'''Berwick-upon-Tweed''' ({{IPAc-en|audio=En-uk-BerwickUponTweed.ogg|ˈ|b|ɛr|ᵻ|k}}), sometimes known as '''Berwick-on-Tweed''' or simply '''Berwick''', is a town and [[civil parish]] in [[Northumberland]], England, {{cvt|2.5|mi|km|0|abbr=off}} south of the [[Anglo-Scottish border]], and the northernmost town in England.{{efn|The smaller hamlet of [[Marshall Meadows Bay|Marshall Meadows]] is the actual northernmost settlement of any kind in England.}}<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/14/world/europe/scottish-independence-referendum-berwick-upon-tweed.html |last=Erlanger |first=Steven |author-link=Steven Erlanger |title=Bracing for Change on Scotland's Border, Whatever the Referendum Result |newspaper=[[The New York Times]] |date=13 September 2014 |access-date=1 March 2017 |archive-date=16 July 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170716220235/https://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/14/world/europe/scottish-independence-referendum-berwick-upon-tweed.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The [[2011 United Kingdom census]] recorded Berwick's population as 12,043.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadKeyFigures.do?a=7&b=11120634&c=Berwick&d=16&e=62&g=6452859&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1421836670614&enc=1 |title=Area: Berwick-upon-Tweed (Parish): Key Figures for 2011 Census: Key Statistics |work=Neighbourhood Statistics |publisher=[[Office for National Statistics]] |access-date=20 January 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304045236/http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadKeyFigures.do?a=7&b=11120634&c=Berwick&d=16&e=62&g=6452859&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1421836670614&enc=1 |archive-date=4 March 2016 |url-status=dead}}</ref>
'''Berwick-upon-Tweed''' ({{IPAc-en|audio=En-uk-BerwickUponTweed.ogg|ˈ|b|ɛr|ᵻ|k}} {{respell|BEH|rik}}), sometimes known as '''Berwick-on-Tweed''' or simply '''Berwick''', is a town and [[civil parish]] in [[Northumberland]], England, {{cvt|2.5|mi|km|0|abbr=off}} south of the [[Anglo-Scottish border]], and the northernmost town in England.{{efn|The smaller hamlet of [[Marshall Meadows Bay|Marshall Meadows]] is the actual northernmost settlement of any kind in England.}}<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/14/world/europe/scottish-independence-referendum-berwick-upon-tweed.html |last=Erlanger |first=Steven |author-link=Steven Erlanger |title=Bracing for Change on Scotland's Border, Whatever the Referendum Result |newspaper=[[The New York Times]] |date=13 September 2014 |access-date=1 March 2017 |archive-date=16 July 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170716220235/https://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/14/world/europe/scottish-independence-referendum-berwick-upon-tweed.html |url-status=live }}</ref> The [[2011 United Kingdom census]] recorded Berwick's population as 12,043.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadKeyFigures.do?a=7&b=11120634&c=Berwick&d=16&e=62&g=6452859&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1421836670614&enc=1 |title=Area: Berwick-upon-Tweed (Parish): Key Figures for 2011 Census: Key Statistics |work=Neighbourhood Statistics |publisher=[[Office for National Statistics]] |access-date=20 January 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304045236/http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadKeyFigures.do?a=7&b=11120634&c=Berwick&d=16&e=62&g=6452859&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1421836670614&enc=1 |archive-date=4 March 2016 |url-status=dead}}</ref>
The town is at the mouth of the [[River Tweed]] on the east coast, {{cvt|56|mi}} south east of [[Edinburgh]], {{cvt|65|mi}} north of [[Newcastle upon Tyne]], and {{cvt|345|mi}} north of [[London]]. Uniquely for England, the town is slightly further north than [[Denmark]]'s capital [[Copenhagen]] and the southern tip of [[Sweden]], further east of the [[North Sea]], which Berwick borders.
The town is at the mouth of the [[River Tweed]] on the east coast, {{cvt|56|mi}} south east of [[Edinburgh]], {{cvt|65|mi}} north of [[Newcastle upon Tyne]], and {{cvt|345|mi}} north of [[London]]. Uniquely for England, the town is slightly further north than [[Denmark]]'s capital [[Copenhagen]] and the southern tip of [[Sweden]], further east of the [[North Sea]], which Berwick borders.
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Robert Lauder of [[Edrington]] was put in charge of the castle. He was succeeded in 1474 by [[David Lindsay, 1st Duke of Montrose|David, Earl of Crawford]]. On 3 February 1478, [[Robert Lauder of the Bass]] and Edrington was again appointed Keeper of the castle, a position that he held until the final year of Scottish control, when [[Patrick Hepburn, 1st Lord Hailes|Patrick Hepburn]], 1st Lord Hailes, had possession.{{citation needed|date=June 2020}}
Robert Lauder of [[Edrington]] was put in charge of the castle. He was succeeded in 1474 by [[David Lindsay, 1st Duke of Montrose|David, Earl of Crawford]]. On 3 February 1478, [[Robert Lauder of the Bass]] and Edrington was again appointed Keeper of the castle, a position that he held until the final year of Scottish control, when [[Patrick Hepburn, 1st Lord Hailes|Patrick Hepburn]], 1st Lord Hailes, had possession.{{citation needed|date=June 2020}}
In 1482, Richard, [[Duke of Gloucester]] (later [[Richard III of England|Richard III]]) [[Capture of Berwick (1482)|recaptured the town]].<ref>{{cite book |last=Dobson |first=RB |year=1996 |title=Church and Society in the Medieval North of England |location=London |publisher=[[Continuum International Publishing Group|Continuum]] |isbn=978-1-85285-120-0 |page=132}}</ref> [[Thomas Gower (marshal of Berwick)|Thomas Gower]] ({{floruit|1543–1577}}) was the English [[marshal]] of Berwick 1543-1552. The Scots did not accept this conquest evidenced by innumerable charters for at least two centuries after this date, but never regained control of the town.<ref name="Historic Manuscripts Commission 1902, p.225"/> over a little more than 400 years, Berwick had changed hands more than a dozen times.{{sfn|Pevsner|Richmond|Grundy|McCombie|1992|p=173}}
In 1482, Richard, [[Duke of Gloucester]] (later [[Richard III of England|Richard III]]) [[Capture of Berwick (1482)|recaptured the town]].<ref>{{cite book |last=Dobson |first=RB |year=1996 |title=Church and Society in the Medieval North of England |location=London |publisher=[[Continuum International Publishing Group|Continuum]] |isbn=978-1-85285-120-0 |page=132}}</ref> [[Thomas Gower (marshal of Berwick)|Thomas Gower]] ({{floruit|1543–1577}}) was the English [[marshal]] of Berwick 1543–1552. The Scots did not accept this conquest evidenced by innumerable charters for at least two centuries after this date, but never regained control of the town.<ref name="Historic Manuscripts Commission 1902, p.225"/> over a little more than 400 years, Berwick had changed hands more than a dozen times.{{sfn|Pevsner|Richmond|Grundy|McCombie|1992|p=173}}
=== English town ===
=== English town ===
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=== Berwick's identity ===
=== Berwick's identity ===
