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[[File:Millinery Deaprtment, second floor, Summit St.; The Lion Store, Toledo, O. - DPLA - b299683c9a281410af279a3384bdb23a (page 1) (cropped).jpg|thumb|right|Millinery Department at the Lion Store of Toledo, Ohio, 1900s]][[File:Edgar Degas - The Millinery Shop - Google Art Project.jpg|thumb|''[[The Millinery Shop]]'' by Edgar Degas]] | [[File:Millinery Deaprtment, second floor, Summit St.; The Lion Store, Toledo, O. - DPLA - b299683c9a281410af279a3384bdb23a (page 1) (cropped).jpg|thumb|right|Millinery Department at the Lion Store of Toledo, Ohio, 1900s]][[File:Edgar Degas - The Millinery Shop - Google Art Project.jpg|thumb|''[[The Millinery Shop]]'' by Edgar Degas]] | ||
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</ref> In France, milliners are known as ''marchand(e)s de modes'' ([[fashion merchant]]s), rather than being specifically associated with hat-making. In Britain, however, milliners were known to specialize in hats by the beginning of the [[Victorian era|Victorian period]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Adburgham |first=Alison |title=Shops and shopping: 1800 - 1914 ; where, and in what manner the well-dressed Englishwoman bought her clothes |date=1989 |publisher=Barrie & Jenkins |isbn=978-0-7126-2114-4 |edition=2nd |location=London |pages=27}}</ref> | </ref> In France, milliners are known as ''marchand(e)s de modes'' ([[fashion merchant]]s), rather than being specifically associated with hat-making. In Britain, however, milliners were known to specialize in hats by the beginning of the [[Victorian era|Victorian period]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Adburgham |first=Alison |title=Shops and shopping: 1800 - 1914 ; where, and in what manner the well-dressed Englishwoman bought her clothes |date=1989 |publisher=Barrie & Jenkins |isbn=978-0-7126-2114-4 |edition=2nd |location=London |pages=27}}</ref> | ||
The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the 19th century.<ref>{{Cite web|date= 2009-03-26|title= Straw Millinery|url=https://annaworden.com/pdf-pages/straw-bonnet-links/|access-date= 2020-10-22|website= If I Had My Own Blue Box|language=en}}</ref> In 1889 in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery. Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since hats began to be mass-manufactured and sold as ready-to-wear in [[Department store|department stores]], the term "milliner" is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele. | The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the 19th century.<ref>{{Cite web|date= 2009-03-26|title= Straw Millinery|url=https://annaworden.com/pdf-pages/straw-bonnet-links/|access-date= 2020-10-22|website= If I Had My Own Blue Box|language=en}}</ref> {{Citation needed span|text= In 1889, in London and Paris, over 8,000 women were employed in millinery, and in 1900 in New York, some 83,000 people, mostly women, were employed in millinery.|date=June 2025}}Though the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since hats began to be mass-manufactured and sold as ready-to-wear in [[Department store|department stores]], the term "milliner" is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele. | ||
Many prominent [[fashion designer]]s, including [[Rose Bertin]], [[Jeanne Lanvin]], and [[Coco Chanel]], began as milliners. | Many prominent [[fashion designer]]s, including [[Rose Bertin]], [[Jeanne Lanvin]], and [[Coco Chanel]], began as milliners. | ||
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===Milliners=== | ===Milliners=== | ||
* [[Kate Bartholomew]] | * [[Kate Bartholomew]] – American hat designer; created the "Jazz Cap" | ||
* [[Vanilla Beane]] | * [[Vanilla Beane]] – American milliner in [[Washington, D.C.]]; served the [[African American]] community and notable [[Civil rights movement|civil rights activists]], among others | ||
* [[Anna Ben-Yusuf]] – wrote ''The Art of Millinery'' (1909), one of the first reference books on millinery technique<ref name="hats">Jones, Stephen & {{cite book| editor-last = Cullen| editor-first = Oriole | title = Hats: An Anthology| publisher = V&A Publishing| year = 2009| isbn =978-1-85177-557-6}}</ref> | |||
* [[Anna Ben-Yusuf]] wrote ''The Art of Millinery'' (1909), one of the first reference books on millinery technique | * [[Rose Bertin]] – milliner and modiste to [[Marie Antoinette]]; often described as the world's first celebrity fashion designer<ref>{{cite book|last=Steele|first=Valerie|title=The Berg Companion to Fashion|year=2010|publisher=Berg|isbn=978-1847885920|pages=72–73|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hemsvn9ZbRkC&pg=PA72 <!--|author=Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell-->|author-link=Rose Bertin|access-date=9 June 2012}}</ref> | ||
