Chogolisa: Difference between revisions
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| photo = Chogolisa.jpg | | photo = Chogolisa.jpg | ||
| photo_caption = Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of [[K2]] | | photo_caption = Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of [[K2]] | ||
| elevation_m = 7665 | | elevation_m = 7665 | ||
| elevation_ref = <ref name=evnews/><br /><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 36th]]</small> | | elevation_ref = <ref name=evnews/><br /><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 36th]]</small> | ||
| prominence_m = 1624 | | prominence_m = 1624 | ||
| prominence_ref = <ref name=peaklist>{{cite web|url=http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/karakoram.html|title=Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences|publisher=peaklist.org|access-date=2010-08-05}}</ref> | | prominence_ref = <ref name=peaklist>{{cite web|url=http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/karakoram.html|title=Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences|publisher=peaklist.org|access-date=2010-08-05}}</ref> | ||
| listing = [[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]] | | listing = {{ubl|[[List of mountains in Pakistan|Mountains of Pakistan]]|[[Ultra-prominent peak|Ultra]]}} | ||
| range = [[Karakoram]] | | range = [[Karakoram]] | ||
| location = [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], [[Pakistan]] | |||
| map = Pakistan#Gilgit Baltistan | |||
| map_caption = Location in Gilgit-Baltistan | |||
| map_image={{Karakoram OSM}} | |||
| map_size = 270 | |||
| label_position = left | |||
| coordinates = {{coord|35|36|51|N|76|34|45|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | | coordinates = {{coord|35|36|51|N|76|34|45|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} | ||
| coordinates_ref = <ref name=peaklist/> | | coordinates_ref = <ref name=peaklist/> | ||
| first_ascent = August 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)<br />1958 (Chogolisa II) | | first_ascent = August 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)<br />1958 (Chogolisa II) | ||
| easiest_route = Rock/snow/ice climb | | easiest_route = Rock/snow/ice climb | ||
}} | }} | ||
{{chinese|s=乔戈里萨峰|t=喬戈里薩峰}} | |||
'''Chogolisa''' ({{langx|ur|{{nq|چوگولیزا}}}} derived from ''Chogo Ling Sa''; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal [[mountain]] located in the [[Karakoram]] range within the [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] region of Pakistan. It is situated near the [[Baltoro Glacier]] in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks. | '''Chogolisa''' ({{langx|ur|{{nq|چوگولیزا}}}} derived from ''Chogo Ling Sa''; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal [[mountain]] located in the [[Karakoram]] range within the [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] region of Pakistan. It is situated near the [[Baltoro Glacier]] in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks. | ||
Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of 7,665 | Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of {{convert|7,665|m|ft|0}}. On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at {{cvt|7,654|m}} in height and was named "Bride Peak" by [[Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington|Martin Conway]] in 1892.<ref>{{cite book | title = Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas | date=1894| first = Sir William Martin | last = Conway |publisher =Unwin | access-date = 26 April 2024 | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=de1BAAAAYAAJ }}</ref> | ||
__NOTOC__<!-- 2025-06-26 --> | |||
== Climbing History == | |||
In 1909, a party led by [[Duke of the Abruzzi]] reached {{convert|7498|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new [[World altitude record (mountaineering)|world altitude record]]<ref name=evnews>{{cite web|url=http://www.everestnews.com/stories004sec4002/chogolisa12122003.htm|publisher=Everest News|title=Chogolisa/Bride Peak|access-date=2004-01-03}}</ref> which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when [[George Mallory|Mallory]], [[Edward F. Norton|Norton]] and [[Howard Somervell|Somervell]] reached {{convert|8200|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} on the [[1922 British Mount Everest expedition]].<ref>{{cite book | title = Mountain World 1966/7 | date=1968| editor-first = Malcom | editor-last =Barnes | first = Anders| last=Bolinder |publisher =George Allen and Unwin Ltd |pages=228 | chapter= Height Records | url =https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/The_Mountain_World/02zwAAAAMAAJ | access-date = 10 February 2025 }}</ref> | In 1909, a party led by [[Duke of the Abruzzi]] reached {{convert|7498|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new [[World altitude record (mountaineering)|world altitude record]]<ref name=evnews>{{cite web|url=http://www.everestnews.com/stories004sec4002/chogolisa12122003.htm|publisher=Everest News|title=Chogolisa/Bride Peak|access-date=2004-01-03}}</ref> which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when [[George Mallory|Mallory]], [[Edward F. Norton|Norton]] and [[Howard Somervell|Somervell]] reached {{convert|8200|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} on the [[1922 British Mount Everest expedition]].<ref>{{cite book | title = Mountain World 1966/7 | date=1968| editor-first = Malcom | editor-last =Barnes | first = Anders| last=Bolinder |publisher =George Allen and Unwin Ltd |pages=228 | chapter= Height Records | url =https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/The_Mountain_World/02zwAAAAMAAJ | access-date = 10 February 2025 }}</ref> | ||