Berwick is famous for its hesitation over whether it is part of Scotland or England.<ref>{{cite web |last=Woolley |first=Alexander |date=11 September 2014 |title=The Scottish referendum means Berwick-upon-Tweed faces an uncertain future |url=https://www.newstatesman.com/blogs/2014/09/scottish-referendum-means-berwick-upon-tweed-faces-uncertain-future |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210122033448/https://www.newstatesman.com/blogs/2014/09/scottish-referendum-means-berwick-upon-tweed-faces-uncertain-future |archive-date=22 January 2021 |access-date=20 January 2021 |website=www.newstatesman.com }}</ref> Some people are adamant they are English and their loyalty lies with Northumberland, while others feel an affinity with Scotland.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2012/jan/13/scotland-independence-berwick-upon-tweed |work=The Guardian |date=13 January 2012 |title=Border town where Scottish independence is another dividing line |access-date=2 December 2018 |archive-date=2 December 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181202202704/https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2012/jan/13/scotland-independence-berwick-upon-tweed |url-status=live }}</ref> Whilst it has been argued that the town's geographic and historic place between the two has led to it developing a distinctive identity of its own,<ref name=":1">{{cite web |last=MacEacheran |first=Mike |date=28 September 2020 |title=The British town with a third 'nationality' |url=https://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201121172640/http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality |archive-date=21 November 2020 |access-date=20 January 2021 |website=www.bbc.com }}</ref> many people in Berwick also have mixed Anglo-Scottish families which contributes to a sense of separate identity.<ref>[http://www.visitberwick.com/what-are-we Visitberwick.com. ''What we are.''] {{Webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181203055624/http://www.visitberwick.com/what-are-we |date=3 December 2018 }} Retrieved 2 December 2018.</ref> Historian Derek Sharman said "The people of Berwick feel really independent. You are a Berwicker first, Scottish or English second."<ref name=":0" /> Former mayor Mike Elliot said "25% of the town consider themselves English, 25% Scottish and 50% Berwickers."<ref>{{cite news |last=Kerr |first=Rachel |date=8 October 2004 |title=A tale of one town |work=BBC News |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/tyne/3727046.stm |url-status=live |access-date=20 January 2021 |archive-date=9 March 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210309184809/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/tyne/3727046.stm }}</ref> Professor Dominic Watt of the [[University of Aberdeen]] noted that: "Older people view themselves more as Scots than the younger people in Berwick, and this can be heard in their accents."<ref>{{cite web |last= |first= |date=26 August 2004 |title=Devolution is silencing Berwick's Scots voices |url=https://www.scotsman.com/news/devolution-silencing-berwicks-scots-voices-2509649 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220202175202/https://www.scotsman.com/news/devolution-silencing-berwicks-scots-voices-2509649 |archive-date=2 February 2022 |access-date=20 January 2021 |website=www.scotsman.com }}</ref>
Berwick is famous for its hesitation over whether it is part of Scotland or England.<ref>{{cite web |last=Woolley |first=Alexander |date=11 September 2014 |title=The Scottish referendum means Berwick-upon-Tweed faces an uncertain future |url=https://www.newstatesman.com/blogs/2014/09/scottish-referendum-means-berwick-upon-tweed-faces-uncertain-future |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210122033448/https://www.newstatesman.com/blogs/2014/09/scottish-referendum-means-berwick-upon-tweed-faces-uncertain-future |archive-date=22 January 2021 |access-date=20 January 2021 |website=www.newstatesman.com }}</ref> Some people are adamant they are English and their loyalty lies with Northumberland, while others feel an affinity with Scotland.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2012/jan/13/scotland-independence-berwick-upon-tweed |work=The Guardian |date=13 January 2012 |title=Border town where Scottish independence is another dividing line |access-date=2 December 2018 |archive-date=2 December 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181202202704/https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2012/jan/13/scotland-independence-berwick-upon-tweed |url-status=live }}</ref> Whilst it has been argued that the town's geographic and historic place between the two has led to it developing a distinctive identity of its own,<ref name=":1">{{cite web |last=MacEacheran |first=Mike |date=28 September 2020 |title=The British town with a third 'nationality' |url=https://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201121172640/http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200927-the-british-town-with-a-third-nationality |archive-date=21 November 2020 |access-date=20 January 2021 |website=www.bbc.com }}</ref> many people in Berwick also have mixed Anglo-Scottish families which contributes to a sense of separate identity.<ref>[http://www.visitberwick.com/what-are-we Visitberwick.com. ''What we are.''] {{Webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181203055624/http://www.visitberwick.com/what-are-we |date=3 December 2018 }} Retrieved 2 December 2018.</ref> Historian Derek Sharman said "The people of Berwick feel really independent. You are a Berwicker first, Scottish or English second."<ref name=":0" /> Former mayor Mike Elliot said "25% of the town consider themselves English, 25% Scottish and 50% Berwickers."<ref>{{cite news |last=Kerr |first=Rachel |date=8 October 2004 |title=A tale of one town |work=BBC News |url=https://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/tyne/3727046.stm |url-status=live |access-date=20 January 2021 |archive-date=9 March 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210309184809/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/tyne/3727046.stm }}</ref> Professor Dominic Watt of the [[University of Aberdeen]] noted that: "Older people view themselves more as Scots than the younger people in Berwick, and this can be heard in their accents."<ref>{{cite web |last= |first= |date=26 August 2004 |title=Devolution is silencing Berwick's Scots voices |url=https://www.scotsman.com/news/devolution-silencing-berwicks-scots-voices-2509649 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220202175202/https://www.scotsman.com/news/devolution-silencing-berwicks-scots-voices-2509649 |archive-date=2 February 2022 |access-date=20 January 2021 |website=www.scotsman.com }}</ref>
In 2008, [[Scottish National Party|SNP]] [[Member of the Scottish Parliament]] (MSP) [[Christine Grahame]] made calls in the [[Scottish Parliament]] for Berwick to become part of Scotland again.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/south_of_scotland/7237802.stm |title='Return to fold' call for Berwick |access-date=17 July 2008 |work=BBC News |date=10 February 2008 |archive-date=13 February 2008 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080213182608/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/south_of_scotland/7237802.stm |url-status=live }}</ref> The Liberal Democrat MSP [[Jeremy Purvis]], who was born and brought up in Berwick, asked for the border to be moved twenty miles south, stating: "There's a strong feeling that Berwick should be in Scotland. Until recently, I had a gran in Berwick and another in [[Kelso, Scottish Borders|Kelso]], and they could see that there were better public services in Scotland."<ref>'{{cite news |newspaper=[[The Sunday Post]] |date=10 February 2008 |title=Scots plan to capture 20 miles of England}}</ref> However, [[Alan Beith]], the former MP for Berwick, said the move would require a massive legal upheaval and is not realistic.<ref>{{cite news |last=Hamilton |first=Alan |date=13 February 2008 |title=Berwick thinks it's time to change sides... again |newspaper=[[The Times]] |url=http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/politics/article3359670.ece |access-date=14 February 2008}}{{dead link|date=September 2024|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}}</ref> Beith's successor as MP, [[Anne-Marie Trevelyan]], said: "Voters in Berwick-upon-Tweed do not believe it is whether they are in England or Scotland that is important."<ref name=":0">{{cite news |last=Dawson |first=Katie |date=1 May 2010 |title=Berwick-upon-Tweed: English or Scottish? |work= |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/politics/election_2010/england/8640148.stm |url-status=live |access-date=20 January 2021 |archive-date=27 December 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201227141730/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/politics/election_2010/england/8640148.stm }}</ref>