* [[Rose Bertin]] | * [[Mildred Blount]] – first African-American milliner to design hats for Hollywood films ''[[Gone with the Wind (film)|Gone with the Wind]]'' and ''[[The Easter Parade]]''; clientele included [[Joan Crawford]], [[Louise Beavers]], [[Marian Anderson]], [[Gloria Vanderbilt]], and other Hollywood stars<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-09-07|title=Mildred Blount: First African American to Make Hats for Celebrities|url=http://blackthen.com/mildred-blount-first-african-american-to-make-hats-for-celebrities/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=Black Then|language=en-US}}</ref> | ||
* [[ | * [[John Boyd (milliner)|John Boyd]] – London milliner; known for the pink tricorn hat worn by [[Diana, Princess of Wales]]<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/john-boyd/|title=John Boyd|work=The FMD – FashionModelDirectory.com}}</ref> | ||
* [[John Boyd ( | * [[Coco Chanel]] – creator of the [[Chanel]] fashion house, and of [[Chanel No.5]] perfume | ||
* [[Lilly Daché]] | * [[Lilly Daché]] – American milliner of the mid-20th century | ||
* [[Frederick Fox (milliner)|Frederick Fox]] | * [[Frederick Fox (milliner)|Frederick Fox]] – Australian-born milliner; noted for his designs for the [[British royal family]] | ||
* [[ | * [[Akio Hirata]] – Japanese milliner; collaborated with many Japanese fashion designers, including [[Yohji Yamamoto]] and [[Rei Kawakubo]]; also created and designed hats for Japanese [[Empress Michiko]] since 1966<ref>{{Cite web|title=Akio Hirata – Fashion Designer {{!}} Designers {{!}} The FMD|url=https://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/akio-hirata/|access-date=2020-10-22|website=The FMD – FashionModelDirectory.com}}</ref> | ||
* [[Mr. John]] | * [[Mr. John]] – American milliner; considered by some to be the millinery equivalent of [[Christian Dior]] in the 1940s and 1950s<ref>{{cite news|url=https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F0CEED71E3DF93AA15755C0A965958260|title=Mr. John, 91, Hat Designer for Stars and Society|work= [[The New York Times]] |date=29 June 1993|last1=Schiro |first1=Anne-Marie }}</ref> | ||
* [[Stephen Jones (milliner)|Stephen Jones]] | * [[Stephen Jones (milliner)|Stephen Jones]] – London milliner; considered one of the world's most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries<ref name=vambio>[http://www.vam.ac.uk/microsites/hats-anthology/the-exhibition/stephen-jones.html Biography of Stephen Jones] on the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April 2009</ref> | ||
* [[Simone Mirman]] | * [[Simone Mirman]] – known for her designs for [[Elizabeth II]] and other members of the [[British royal family]] | ||
* [[Barbara Pauli]] | * [[Barbara Pauli]] – fashion milliner and modiste in Sweden during the [[Gustavian era]] | ||
* [[Caroline Reboux]] | * [[Caroline Reboux]] – milliner of the 19th and early 20th centuries | ||
* [[David Shilling]] | * [[David Shilling]] – milliner, artist and designer, based in Monaco<ref>{{cite news | url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1985-10-13-tm-15535-story.html | title=Hat Trick | newspaper=[[LA Times]] | date=13 October 1985 | access-date=24 January 2013 | author=Hillier, Bevis| author-link=Bevis Hillier }}</ref> | ||
* [[Justin Smith (milliner)|Justin Smith]] | * [[Justin Smith (milliner)|Justin Smith]] – milliner creating bespoke and couture hats under the J Smith Esquire brand | ||
* [[Philip Treacy]] Irish-born milliner; first milliner for | * [[Gladys Tamez]] – Mexican-American milliner; notable for her work with [[Beyoncé]], [[Lady Gaga]], [[Kendall Jenner]], among others | ||
* [[Philip Treacy]] – Irish-born milliner; first milliner for eighty years to be invited to exhibit at the Paris haute couture shows<ref name="guar">{{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2002/apr/16/fashion|title=Who wants to be a milliner|work=[[The Guardian]]|author=Cartner-Morley, Jess |date=16 April 2002|quote=He has created hats to accompany the catwalk collections of Alexander McQueen and Valentino, has been named British Accessory Designer of the Year five times, and was the first milliner in 80 years to be invited by French fashion's governing body, the Chambre Syndicale, to take part in the Parisian haute couture shows}}</ref> | |||
==See also== | ==See also== | ||
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* [[Mad as a hatter]] | * [[Mad as a hatter]] | ||
* [[Marchandes de modes]] | * [[Marchandes de modes]] | ||
* [[Walter Wright Hats]] | * [[Walter Wright Hats]] | ||
Latest revision as of 10:55, 30 June 2025
Template:Short description Script error: No such module "redirect hatnote". Script error: No such module "redirect hatnote". Script error: No such module "redirect hatnote". Template:Use dmy dates Template:More citations needed Template:Sister project
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Hat-making or millinery is the design, manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear.[1] A person engaged in this trade is called a milliner or hatter.
