Gasherbrum I: Difference between revisions

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| map_caption =  
| map_caption =  
| map_size = 300
| map_size = 300
| map_image={{Karakoram OSM}}
| map_image = {{Karakoram OSM}}
| label_position = right
| label_position = right
| coordinates   = {{coord|35|43|28|N|76|41|47|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates = {{coord|35|43|28|N|76|41|47|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| coordinates_ref =  
| first_ascent = {{indented plainlist|
| first_ascent = {{indented plainlist|
* 5 July 1958 by an [[United States|American]] team including two Pakistan army officers
* 5 July 1958 by an [[United States|American]] team including two Pakistan army officers
* First winter ascent 9 March 2012 [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]] and {{ill|Janusz Gołąb|pl}}<ref>{{cite journal | title = Gasherbrum I (8,086m), First Winter Ascent | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=2012|  issn= 0065-6925 | first =Artur | last =  Hajzer    | isbn= 978-1933056753 | volume =#54 |issue= 86 | pages=  |  access-date =25 May 2024    |url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212934/Gasherbrum-I-8086m-First-Winter-Ascent }}</ref><ref>{{cite journal | title = The Polish Gasherbrum I Winter Expedition | journal =Alpine Journal| date= 2013|  first1 =Agnieszka  | last1 = Bielecka |first2 =Artur | last2 =Hajzer|isbn=    |  issn= 0065-6569 |volume =#117 |issue=361 | pages=15-20  |  access-date =25 May 2024    |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2013_files/AJ%202013%2015-20%20Bielecka%20Hajzer%20Gasherbrum.pdf }}</ref>
* First winter ascent 9 March 2012 [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]] and {{ill|Janusz Gołąb|pl}}<ref>{{cite journal | title = Gasherbrum I (8,086m), First Winter Ascent | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=2012|  issn= 0065-6925 | first =Artur | last =  Hajzer    | isbn= 978-1933056753 | volume =#54 |issue= 86 | pages=  |  access-date =25 May 2024    |url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212934/Gasherbrum-I-8086m-First-Winter-Ascent }}</ref><ref>{{cite journal | title = The Polish Gasherbrum I Winter Expedition | journal =Alpine Journal| date= 2013|  first1 =Agnieszka  | last1 = Bielecka |first2 =Artur | last2 =Hajzer|isbn=    |  issn= 0065-6569 |volume =#117 |issue=361 | pages=15-20  |  access-date =25 May 2024    |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2013_files/AJ%202013%2015-20%20Bielecka%20Hajzer%20Gasherbrum.pdf }}</ref>
}}
}}
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb
| easiest_route =  
| mapframe     = no
| mapframe = no
| mapframe-wikidata = yes
| mapframe-wikidata = yes
}}
}}


'''Gasherbrum I''' ({{Langx|bft|རྒ་ཥཱ་བྲུམ་། - ༡|lit=Beautiful Mountain - 1|translit=rgasha brum - 1}}; {{langx|ur|{{nq|گاشر برم - ۱}}}}; {{zh|s=加舒尔布鲁木I峰|t=加舒爾布魯木I峰|p=Jiāshūěrbùlǔmù I Fēng}}), [[Great Trigonometrical Survey|surveyed]] as '''K5''' and also known as '''Hidden Peak''', is the [[List of highest mountains#List|11th highest mountain]] in the world at {{convert|8080|m|ft}} above sea level. It is located between [[Shigar District]] in the [[Gilgit–Baltistan]] region of [[Pakistan]] and [[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County|Tashkurgan]] in the [[Xinjiang]] of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the [[Gasherbrum Massif]], located in the [[Karakoram]] region of the [[Himalaya]]. Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean  "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak [[Gasherbrum IV]]; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in [[Balti language|Balti]], hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."
'''Gasherbrum I'''{{efn|{{Langx|bft|རྒ་ཥཱ་བྲུམ་། - ༡|lit=Beautiful Mountain - 1|translit=rgasha brum - 1}}; {{langx|ur|{{nq|گاشر برم - ۱}}}}; {{zh|s=加舒尔布鲁木I峰|t=加舒爾布魯木I峰|p=Jiāshūěrbùlǔmù I Fēng}}}}, originally [[Great Trigonometrical Survey|surveyed]] as '''K5,''' and also known as '''Hidden Peak''', is the [[List of highest mountains#List|11th highest mountain]] in the world at {{convert|8080|m|ft}} above sea level. It is located between [[Shigar District]] in the [[Gilgit–Baltistan]] region of [[Pakistan]] and [[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County|Tashkurgan]] in the [[Xinjiang]] province of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the [[Gasherbrum Massif]], located in the [[Karakoram]] region of the [[Himalaya]].


Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the [[Karakoram]]) by [[Thomas George Montgomerie|T.G. Montgomerie]] in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200&nbsp;km away during the [[Great Trigonometric Survey]] of India. In 1892, [[William Martin Conway]] provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness.
''Gasherbrum'' is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak [[Gasherbrum IV]]; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in [[Balti language|Balti]], hence it actually means "beautiful mountain".
 
Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the [[Karakoram]]) by [[Thomas George Montgomerie|T.G. Montgomerie]] in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200&nbsp;km away during the [[Great Trigonometric Survey]] of India. In 1892, [[William Martin Conway]] provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness, due to which it remains ''hidden'' behind anterior peaks of the Gasherbrum group for most of the way along the [[Baltoro Glacier|Baltoro glacier]].  


Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by [[Pete Schoening]] and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man [[United States|American]] expedition led by [[Nicholas Clinch|Nicholas B. Clinch]], Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.<ref name=clinch>{{cite book|last=Clinch|first=Nicholas|title=A Walk in the Sky:  Climbing Hidden Peak|publisher=The Mountaineers|date=1982|isbn=0898860423|place=New York, Vancouver}}</ref>{{rp|210–212}}
Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by [[Pete Schoening]] and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man [[United States|American]] expedition led by [[Nicholas Clinch|Nicholas B. Clinch]], Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.<ref name=clinch>{{cite book|last=Clinch|first=Nicholas|title=A Walk in the Sky:  Climbing Hidden Peak|publisher=The Mountaineers|date=1982|isbn=0898860423|place=New York, Vancouver}}</ref>{{rp|210–212}}
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* 1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss [[Günther Dyhrenfurth|G.O. Dyhrenfurth]], explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to {{convert|6300|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss [[Günther Dyhrenfurth|G.O. Dyhrenfurth]], explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to {{convert|6300|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1936 - A [[France|French]] expedition gets to {{convert|6900|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.
* 1936 - A [[France|French]] expedition gets to {{convert|6900|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.
* 1958 - An American team led by [[Nicholas Clinch]] including two Pakistani army officers captain Mohammad Akram and captain S.T.H Rizvi makes the first ascent, via Roch ridge.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|208}}
* 1958 - An American team led by [[Nicholas Clinch]], including the two Pakistani army officers captain Mohammad Akram and captain S.T.H Rizvi, makes the first ascent via Roch ridge.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|208}}
* 1975 - [[Reinhold Messner]] and [[Peter Habeler]] reached the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure [[alpine style]] (first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days total.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|212}} One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}}
* 1975 - [[Reinhold Messner]] and [[Peter Habeler]] reach the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure [[alpine style]] (first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days in total.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|212}} One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}}
* 1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians ({{Interlanguage link|Nejc Zaplotnik|sl}} and [[Andrej Štremfelj|Andrej Stremfelj]]), again on a new route. Team member [[Drago Bregar]] died.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}}
* 1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians ({{Interlanguage link|Nejc Zaplotnik|sl}} and [[Andrej Štremfelj|Andrej Stremfelj]]), again on a new route. Team member [[Drago Bregar]] dies.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}}
* 1980 - Frenchmen [[Liliane_and_Maurice_Barrard|Maurice Barrard]] and Georges Narbaud<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}} are successful with the fifth ascent and pass the South Ridge for the first time.<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1980 - Frenchmen [[Liliane_and_Maurice_Barrard|Maurice Barrard]] and Georges Narbaud<ref name=clinch />{{rp|213}} are successful with the fifth ascent, and pass the South Ridge for the first time.<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1981 - A Japanese team follows the Clinch route with fixed ropes for the sixth successful ascent.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|214}}<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1981 - A Japanese team follows the Clinch route with fixed ropes for the sixth successful ascent.<ref name=clinch />{{rp|214}}<ref name=g1_history/>