In 2008, [[Scottish National Party|SNP]] [[Member of the Scottish Parliament]] (MSP) [[Christine Grahame]] made calls in the [[Scottish Parliament]] for Berwick to become part of Scotland again.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/south_of_scotland/7237802.stm |title='Return to fold' call for Berwick |access-date=17 July 2008 |work=BBC News |date=10 February 2008 |archive-date=13 February 2008 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080213182608/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/south_of_scotland/7237802.stm |url-status=live }}</ref> The Liberal Democrat MSP [[Jeremy Purvis]], who was born and brought up in Berwick, asked for the border to be moved twenty miles south, stating: "There's a strong feeling that Berwick should be in Scotland. Until recently, I had a gran in Berwick and another in [[Kelso, Scottish Borders|Kelso]], and they could see that there were better public services in Scotland."<ref>'{{cite news |newspaper=[[The Sunday Post]] |date=10 February 2008 |title=Scots plan to capture 20 miles of England}}</ref> However, [[Alan Beith]], the former MP for Berwick, said the move would require a massive legal upheaval and is not realistic.<ref>{{cite news |last=Hamilton |first=Alan |date=13 February 2008 |title=Berwick thinks it's time to change sides... again |newspaper=[[The Times]] |url=http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/politics/article3359670.ece |access-date=14 February 2008}}{{dead link|date=September 2024|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}}</ref> Beith's successor as MP, [[Anne-Marie Trevelyan]], said: "Voters in Berwick-upon-Tweed do not believe it is whether they are in England or Scotland that is important."<ref name=":0">{{cite news |last=Dawson |first=Katie |date=1 May 2010 |title=Berwick-upon-Tweed: English or Scottish? |work= |url=https://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk_politics/election_2010/england/8640148.stm |url-status=live |access-date=20 January 2021 |archive-date=27 December 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201227141730/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/politics/election_2010/england/8640148.stm }}</ref>
=== Berwick dialect ===
=== Berwick dialect ===
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=== Relations with Russia ===
=== Relations with Russia ===
There is an apocryphal story that Berwick is (or recently has been) officially at war with [[Russia]].<ref name="QI">{{cite web |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhtiGIuR1M4 |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211107/YhtiGIuR1M4 |archive-date=2021-11-07 |url-status=live |title=Who was the only survivor of the Crimean War? |author=QI: Quite Interesting |work=YouTube |date=9 December 2016 |access-date=28 May 2020}}{{cbignore}}</ref> According to a story by George Hawthorne in ''[[The Guardian]]'' of 28 December 1966, the London correspondent of ''[[Pravda]]'' visited the Mayor of Berwick, Councillor Robert Knox, and the two made a mutual declaration of peace. Knox said, "Please tell the Russian people through your newspaper that they can sleep peacefully in their beds." The same story, cited to the [[Associated Press]], appeared in ''[[The Baltimore Sun]]'' of 17 December 1966; ''[[The Washington Post]]'' of 18 December 1966; and ''[[The Christian Science Monitor]]'' of 22 December 1966. At some point, the real events seem to have been turned into a story of a "Soviet official" having signed a "peace treaty" with Mayor Knox; Knox's remark to the ''Pravda'' correspondent was preserved in this version.<ref name="QI"/><ref name=Culture>{{cite web |last=Spicer |first=Graham |title=Myth Or Reality? Berwick Revisits Its 'War With Russia' |work=Culture 24 |date=24 July 2006 |url=http://www.culture24.org.uk/history+%2526+heritage/time/georgian+and+victorian/art38768 |access-date=1 December 2009 |archive-date=22 October 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101022030506/http://www.culture24.org.uk/history+%26+heritage/time/georgian+and+victorian/art38768 |url-status=live }}</ref>
There is an apocryphal story that Berwick is (or recently has been) officially at war with [[Russia]].<ref name="QI">{{cite web |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhtiGIuR1M4 |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211107/YhtiGIuR1M4 |archive-date=2021-11-07 |url-status=live |title=Who was the only survivor of the Crimean War? |author=QI: Quite Interesting |work=YouTube |date=9 December 2016 |access-date=28 May 2020}}{{cbignore}}</ref> According to a story by George Hawthorne in ''[[The Guardian]]'' of 28 December 1966, the London correspondent of ''[[Pravda]]'' visited the Mayor of Berwick, Councillor Robert Knox, and the two made a mutual declaration of peace. Knox said, "Please tell the Russian people through your newspaper that they can sleep peacefully in their beds." The same story, cited to the [[Associated Press]], appeared in ''[[The Baltimore Sun]]'' of 17 December 1966; ''[[The Washington Post]]'' of 18 December 1966; and ''[[The Christian Science Monitor]]'' of 22 December 1966. At some point, the real events seem to have been turned into a story of a "Soviet official" having signed a "peace treaty" with Knox; his remark to the ''Pravda'' correspondent was preserved in this version.<ref name="QI"/><ref name=Culture>{{cite web |last=Spicer |first=Graham |title=Myth Or Reality? Berwick Revisits Its 'War With Russia' |work=Culture 24 |date=24 July 2006 |url=http://www.culture24.org.uk/history+%2526+heritage/time/georgian+and+victorian/art38768 |access-date=1 December 2009 |archive-date=22 October 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101022030506/http://www.culture24.org.uk/history+%26+heritage/time/georgian+and+victorian/art38768 |url-status=live }}</ref>
The basis for such status was the claim that Berwick had changed hands several times, was traditionally regarded as a special, separate entity, and some proclamations referred to "England, Scotland and the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed". One such was the declaration of the [[Crimean War]] against Russia in 1853, which [[Queen Victoria]] supposedly signed as "Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, Ireland, Berwick-upon-Tweed and all British Dominions". When the [[Treaty of Paris (1856)|Treaty of Paris]] was signed to conclude the war, "Berwick-upon-Tweed" was left out. This meant that, supposedly, one of Britain's smallest towns was officially at war with one of the world's largest powers – and the conflict [[List of wars extended by diplomatic irregularity|extended by the lack of a peace treaty]] for over a century.<ref name=Culture/> In reality, Berwick-upon-Tweed was not mentioned in either the declaration of war or the final peace treaty and was legally part of the United Kingdom for both.