Historically, milliners made and sold a range of accessories for clothing and hairstyles.[2] In France, milliners are known as marchand(e)s de modes (fashion merchants), rather than being specifically associated with hat-making. In Britain, however, milliners were known to specialize in hats by the beginning of the Victorian period.[3]
The millinery industry benefited from industrialization during the 19th century.[4] Template:Citation needed spanThough the improvements in technology provided benefits to milliners and the whole industry, essential skills, craftsmanship, and creativity are still required. Since hats began to be mass-manufactured and sold as ready-to-wear in department stores, the term "milliner" is usually used to describe a person who applies traditional hand-craftsmanship to design, make, sell or trim hats primarily for a mostly female clientele.
Many prominent fashion designers, including Rose Bertin, Jeanne Lanvin, and Coco Chanel, began as milliners.
Origin
The term "milliner" or "Milener" originally meant someone from Milan, in northern Italy, in the early 16th century. It referred to Milanese merchants who sold fancy bonnets, gloves, jewellery and cutlery. In the 16th to 18th centuries, the meaning of "milliner" gradually changed in meaning from "a foreign merchant" to "a dealer in small articles relating to dress". Although the term originally applied to men, from 1713 "milliner" gradually came to mean a woman who makes and sells bonnets and other accessories for women.[5][6]
Learning of millinery
Milliners work independently based on job order specifications or their designs, observing the regulations regarding work safety, health protection, environmental protection, and ensuring quality and efficiency. They combine their uniqueness, innovation, and technical skills and use different materials and auxiliary materials. In some cases, they plan and organize their schedules in cooperation with their customers' various needs. They also collaborate with the team or the apprentice to the presentation and sale of the products.[7]
The millinery industry's apprenticeship culture is commonly seen since the 18th century, while milliner was more like a stylist and created hats or bonnets to go with costumes and chose the laces, trims, and accessories to complete an ensemble piece. Millinery apprentices learned hat-making and styling, running the business, and skills to communicate with customers.[8] Nowadays, this apprenticeship is still a standard process for the students who freshly graduated from the millinery schools. Many well-known milliners experienced this stage. For example, Rose Bertin was an apprentice to a successful fashion merchant Mademoiselle Pagelle before her success.
There are many renowned millinery schools located in Europe, especially in London, Paris, and Italy. During COVID-19, many millinery courses were taught virtually.[9]
Special tools and materials used by milliners
A wooden hat block is an intricately carved wood form shaped by skillful woodworkers. Hat blocks are the tools of the trade for milliners in creating a unique hat crown shape. Some of the hat blocks are ensembles with crown and brimmed, while some are only with crown or brim or designed for fascinators. Milliners always have an extensive collection of different hat blocks because there are specific hat sizes and custom shapes for every hat block. In the blocking process of a hat, milliners used push pins and a hammer to hold the adjustable string along the crown's collar and the brim's edge.[10]
A floral-making iron is a unique iron used by milliners to create different floral petals or leaves as the ornament for hat decoration. In the past, candles were used to heat these irons with various shapes of metal in one set. Nowadays, these irons are electric. A ball-shaped metal heading is commonly used for the curve of floral pastels.[11]
Milliners often use buckram, a stiff cotton (occasionally linen or horse hair) cloth with a loose weave. Millinery buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a hat block, and left to dry into a hard shape.[12] Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats),[13] single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as theatrical buckram or crown buckram).[14]
Notable hatters and milliners
This is a partial list of people who have had a significant influence on hat-making and millinery.