* 1982 - [[Michael Dacher]], Siegfried Hupfauer and Günter Sturm of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Vallençant is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, [[Sylvain Saudan]] from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
* 1982 - [[Michael Dacher]], Siegfried Hupfauer and Günter Sturm of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Vallençant is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, [[Sylvain Saudan]] from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
* 1983 - [[Jerzy Kukuczka]] with [[Wojciech Kurtyka]], new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
* 1983 - [[Jerzy Kukuczka]] with [[Wojciech Kurtyka]], new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
* 1983 - Teams from [[Switzerland]] and [[Spain]] are successful.
* 1983 - Teams from [[Switzerland]] and [[Spain]] are successful.
* 1984 - [[Reinhold Messner]] and [[Hans Kammerlander]] traverse [[Gasherbrum II]] and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between
* 1984 - [[Reinhold Messner]] and [[Hans Kammerlander]] traverse [[Gasherbrum II]] and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between.
* 1985 - Solo ascent by [[Benoît Chamoux]]. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.<ref>Fanshawe &amp; Venables "Himalaya alpine-style" <!-- needs page # --></ref>
* 1985 - Solo ascent by [[Benoît Chamoux]]. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.<ref>Fanshawe &amp; Venables "Himalaya alpine-style" <!-- needs page # --></ref>
* 1997 - Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
* 1997 - Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
* 2003 - 19 people reach the summit, 4 deaths, including [[Mohammad Oraz]].<ref name=k2news_iran/>
* 2003 - 19 people reach the summit. Four people lose their lives to the mountain, including [[Mohammad Oraz]].<ref name=k2news_iran/>
* 2012 - March 9, [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]] and {{ill|Janusz Gołąb|pl}} (Poland) made the first winter ascent. The ascent was made without the aid of supplementary oxygen.<ref name=pwh/> The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Göschl, Swiss Cedric Hählen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — went missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.<ref name=dawn/>
* 2012 - March 9, [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]] and {{ill|Janusz Gołąb|pl}} (Poland) make the first winter ascent. They do so without the aid of supplementary oxygen.<ref name=pwh/> The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Göschl, Swiss Cedric Hählen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — go missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.<ref name=dawn/>
* 2013 - 7 July, [[Artur Hajzer]] died after falling in the Japanese Couloir after an attempt to reach the summit.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-artur-hajzer-gasherbrum-fall|title=Iconic Polish Climber Artur Hajzer Dies on Gasherbrum I|date=16 July 2013|last=Crothers|first=David|access-date=25 July 2018}}</ref>
* 2013 - 7 July, [[Artur Hajzer]] dies after falling in the Japanese Couloir after an attempt to reach the summit.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-artur-hajzer-gasherbrum-fall|title=Iconic Polish Climber Artur Hajzer Dies on Gasherbrum I|date=16 July 2013|last=Crothers|first=David|access-date=25 July 2018}}</ref>
* 2013 - 21 July, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez and Álvaro Paredes climbed to the top to then disappear while descending after a storm.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/se-da-por-desaparecidos-a-xevi-gomez-alvaro-paredes-y-abel-alonso-en-el-g1|title=Se da por desaparecidos a Xevi Góméz, Álvaro Paredes y Abel Alonso en el G1|date=26 July 2013|access-date=25 July 2018}}</ref>
* 2013 - 21 July, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez, and Álvaro Paredes climb to the top, then disappear while descending after a storm.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/se-da-por-desaparecidos-a-xevi-gomez-alvaro-paredes-y-abel-alonso-en-el-g1|title=Se da por desaparecidos a Xevi Góméz, Álvaro Paredes y Abel Alonso en el G1|date=26 July 2013|access-date=25 July 2018}}</ref>
* 2017 - 30 July, in an alpine style six-day ascent without supplementary oxygen, Czechs [[Marek Holeček|Marek 'Mára' Holeček]] and Zdeněk Hák established a new route named Satisfaction! (in memory of [[Zdeněk Hrubý]]) up the Southwest Face.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/gasherbrum-1-sw-face-big-new-route-by-marek-holecek-and-zdenek-hak.html|title=Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák|website=Planet Mountain|date=11 August 2017|access-date=1 May 2018}}</ref>
* 2017 - 30 July, in an alpine style six-day ascent without supplementary oxygen, Czechs [[Marek Holeček|Marek 'Mára' Holeček]] and Zdeněk Hák establish a new route named "Satisfaction!" (in memory of [[Zdeněk Hrubý]]) up the Southwest Face.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/gasherbrum-1-sw-face-big-new-route-by-marek-holecek-and-zdenek-hak.html|title=Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák|website=Planet Mountain|date=11 August 2017|access-date=1 May 2018}}</ref>