The basis for such status was the claim that Berwick had changed hands several times, was traditionally regarded as a special, separate entity, and some proclamations referred to "England, Scotland and the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed". One such was the declaration of the [[Crimean War]] against Russia in 1853, which [[Queen Victoria]] supposedly signed as "Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, Ireland, Berwick-upon-Tweed and all British Dominions". When the [[Treaty of Paris (1856)|Treaty of Paris]] was signed to conclude the war, "Berwick-upon-Tweed" was left out. This meant that, supposedly, one of Britain's smallest towns was officially at war with one of the world's largest powers – and the conflict [[List of wars extended by diplomatic irregularity|extended by the lack of a peace treaty]] for over a century.<ref name=Culture/> In reality, Berwick-upon-Tweed was not mentioned in either the declaration of war or the final peace treaty and was legally part of the United Kingdom for both.
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== Education ==
== Education ==
As with the rest of [[Northumberland]], schools in Berwick use the [[Three-tier education|three-tier system]]. Pupils may also commute across the Scottish border to [[Eyemouth]] or [[Berwickshire]] to attend secondary school.
As with the rest of [[Northumberland]], schools in Berwick have historically used the [[Three-tier education|three-tier system]], however the Berwick Partnership of schools is set to transition into a two-tier system as of September 2025, with [[Northumberland County Council]] investing £50 million into the project which will include an entirely new building for Berwick Academy.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Council |first=Northumberland County |title=Northumberland County Council - First phase of £50m Berwick schools masterplan takes shape |url=https://www.northumberland.gov.uk/News/2025/Jul/First-phase-of-50m-Berwick-schools-masterplan-take.aspx |access-date=2025-08-08 |website=www.northumberland.gov.uk |language=en-gb}}</ref> Pupils may also commute across the Scottish border to [[Eyemouth]] or [[Berwickshire]] to attend secondary school.
'''First schools'''
'''First schools'''
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* [[Berwick town walls]] and Tudor ramparts are some of the country's finest remaining examples of their type.
* [[Berwick town walls]] and Tudor ramparts are some of the country's finest remaining examples of their type.
* The [[Berwick Bridge|Old Bridge]], 15-span [[sandstone]] arch bridge {{cvt|1164|ft|m|order=flip}} long, built in 1610–1624 for £15,000. The bridge continues to carry road traffic, but in one direction only. The bridge, part of the [[Great North Road (Great Britain)|Great North Road]] from [[London]] to [[Edinburgh]] was built by order of [[James VI and I]].[[File:Berwick church.jpg|thumb|[[Church of the Holy Trinity, Berwick-on-Tweed|Holy Trinity Parish Church]]]]
* The [[Berwick Bridge|Old Bridge]], 15-span [[sandstone]] arch bridge {{cvt|1164|ft|m|order=flip}} long, built in 1610–1624 for £15,000. The bridge continues to carry road traffic, but in one direction only. The bridge, part of the [[Great North Road (Great Britain)|Great North Road]] from [[London]] to [[Edinburgh]] was built by order of [[James VI and I]].[[File:Berwick church.jpg|thumb|[[Church of the Holy Trinity, Berwick-on-Tweed|Holy Trinity Parish Church]]]]
* [[Church of the Holy Trinity, Berwick-on-Tweed|Holy Trinity Parish Church]], unusual for having been built during the [[Commonwealth of England]]. It was built in 1648–1652 with stone from the 13th-century castle. It was originally a plain "preaching box", with no steeple, stained glass or other decorations. Contents include a pulpit thought to have been built for John Knox during his stay in the town. The church was much altered in 1855 with many new windows and the addition of a [[chancel]].
* [[Church of the Holy Trinity, Berwick-on-Tweed|Holy Trinity Parish Church]], unusual for having been built during the [[Commonwealth of England]]. It was built in 1648–1652 with stone from the 13th-century castle. It was originally a plain "preaching box", with no steeple, stained glass or other decorations. Contents include a pulpit thought to have been built for [[John Knox]] during his stay in the town. The church was much altered in 1855 with many new windows and the addition of a [[chancel]].
* [[Berwick Barracks]], built 1717–1721, the design attributed to [[Nicholas Hawksmoor]].
* [[Berwick Barracks]], built 1717–1721, the design attributed to [[Nicholas Hawksmoor]].
* [[Berwick Town Hall]], designed by S&J Worrell and built in 1754–1760. The building is [[Neoclassical architecture|neoclassical]], and originally the town's prison was on the top floor. The tower above the council chamber has a [[Change ringing|ring of eight bells]] and a [[curfew bell]]. Lester and Pack of the [[Whitechapel Bell Foundry]] cast the tenor, third, fourth and treble bells in 1754 and the fifth and sixth bells in 1759. Charles Carr of [[Smethwick]] cast the second and curfew bells in 1894. Mears and Stainbank of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry cast the seventh bell in 1901.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?searchString=Berwick&Submit=+Go+&DoveID=BERWICKUTW |title=Berwick upon Tweed Town Hall |last=Smith |first=Martin |date=1 February 2007 |work=[[Dove's Guide for Church Bell Ringers]] |publisher=[[Central Council for Church Bell Ringers]] |access-date=21 January 2015 |archive-date=4 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150904092352/http://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?searchString=Berwick&Submit=+Go+&DoveID=BERWICKUTW |url-status=live }}</ref>
* [[Berwick Town Hall]], designed by S&J Worrell and built in 1754–1760. The building is [[Neoclassical architecture|neoclassical]], and originally the town's prison was on the top floor. The tower above the council chamber has a [[Change ringing|ring of eight bells]] and a [[curfew bell]]. Lester and Pack of the [[Whitechapel Bell Foundry]] cast the tenor, third, fourth and treble bells in 1754 and the fifth and sixth bells in 1759. Charles Carr of [[Smethwick]] cast the second and curfew bells in 1894. Mears and Stainbank of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry cast the seventh bell in 1901.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?searchString=Berwick&Submit=+Go+&DoveID=BERWICKUTW |title=Berwick upon Tweed Town Hall |last=Smith |first=Martin |date=1 February 2007 |work=[[Dove's Guide for Church Bell Ringers]] |publisher=[[Central Council for Church Bell Ringers]] |access-date=21 January 2015 |archive-date=4 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150904092352/http://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?searchString=Berwick&Submit=+Go+&DoveID=BERWICKUTW |url-status=live }}</ref>
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* [[Torben Betts]], award-winning playwright, lives in Berwick
* [[Torben Betts]], award-winning playwright, lives in Berwick
* [[William Bowyer (died 1628)]], Captain and Mayor of Berwick
* [[William Bowyer (died 1628)]], Captain and Mayor of Berwick
* [[Lucy Bronze]], footballer for [[Chelsea F.C. Women|Chelsea F.C.]] and [[England women's national football team|England]], born in Berwick-upon-Tweed
* [[Jessie Greengrass]], author, lives in Berwick-upon-Tweed
* [[Jessie Greengrass]], author, lives in Berwick-upon-Tweed
* [[James Cockburn (politician, born 1819)|James Cockburn]], first speaker of the Canadian House of Commons, born in Berwick
* [[James Cockburn (politician, born 1819)|James Cockburn]], first speaker of the Canadian House of Commons, born in Berwick
* [[George Frederick Cooke]] (1756–1811), widely called the first Romantic actor in England
* [[George Frederick Cooke]] (1756–1811), widely called the first Romantic actor in England
* [[Alexander Knox]], the Hollywood actor, made Berwick his adopted home and died there.
