June 17, 2019 by Seb Bouin, who later on upgraded the route to 9b+.[35]
  • Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent
  • Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011)[21]
  • La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 22, 2011 - First ascent[36]
  • Chilam Balam -Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)[37]
  • Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start[38]
  • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent[39]
  • Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)[40]

Template:Climbing grade:

  • Bombardino - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - February 23, 2022
  • Trofeo dell'Adriatico - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - January 27, 2022
  • Furia de Jabali - Siurana (ESP) - January 19, 2022
  • Kout pikle - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - December 18, 2021 - First Ascent
  • Molekuly - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - October 26, 2021 - First Ascent
  • Bohemian Rhapsody - Velká (CZE) - April, 2020 - First Ascent
  • Qui - Geisterschmiedwand (AUT) - September 19, 2019 - Second ascent
  • Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 10, 2019
  • Czech trip - Mavrovi Anovi (MKD) - October 19, 2018 - First Ascent
  • High Line - Kanjon Tijesno (BiH) - September 25, 2018
  • Sacrifice - Echo Canyon (CAN) - July 23, 2018 - First ascent
  • Stone Butterfly - Herculane (ROU) - May 15, 2018 - First ascent
  • Underground Dreaming - Arco (ITA) - February 24, 2018 - First ascent
  • Super Crackinette - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 10, 2018 - Flash
  • La Castagne - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 2, 2018
  • Meiose - Charmey (CHE) - January 27, 2018
  • One Punch - Arco (ITA) - November 13, 2017
  • Naturalmente - Camaiore (ITA) - April 21, 2017 - First ascent[41]
  • Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (ITA) - April 19, 2017 - third ascent[31]
  • Hyper Finale - Ayent, Rawyl (CHE) - July 17, 2016
  • 120 Degrees - Flatanger (NOR) - June 19, 2016
  • Vicious Circle - Osp (SLO) - March 25, 2016
  • Predator - Bohemian Karst (CZE) - November 19, 2015 - first ascent, the hardest route in Bohemia[42]
  • Three Degrees of Separation - Céüse (FRA) - July 27, 2015 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2007)
  • Realization - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2014 - tenth ascent
  • Ini Ameriketan - Baltzola (ESP) - May 9, 2014
  • Hell Racer - Hell (NOR) - September 22, 2013 - first ascent
  • Kangaroo's Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - September 21, 2013 - first ascent
  • Torture Physique Integrale - Gastlosen (CHE) - July 7, 2013 - first ascent
  • Power Inverter - Oliana (ESP) - January 25, 2013 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010)
  • Thor's Hammer - Flatanger (NOR) - July 8, 2012 - first ascent (now downgraded to 9a)
  • Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - June 7, 2012 - first ascent[43]
  • Perlorodka - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - first ascent
  • Overshadow - Malham Cove ([[United Kingdom|Template:ISO 3166 code-3]]) - May 16, 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route[44]
  • Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 21, 2011 - first ascent of Chris Sharma's project
  • Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - March 14, 2011 - first ascent of Daniel Andrada's project[45]
  • L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - September 4, 2010 - First ascent[46]
  • Goldrake - Cornalba (ITA) - April 6, 2010 - first ascent[47]
  • Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - October 20, 2009 - first ascent[48]
  • Corona - Frankenjura (DEU) - June 7, 2009 - second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006)[49]
  • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)[50]
  • Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - November 17, 2008 - second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996)[51]
  • La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - February 10, 2008 - sixth ascent[52]

On-sight

File:Monkey Face - Smith Rock, Oregon.jpg
The east face of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, containing Just do it (8c+), onsighted by Ondra in 2018. When it was first ascended by Tribout, Just do it was considered the hardest route in the USA.[53]

Template:Climbing grade:


Template:Climbing grade:

Template:Climbing grade:

Boulder problems

Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008,[70] 2009[71] 2010[72] and 2011.[73]

He climbed 293 boulder problems between Template:Boulder grade and Template:Boulder grade.[74] Specifically:

  • 1 9A/V17
  • 4 8C+/V16
  • 10 8C/V15
  • 31 8B+/V14
  • 57 8B/V13
  • 76 8A+/V12
  • 115 8A/V11

Template:Boulder grade:

Template:Boulder grade:

Template:Boulder grade:

Template:Boulder grade:

  • Nunavut - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
  • Pučmeloun - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
  • Ghost Rider - (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - September 24, 2019 - Second ascent
  • Cháron - Petrohrad (Mlýnský vrch), (CZE) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent[79]
  • Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (CHE) - October 1, 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
  • Pata ledovce - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent[80]
  • Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZAF) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
  • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - November 30, 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)[81]
  • Big Paw - Chironico (CHE) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)[82]

Multi-pitch routes

File:East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar.jpg
Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle
January 14, 2015 - Redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days, after 7 years of mapping.[83][84]
November 21, 2016 - Redpointed by Adam Ondra in 8 days, after a few weeks of practicing the already mapped ascent.[85]
  • Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo ([[Madagascar|Template:ISO 3166 code-3]]) - October 10, 2010 - First free ascent
  • Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (MDG) - October 7, 2010
  • Tough Enough Original - Karambony (MDG) - October 4, 2010 - First free ascent[86]
  • Tough Enough - Karambony (MDG) - September 30, 2010 - First free ascent[87]
  • Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - October 18, 2008 - First onsight ascent[88]
  • Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée (Aiglun, FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent[89]
  • WoGü - Rätikon (CHE) - July 26, 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997)[90]
  • Zub za zub - Rätikon (CHE) - July 29, 2007 - First free ascent[91]
  • Silbergeier - Rätikon (CHE) - July 27, 2007[92]

Filmography

  • The Fanatic Search - 2009 - Produced by Work Less Climb More and Laurent Triay
  • Progression - 2009 - by Josh Lowell - Produced by Big UP Productions
  • The Wizard's Apprentice - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - 110'[93]
  • Reel Rock Tour 7 - 2012 - Produced by Big UP Productions
  • La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb in the World - 2014 - Part of Reel Rock 7 (Template:Webarchive) by Big Up Productions[94]
  • Change - 2014 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood -[95]
  • Silence—The Story of Adam Ondra and the World's First 5.15d - 2018 - by Bernardo Giménez - Produced by AO Production s.r.o.
  • Ondra is also producing his own video series about qualifying and competing in the 2020 Summer Olympics, released on YouTube, called Road to Tokyo.

Books

  • JAROŠ, Martin; ONDRA, Adam. Adam Ondra: lezec tělem i duší. Albatros, 2019. 200 p.
  • ONDRA, Adam; GIMENEZ, Bernardo; BÍBA, Lukáš. Adam Ondra Book. AO Production, 2019. 223 p.

Awards

See also

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References

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External links

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Template:Climber links

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