==See also==
==See also==
Line 82: Line 84:


==Notes and references==
==Notes and references==
{{notelist}}
{{reflist|3|refs=
{{reflist|3|refs=
<ref name=g1_history>
<ref name=g1_history>

Latest revision as of 03:40, 9 June 2025

Script error: No such module "redirect hatnote". Template:Short description Template:Infobox mountain

Gasherbrum ITemplate:Efn, originally surveyed as K5, and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at Template:Convert above sea level. It is located between Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Tashkurgan in the Xinjiang province of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum Massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya.

Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain".

Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the Karakoram) by T.G. Montgomerie in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200 km away during the Great Trigonometric Survey of India. In 1892, William Martin Conway provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness, due to which it remains hidden behind anterior peaks of the Gasherbrum group for most of the way along the Baltoro glacier.

Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man American expedition led by Nicholas B. Clinch, Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.[1]Template:Rp

Timeline

  • 1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to Template:Convert.[2]
  • 1936 - A French expedition gets to Template:Convert.
  • 1958 - An American team led by Nicholas Clinch, including the two Pakistani army officers captain Mohammad Akram and captain S.T.H Rizvi, makes the first ascent via Roch ridge.[1]Template:Rp
  • 1975 - Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler reach the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure alpine style (first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days in total.[1]Template:Rp One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.[1]Template:Rp
  • 1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians (Template:Interlanguage link and Andrej Stremfelj), again on a new route. Team member Drago Bregar dies.[1]Template:Rp
  • 1980 - Frenchmen Maurice Barrard and Georges Narbaud[1]Template:Rp are successful with the fifth ascent, and pass the South Ridge for the first time.[2]
  • 1981 - A Japanese team follows the Clinch route with fixed ropes for the sixth successful ascent.[1]Template:Rp[2]
  • 1982 - Michael Dacher, Siegfried Hupfauer and Günter Sturm of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Vallençant is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, Sylvain Saudan from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
  • 1983 - Jerzy Kukuczka with Wojciech Kurtyka, new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
  • 1983 - Teams from Switzerland and Spain are successful.
  • 1984 - Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander traverse Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between.
  • 1985 - Solo ascent by Benoît Chamoux. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.[3]
  • 1997 - Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
  • 2003 - 19 people reach the summit. Four people lose their lives to the mountain, including Mohammad Oraz.[4]
  • 2012 - March 9, Adam Bielecki and Template:Ill (Poland) make the first winter ascent. They do so without the aid of supplementary oxygen.[5] The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Göschl, Swiss Cedric Hählen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — go missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.[6]
  • 2013 - 7 July, Artur Hajzer dies after falling in the Japanese Couloir after an attempt to reach the summit.[7]
  • 2013 - 21 July, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez, and Álvaro Paredes climb to the top, then disappear while descending after a storm.[8]
  • 2017 - 30 July, in an alpine style six-day ascent without supplementary oxygen, Czechs Marek 'Mára' Holeček and Zdeněk Hák establish a new route named "Satisfaction!" (in memory of Zdeněk Hrubý) up the Southwest Face.[9]

See also

Bibliography

  • Script error: No such module "Citation/CS1".
  • Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  • Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".

Notes and references

Template:Notelist Template:Reflist

External links


Script error: No such module "Navbox". Template:Karakoram Template:Authority control

  1. ↑ a b c d e f g Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  2. ↑ a b c Cite error: Invalid <ref> tag; no text was provided for refs named g1_history
  3. ↑ Fanshawe & Venables "Himalaya alpine-style"
  4. ↑ Cite error: Invalid <ref> tag; no text was provided for refs named k2news_iran
  5. ↑ Cite error: Invalid <ref> tag; no text was provided for refs named pwh
  6. ↑ Cite error: Invalid <ref> tag; no text was provided for refs named dawn
  7. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  8. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
  9. ↑ Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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