* [[Alexander Knox]], the Hollywood actor, made Berwick his adopted home and died there.
* [[John Knox]], the Scottish preacher, was resident protestant minister in Berwick in 1549-1550
* [[Robert Lee (minister)|Rev Prof Robert Lee]] (1804–1868), raised in Tweedmouth
* [[Robert Lee (minister)|Rev Prof Robert Lee]] (1804–1868), raised in Tweedmouth
* [[John Leonard (architect)|John Leonard]] (born 1857), architect, born in Berwick-upon-Tweed
* [[John Leonard (architect)|John Leonard]] (born 1857), architect, born in Berwick
* [[Eric Lomax]], the author of ''The Railway Man'', lived in Berwick-upon-Tweed
* [[Eric Lomax]], the author of ''The Railway Man'', lived in Berwick-upon-Tweed
* [[Alan Martin (writer)|Alan Martin]], co-creator of the comic and movie character [[Tank Girl]], lives in Berwick
* [[Alan Martin (writer)|Alan Martin]], co-creator of the comic and movie character [[Tank Girl]], lives in Berwick
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* [[Jeremy Purvis]], Liberal Democrat MSP, and youngest person in [[Scottish Parliament]] at time of election. Since 2013 Purvis has been a life peer in the House of Lords, sitting on the Liberal Democrat benches.
* [[Jeremy Purvis]], Liberal Democrat MSP, and youngest person in [[Scottish Parliament]] at time of election. Since 2013 Purvis has been a life peer in the House of Lords, sitting on the Liberal Democrat benches.
* [[James Redpath]] American anti-slavery activist and journalist, born in Berwick
* [[James Redpath]] American anti-slavery activist and journalist, born in Berwick
* [[Ian Sarfas]], English darts player, played in the 1994 BDO World Darts Championships
* [[Thomas Smith (English soldier)|Thomas Smith]], soldier and writer
* [[Thomas Smith (English soldier)|Thomas Smith]], soldier and writer
* [[Trevor Steven]], England and Everton footballer, born in Berwick
* [[Laura Steven]], author, born in Berwick
* [[Joseph Stevenson]], prominent English Catholic archivist and Jesuit priest, born in Berwick
* [[Joseph Stevenson]], prominent English Catholic archivist and Jesuit priest, born in Berwick
* [[Tweedy John Todd]], born in Berwick in 1789, doctor and naturalist
* [[Tweedy John Todd]], born in Berwick in 1789, doctor and naturalist
* [[Patrick Tonyn]], born in Berwick in 1725, a military general and Governor of British [[East Florida]]
* [[Patrick Tonyn]], born in Berwick in 1725, a military general and Governor of British [[East Florida]]
* [[Henry Travers]], grew up in Berwick (although actually born in Prudhoe), was a character actor, most famously as [[Clarence Odbody]] in ''[[It's a Wonderful Life]]''
* [[Henry Travers]], grew up in Berwick (although actually born in Prudhoe), was a character actor, most famously as [[Clarence Odbody]] in ''[[It's a Wonderful Life]]''
===Sports===
* [[Lucy Bronze]], footballer for [[Chelsea F.C. Women|Chelsea F.C.]] and [[England women's national football team|England]], born in Berwick-upon-Tweed
* [[Thomas Herriot]] (1887–1949), cricketer
* [[Ian Sarfas]], English darts player, played in the 1994 BDO World Darts Championships
* [[Trevor Steven]], England and Everton footballer, born in Berwick
== Climate ==
== Climate ==
Berwick-upon-Tweed has a [[oceanic climate|maritime climate]] with narrow temperature differences between seasons. Because of its far northern position in England coupled with considerable [[North Sea]] influence, the area has very cool summers for an English location, with a subdued July (1981–2010) high of {{cvt|17.9|C|F}}, more resembling a Scottish climate. January, in turn, has a high of {{cvt|6.8|C|F}} with a low of {{cvt|1.7|C|F}} with occasional frosts averaging 38.1 times per annum. Rainfall is relatively low by British standards, with {{cvt|589.2|mm|in|frac=16}} on average; nonetheless, sunshine is limited to an average of 1508.5 hours per annum. All data are sourced from the Berwick-upon-Tweed station operated by the [[Met Office]].<ref name="metoffice">{{cite web |url=https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/climate/maps-and-data/uk-climate-averages/gcyt62suu |title=Berwick-upon-Tweed climate information |work=[[Met Office]] |access-date=9 July 2020 |archive-date=9 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200709145338/https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/climate/maps-and-data/uk-climate-averages/gcyt62suu |url-status=live }}</ref>
Berwick-upon-Tweed has a [[oceanic climate|maritime climate]] with narrow temperature differences between seasons. Because of its far northern position in England coupled with considerable [[North Sea]] influence, the area has very cool summers for an English location, with a subdued July (1991–2020) high of {{cvt|18.1|C|F}}, more resembling a Scottish climate. January, in turn, has a high of {{cvt|7.0|C|F}} with a low of {{cvt|2.1|C|F}}. Rainfall is relatively low by British standards, with {{cvt|605.9|mm|in|frac=16}} on average; nonetheless, sunshine is limited to an average of 1535.4 hours per annum. All data are sourced from the Berwick-upon-Tweed station operated by the [[Met Office]].<ref name="metoffice">{{cite web |url=https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/climate/maps-and-data/uk-climate-averages/gcyt62suu |title=Berwick-upon-Tweed climate information |work=[[Met Office]] |access-date=9 July 2020 |archive-date=9 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200709145338/https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/climate/maps-and-data/uk-climate-averages/gcyt62suu |url-status=live }}</ref>
Berwick was founded as an Anglo-Saxon settlement in the Kingdom of Northumbria, which was annexed by England in the 10th century.[3] A civil parish and town council were formed in 2008 comprising the communities of Berwick, Spittal and Tweedmouth.[4] It is the northernmost civil parish in England.