Hatters
- International Hat Company, an American manufacturer credited with inventing one of America's most popular early 20th century harvest hats for field hands, farmers, and workmen.
- Hawley Products Company, an American manufacturer credited with inventing the tropical shaped, pressed fiber sun helmet used from World War II through the Persian Gulf War.
- John Cavanagh, an American hatter whose innovations included manufacturing regular, long and wide-oval fitting hats to enable customers to find better-fitting ready-to-wear hats.
- James Lock & Co. of London (founded 1676), is credited with the introduction of the bowler hat in 1849.[15]
- JJ Hat Center in New York (founded 1911) an American hat maker, which claims to be New York City's oldest hat store.[16]
- Teofilo Garcia, recognized as a National Living Treasure in the Philippines for pioneering the tabungaw hat, a headwear made from gourd.[17]
- John Batterson Stetson, credited with inventing the classic cowboy hat[18]
- Giuseppe Borsalino, with the famous "Borsalino" Fedora hat.
Milliners
- Kate Bartholomew – American hat designer; created the "Jazz Cap"
- Vanilla Beane – American milliner in Washington, D.C.; served the African American community and notable civil rights activists, among others
- Anna Ben-Yusuf – wrote The Art of Millinery (1909), one of the first reference books on millinery technique[19]
- Rose Bertin – milliner and modiste to Marie Antoinette; often described as the world's first celebrity fashion designer[20]
- Mildred Blount – first African-American milliner to design hats for Hollywood films Gone with the Wind and The Easter Parade; clientele included Joan Crawford, Louise Beavers, Marian Anderson, Gloria Vanderbilt, and other Hollywood stars[21]
- John Boyd – London milliner; known for the pink tricorn hat worn by Diana, Princess of Wales[22]
- Coco Chanel – creator of the Chanel fashion house, and of Chanel No.5 perfume
- Lilly Daché – American milliner of the mid-20th century
- Frederick Fox – Australian-born milliner; noted for his designs for the British royal family
- Akio Hirata – Japanese milliner; collaborated with many Japanese fashion designers, including Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo; also created and designed hats for Japanese Empress Michiko since 1966[23]
- Mr. John – American milliner; considered by some to be the millinery equivalent of Christian Dior in the 1940s and 1950s[24]
- Stephen Jones – London milliner; considered one of the world's most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries[25]
- Simone Mirman – known for her designs for Elizabeth II and other members of the British royal family
- Barbara Pauli – fashion milliner and modiste in Sweden during the Gustavian era
- Caroline Reboux – milliner of the 19th and early 20th centuries
- David Shilling – milliner, artist and designer, based in Monaco[26]
- Justin Smith – milliner creating bespoke and couture hats under the J Smith Esquire brand
- Gladys Tamez – Mexican-American milliner; notable for her work with Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Kendall Jenner, among others
- Philip Treacy – Irish-born milliner; first milliner for eighty years to be invited to exhibit at the Paris haute couture shows[27]
See also
- Draper
- Haberdasher
- Hat Works
- Mad hatter disease
- Mad as a hatter
- Marchandes de modes
- Walter Wright Hats
References
External links
- All Sewn Up: Millinery, Dressmaking, Clothing and Costume
- 18th Century millinery
- Popular Science, November 1941, "Pulling Hats Out Of Rabbits" article on modern mass production hat making
- Individuality in millinery, a 1923 book on hat-making from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (fully available online as PDF)
- Millinery guide (UK)
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- ↑ Template:Oed - "2. Originally: a seller of fancy wares, accessories, and articles of (female) apparel, esp. such as were originally made in Milan. Subsequently: spec. a person who designs, makes, or sells women's hats."
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- ↑ Template:Cite newsletter
- ↑ Bowler hat makes a comeback Telegraph (London). Retrieved 9 June 2012
- ↑ The City Visible | The Hatters NYT (New York). Retrieved 4 August 2023
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- ↑ Reynolds, William and Rich Rand (1995) The Cowboy Hat book. p. 8 Template:ISBN
- ↑ Jones, Stephen & Script error: No such module "citation/CS1".
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- ↑ Biography of Stephen Jones on the V&A Museum website, accessed 1 April 2009
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