Austrian mountaineers [[Hermann Buhl]] and [[Kurt Diemberger]] attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted [[Broad Peak]] behind [[Marcus Schmuck]] and [[Fritz Wintersteller]] a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big [[cornice (climbing)|cornice]] and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face.<ref>{{cite journal | title = Broad Peak and Chogolisa 1957 | journal =Himalayan Journal| | Austrian mountaineers [[Hermann Buhl]] and [[Kurt Diemberger]] attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted [[Broad Peak]] behind [[Marcus Schmuck]] and [[Fritz Wintersteller]] a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big [[cornice (climbing)|cornice]] and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face.<ref>{{cite journal | title = Broad Peak and Chogolisa 1957 | journal =[[Himalayan Journal]]| year= 1958| first=Kurt | last=Diemberger | volume =#21 |pages= 1–15 | access-date = 27 April 2024 |url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/21/1/broad-peak-and-chogolisa-1957}}</ref> His body has never been found.<ref name=evnews/> | ||
On August 4, 1958, a [[Japan]]ese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club [[Kyoto University]] led by Takeo Kuwabara ([[:ja:桑原武夫|桑原武夫]]) made the [[first ascent]] of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.<ref> | On August 4, 1958, a [[Japan]]ese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club [[Kyoto University]] led by Takeo Kuwabara ([[:ja:桑原武夫|桑原武夫]]) made the [[first ascent]] of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.<ref name=aj_1959>{{cite journal|url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1959_files/AJ64%201959%20168-174%20Kuwabara%20Chogolisa.pdf|title=The First Ascent of Chogolisa|first=Takeo|last=Kuwabara|journal=The Alpine Journal|year=1959|page=168}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=Japanese Conquer Mountain|publisher=The New York Times|date=August 20, 1958|page=7}}</ref><ref name=aaj_1959>{{cite aaj|article_id=12195924300|title=Japanese Alpinists in the Himalaya|first=Takeo|last=Kuwabara|year=1959|volume=11|issue=2|pages=243|access-date=2025-06-26}}</ref> | ||
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an [[Austria]]n expedition led by [[Eduard Koblmueller]]. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.<ref name=evnews/> | The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an [[Austria]]n expedition led by [[Eduard Koblmueller]]. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.<ref name=aaj_1976>{{cite aaj|article_id=12197653701|title=Chogolisa|first=Eduard|last=Koblmüller|author-link=Eduard Koblmueller|year=1976|volume=20|issue=2|pages=537|links=off|access-date=2025-06-26}}</ref><ref name=evnews/> | ||
==See also== | ==See also== | ||
* [[List of highest mountains]] | * [[List of highest mountains]] | ||
* [[List of | * [[List of ultras of the Karakoram and Hindu Kush]] | ||
==References== | ==References== | ||
| Line 56: | Line 53: | ||
[[Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan]] | [[Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan]] | ||
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram]] | [[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram]] | ||
Latest revision as of 16:39, 26 June 2025
Template:Short description Template:Infobox mountain Template:Chinese Chogolisa (Template:Langx derived from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is situated near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks.
Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of Template:Convert. On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at Template:Cvt in height and was named "Bride Peak" by Martin Conway in 1892.[1]
Climbing History
In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached Template:Convert from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record[2] which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when Mallory, Norton and Somervell reached Template:Convert on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition.[3]
Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face.[4] His body has never been found.[2]
On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.[5][6][7]
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.[8][2]
See also
References
External links
- Chogolisa on Peakware
- Chogolisa das Grab Hermann Buhls auf BroadPeak.at (German Language)
- Northern Pakistan detailed placemarks in Google Earth Template:Webarchive
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