For more than 400 years, the area was central to historic border wars between the Kingdoms of England and Scotland, and several times possession of Berwick changed hands between the two kingdoms. The last time it changed hands was when Richard, Duke of Gloucester (later King Richard III) retook it for England in 1482.[5] To this day, many Berwickers feel a close affinity to Scotland.[6] Both Berwick Rangers Football Club and Berwick Rugby Football Club play in Scottish leagues.
Berwick's name is of the same origin as the word berewick,[8] denoting a portion of farmland which was detached from a manor and reserved for a lord's own use.[9] This comes from the Old Englishberewíc, meaning "corn farm" (more specifically, bere refers to barley).[10] Its earliest recorded spelling, as Berewich, dates from 1167.[11] There are several places in Britain with the same name;[8] one such is North Berwick in Scotland, and Berwick-upon-Tweed has also been called "South Berwick" in Scottish sources.[12] The medieval seal of the town showed a bear and a wych tree as a pun on the name.[13]
Between the late 10th and early 11th centuries, the land between the rivers Forth and Tweed came under Scottish control, either through conquest by Scotland or through cession by England.[16] Berwick was made a royal burgh by David I (reigned 1124–1153).[17] David also established many of the shires of Scotland, with Berwick becoming the county town of Berwickshire, which covered the town and a largely rural area to the north-west of it.[18] A mint was present in the town by 1153.[19] In 1276, William de Baddeby was Constable of Berwick.[20]
While under Scottish control, Berwick was referred to as "South Berwick" to differentiate it from the town of North Berwick, East Lothian, near Edinburgh.[21]
Berwick had a medieval hospital for the sick and poor, which the Church administered. A charter under the Great Seal of Scotland, confirmed by King James I of Scotland, grants the king's chaplain "Thomas Lauder of the House of God or Hospital lying in the burgh of Berwick-upon-Tweed, to be held to him for the whole time of his life with all lands, teinds, rents and profits, etc., belonging to the said hospital, as freely as is granted to any other hospital in the Kingdom of Scotland; the king also commands all those concerned to pay to the grantee all things necessary for the support of the hospital. Dated at Edinburgh June 8, in the 20th year of his reign."Script error: No such module "Unsubst".
Disputed territory
Berwick's strategic position on the Anglo-Scottish border during centuries of war between the two nations and its relatively great wealth led to a succession of raids, sieges and takeovers. William I of Scotland invaded and attempted to capture northern England in 1173–74.[22] After his defeat in 1174, Berwick was ceded to Henry II of England under the Treaty of Falaise, along with four other castles at Edinburgh, Jedburgh, Roxburgh, and Stirling, with the five castles to be garrisoned with English troops paid for at Scottish expense.[23] The Treaty of Falaise was annulled in 1189 when William paid Richard I of England 10,000 marks sterling to contribute towards the latter's crusade.[24]
Berwick had become a prosperous town by the middle of the 13th century. According to William Edington, a bishop and chancellor of England, Berwick was "so populous and of such commercial importance that it might rightly be called another Alexandria, whose riches were the sea and the water its walls".[25]
In 1296, England went to war with France, with which Scotland was in alliance. Balliol invaded England in response, sacking Cumberland.[27] Edward, in turn, invaded Scotland and captured Berwick, destroying much of the town and massacring the burgesses, merchants and artisans of the town.[28]
Edward I went again to Berwick in August 1296 to receive formal homage from some 2,000 Scottish nobles, after defeating the Scots at the Battle of Dunbar in April and forcing John Balliol to abdicate at Kincardine Castle the following July. At this time, work began on building the town walls (and rebuilding the earlier Castle); these fortifications were complete by 1318 and subsequently improved under Scottish rule. An arm of William Wallace was displayed at Berwick after his execution and quartering on 23 August 1305.
In 1314, Edward II of England mustered 25,000 men at Berwick, who later fought in the crushing defeat at the Battle of Bannockburn. Between 1315 and 1318, Scottish armies, sometimes with the help of Flemish and German privateers, besieged and blockaded the town, finally capturing it in April 1318.[29]
Robert Lauder of Edrington was put in charge of the castle. He was succeeded in 1474 by David, Earl of Crawford. On 3 February 1478, Robert Lauder of the Bass and Edrington was again appointed Keeper of the castle, a position that he held until the final year of Scottish control, when Patrick Hepburn, 1st Lord Hailes, had possession.Script error: No such module "Unsubst".
In 1482, Richard, Duke of Gloucester (later Richard III) recaptured the town.[33]Thomas Gower (Template:Floruit) was the English marshal of Berwick 1543–1552. The Scots did not accept this conquest evidenced by innumerable charters for at least two centuries after this date, but never regained control of the town.[20] over a little more than 400 years, Berwick had changed hands more than a dozen times.Template:Sfn
Much of southern Scotland was again invaded by England during the "Rough Wooing" (also known as the Eight Years' War) of 1543–1551. The war ended with the Treaty of Norham in 1551, which saw England withdraw back to the border as had existed before the war began, and so retaining Berwick. Under the treaty, Berwick was declared to be a free town, independent of either kingdom.[34] In practice it was controlled by England and sent members of parliament to the English parliament, but as an independent borough, outside the authority of the sheriffs of any English county, similar to a county corporate.[35]
During the reign of Queen Elizabeth I of England, vast sums – one source reports "£128,648, the most expensive undertaking of the Elizabethan period"[36] – were spent on its fortifications, in a new Italian style (trace italienne), designed both to withstand artillery and to facilitate its use from within the fortifications. These fortifications have been described as "the only surviving walls of their kind".[15]Sir Richard Lee designed some of the Elizabethan works,[37] and the Italian military engineer Giovanni Portinari was also involved in the project.[38]
Berwick's role as a border fortress town ended with England and Scotland's Union of the Crowns. On 6 April 1603, James VI of Scotland crossed the Border on his journey southwards to be crowned James I of England. He was met at Lamberton by the Lord Governor of Berwick with a mounted party from the garrison and was conducted into the town.[39] In December 1603, the Crown ordered the dissolution of the garrison of Berwick and the number of soldiers was reduced to 100 men and pensioners.[40]
In 1707, the Act of Union united England and Scotland to create the Kingdom of Great Britain. Since then, Berwick has remained within the laws and legal system of England and Wales. The Wales and Berwick Act 1746 (since repealed) deemed that whenever legislation referred to England, it applied to Berwick without the need for a specific reference to the town.
Until the 1830s the borough boundaries of the town were identical to the parish of Berwick, which lay entirely on the north side of the River Tweed, covering the main part of the built-up area and the rural areas immediately north-west of it. By that time, Tweedmouth on the south side of the river had grown to a sizeable population, effectively as a suburb of the town but outside the borough boundaries. Under the Parliamentary Boundaries Act 1832 the parliamentary borough (constituency) of Berwick was enlarged to include the townships of Tweedmouth and Spittal south of the Tweed.[45] A couple of years later, the Municipal Corporations Act 1835 standardised how boroughs were governed across England and Wales, and Berwick's municipal boundaries were enlarged to match the parliamentary borough, bringing Tweedmouth and Spittal under the jurisdiction of Berwick's town council. The same act also formalised Berwick's status as an independent county corporate.[46][47] The population of the borough in 1841 was 12,578, and that of the parish was 8,484.[48]
In the 1840s, Samuel Lewis included similar entries for Berwick-upon-Tweed in both his England and Scotland Topographical Dictionary.[49][50] Berwick remained a county in its own right, and remained a separate parliamentary constituency until 1885 when it was merged to become a division of Northumberland under the Redistribution of Seats Act 1885. In 1889 elected county councils were established under the Local Government Act 1888, which were based on the parliamentary boundaries of counties, and so Berwick was brought under the jurisdiction of Northumberland County Council, with the town council thereafter being a lower-tier authority subordinate to the county council.[51]
England now is officially defined as "subject to any alteration of boundaries under Part IV of the Local Government Act 1972, the area consisting of the counties established by section 1 of that Act, Greater London and the Isles of Scilly",[52] which thus includes Berwick. In the 1972 act's reorganisation of English local government from 1 April 1974, the Borough of Berwick-upon-Tweed was created by the merger of the previous borough of Berwick-upon-Tweed with Belford Rural District, Glendale Rural District and Norham and Islandshires Rural District.
The Interpretation Act 1978 provides that in legislation passed between 1967 and 1974, "a reference to England includes Berwick upon Tweed and Monmouthshire".
During periods of Scottish administration, Berwick was the county town of Berwickshire, to which the town gave its name. Thus at various points in the Middle Ages and from 1482 (when Berwick became administered by England), Berwickshire had the unique distinction of being the only county in the British Isles to be named after a town in another country.[53]
In 1958, the borough's council applied for a coat of arms, but applied to the Lord Lyon King of Arms, the Scottish heraldic authority, for the grant "as suitable to a Burgh of Scotland", which was duly granted.[54]
Northumberland County Council became the unitary authority for the area when the Borough of Berwick-upon-Tweed was abolished on 1 April 2009.[56]
A new Berwick-upon-Tweed Town Council was created on 1 April 2008 covering Berwick-upon-Tweed, Tweedmouth, and Spittal.[57] It has taken over the former Borough's mayoralty and regalia. The mayor for 2022–2023 is Mike Greener.[58]
Slightly more than 60% of the population is employed in the service sector, including shops, hotels and catering, financial services and most government activity, including health care. Some current and recent Berwick economic activities include salmon fishing, shipbuilding, engineering, sawmilling, fertilizer production, malting and the manufacture of tweed and hosiery.
Berwick town centre comprises the Mary Gate and High Street where many local shops and some retail chains exist. New office development has been built in the Walker Gate beside the library, which combined space with the Northumberland Adult Learning Centre and Tourism centre.[60]
There is a retail park in Tweedmouth consisting of a Homebase, Farm Foods, Marks and Spencer, Argos, Next, and Lidl. Berwick Borough Council refused a proposal from Asda in 2006 to build a store near the site,[61] but in 2008 gave Tesco planning permission for its new store in the town,[62] which opened on 13 September 2010. Asda went on to take over the Co-op shop unit in Tweedmouth in early 2010.
A Morrisons supermarket with a petrol station, alongside a branch of McDonald's, a Travelodge UK and an Aldi all exist on Loaning Meadows close to the outskirts of the town near the current A1. The Aldi outlet moved its operations to a new location in the newly constructed Loaning Meadows Retail Park which also hosts KFC and Costa Coffee drive-throughs, A Food Warehouse wholesale store, Greggs and a Home Bargains supermarket. The retail park is located adjacent to the Morrisons store.
The old A1 road passes through Berwick. The modern A1 goes around the town to the west. The town is on the East Coast Main Line railway and is served by Berwick-upon-Tweed railway station. A small seaport at Tweedmouth facilitates the import and export of goods but provides no passenger services. The port is protected by a long breakwater built in the 19th century, at the end of which is a red and white lighthouse. Completed in 1826, the Template:Cvt tower emits a white light every five seconds from a window overlooking the sea.[63] Seafarers' charity Apostleship of the Sea has a chaplain to support the needs of mariners arriving at the port.[64]
Bus services are mostly operated by Borders Buses (part of West Coast Motors) and Arriva providing both local and longer links. The town is also served by National Express coaches.
Culture
Berwick's identity
Berwick is famous for its hesitation over whether it is part of Scotland or England.[65] Some people are adamant they are English and their loyalty lies with Northumberland, while others feel an affinity with Scotland.[66] Whilst it has been argued that the town's geographic and historic place between the two has led to it developing a distinctive identity of its own,[67] many people in Berwick also have mixed Anglo-Scottish families which contributes to a sense of separate identity.[68] Historian Derek Sharman said "The people of Berwick feel really independent. You are a Berwicker first, Scottish or English second."[69] Former mayor Mike Elliot said "25% of the town consider themselves English, 25% Scottish and 50% Berwickers."[70] Professor Dominic Watt of the University of Aberdeen noted that: "Older people view themselves more as Scots than the younger people in Berwick, and this can be heard in their accents."[71]
In 2008, SNPMember of the Scottish Parliament (MSP) Christine Grahame made calls in the Scottish Parliament for Berwick to become part of Scotland again.[72] The Liberal Democrat MSP Jeremy Purvis, who was born and brought up in Berwick, asked for the border to be moved twenty miles south, stating: "There's a strong feeling that Berwick should be in Scotland. Until recently, I had a gran in Berwick and another in Kelso, and they could see that there were better public services in Scotland."[73] However, Alan Beith, the former MP for Berwick, said the move would require a massive legal upheaval and is not realistic.[74] Beith's successor as MP, Anne-Marie Trevelyan, said: "Voters in Berwick-upon-Tweed do not believe it is whether they are in England or Scotland that is important."[69]
Berwick dialect
The local speech of Berwick-upon-Tweed shares many characteristics with both other rural Northumberland dialects and East Central Scots.[75][76] In 1892, linguistRichard Oliver Heslop divided the county of Northumberland into four dialect zones and placed the Berwick dialect in the "north-Northumbrian" region, an area extending from Berwick down to the River Coquet.[77] Likewise, Charles Jones (1997) classes the dialect as "predominantly North-Northumbrian" with "a few features shared with Scots".[78]
Features of this dialect include the "Northumbrian burr", a distinct pronunciation of the letter R historically common to many dialects of North East England; and predominant non-rhoticity: older speakers tend to be slightly rhotic, while younger speakers are universally non-rhotic.[79][80]
A sociological study of the Anglo-Scottish border region conducted in 2000 found that locals of Alnwick, Template:Cvt south of Berwick, associated the Berwick accent with Scottish influence. Conversely, those from Eyemouth, Scotland, Template:Cvt north of Berwick, firmly classed Berwick speech as English, identifying it as "Northumbrian or Geordie".[81]
Speedway has taken place in Berwick in two separate eras. The sport was introduced to Shielfield Park in May 1968. A dispute between the speedway club and the stadium owners ended the first spell. The sport returned to Shielfield Park in the mid-1990s. The lack of a venue in the town saw the team move to a rural location called Berrington Lough. The team, known as the Bandits, have raced at all levels from First Division to Conference League (first to third levels).
Berwick-upon-Tweed's local newspaper is the Berwick Advertiser.
Relations with Russia
There is an apocryphal story that Berwick is (or recently has been) officially at war with Russia.[88] According to a story by George Hawthorne in The Guardian of 28 December 1966, the London correspondent of Pravda visited the Mayor of Berwick, Councillor Robert Knox, and the two made a mutual declaration of peace. Knox said, "Please tell the Russian people through your newspaper that they can sleep peacefully in their beds." The same story, cited to the Associated Press, appeared in The Baltimore Sun of 17 December 1966; The Washington Post of 18 December 1966; and The Christian Science Monitor of 22 December 1966. At some point, the real events seem to have been turned into a story of a "Soviet official" having signed a "peace treaty" with Knox; his remark to the Pravda correspondent was preserved in this version.[88][89]
The basis for such status was the claim that Berwick had changed hands several times, was traditionally regarded as a special, separate entity, and some proclamations referred to "England, Scotland and the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed". One such was the declaration of the Crimean War against Russia in 1853, which Queen Victoria supposedly signed as "Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, Ireland, Berwick-upon-Tweed and all British Dominions". When the Treaty of Paris was signed to conclude the war, "Berwick-upon-Tweed" was left out. This meant that, supposedly, one of Britain's smallest towns was officially at war with one of the world's largest powers – and the conflict extended by the lack of a peace treaty for over a century.[89] In reality, Berwick-upon-Tweed was not mentioned in either the declaration of war or the final peace treaty and was legally part of the United Kingdom for both.
Education
As with the rest of Northumberland, schools in Berwick have historically used the three-tier system, however the Berwick Partnership of schools is set to transition into a two-tier system as of September 2025, with Northumberland County Council investing £50 million into the project which will include an entirely new building for Berwick Academy.[90] Pupils may also commute across the Scottish border to Eyemouth or Berwickshire to attend secondary school.
Berwick Castle was built in the 13th century and rebuilt in the 1290s. It was in disrepair by the 17th century, and much of it was demolished in the 19th century to make way for the railway. However, substantial ruins remain just outside the town's rampart walls to the west by the river.
Berwick town walls and Tudor ramparts are some of the country's finest remaining examples of their type.
Holy Trinity Parish Church, unusual for having been built during the Commonwealth of England. It was built in 1648–1652 with stone from the 13th-century castle. It was originally a plain "preaching box", with no steeple, stained glass or other decorations. Contents include a pulpit thought to have been built for John Knox during his stay in the town. The church was much altered in 1855 with many new windows and the addition of a chancel.
Berwick Town Hall, designed by S&J Worrell and built in 1754–1760. The building is neoclassical, and originally the town's prison was on the top floor. The tower above the council chamber has a ring of eight bells and a curfew bell. Lester and Pack of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry cast the tenor, third, fourth and treble bells in 1754 and the fifth and sixth bells in 1759. Charles Carr of Smethwick cast the second and curfew bells in 1894. Mears and Stainbank of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry cast the seventh bell in 1901.[91]
Dewars Lane Granary, built in 1769, now restored as a hotel and art gallery.[92]
The Corn Exchange in Sandgate, completed in 1858, and converted into apartments in the late 1990s.[95]
St Andrew's Church, Wallace Green was built in 1859 and is one of only eight Church of Scotland congregations in England.
The Masonic Hall was built in 1872 for the town's St David's Masonic Lodge for £1,800. The lodge still owns the hall and is also used by other Masonic lodges and orders. It is one of few purpose-built Masonic halls in the country and is a scarce example of Victorian Masonic architecture. It has a large pipe organ built in 1895. The Hall contains many artefacts and documents concerning Freemasonry in the town, which can be traced back to 1643.
The Royal Tweed Bridge, built in 1925 to carry the A1 road across the Tweed. Its span is Template:Cvt, which at the time was the longest concrete span. The A1 now bypasses the town to the west. In the early 2000s, the bridge was renovated, the road and pavement layout revised, and new street lighting added.
Dewars Lane runs down Back Street just off Bridge Street. Like other Berwick locations, it was painted by L. S. Lowry, who visited Berwick.[96]
There are numerous sea caves on the coastline to the north of Berwick, with lengths up to 67 metres. The caves are found in the cliffs from Green's Haven to the Scottish border at Marshall Meadows Bay.[97]
John Leonard (born 1857), architect, born in Berwick
Eric Lomax, the author of The Railway Man, lived in Berwick-upon-Tweed
Alan Martin, co-creator of the comic and movie character Tank Girl, lives in Berwick
W. H. Paxton (1844–1887), prominent Australian businessman
Jeremy Purvis, Liberal Democrat MSP, and youngest person in Scottish Parliament at time of election. Since 2013 Purvis has been a life peer in the House of Lords, sitting on the Liberal Democrat benches.
James Redpath American anti-slavery activist and journalist, born in Berwick
Ian Sarfas, English darts player, played in the 1994 BDO World Darts Championships
Trevor Steven, England and Everton footballer, born in Berwick
Climate
Berwick-upon-Tweed has a maritime climate with narrow temperature differences between seasons. Because of its far northern position in England coupled with considerable North Sea influence, the area has very cool summers for an English location, with a subdued July (1991–2020) high of Template:Cvt, more resembling a Scottish climate. January, in turn, has a high of Template:Cvt with a low of Template:Cvt. Rainfall is relatively low by British standards, with Template:Cvt on average; nonetheless, sunshine is limited to an average of 1535.4 hours per annum. All data are sourced from the Berwick-upon-Tweed station operated by the Met Office.[98]
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