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{{Short description|Colorless diamond found in India}}
{{EngvarB|date=March 2014}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=March 2014}}

{{Infobox diamond
| image =
| caption =
| name = Briolette of India
| carats = 90.38
| grams = 18.08
| color = D (colorless)
| cut = briolette
| mine = India
| country ={{flag|India}}
| cutter =
| original_owner = The earliest reported owner is [[Eleanor of Aquitaine]]
| owner = Heidi Horten
| value = US $7 million (2023)
}}
The '''Briolette of India''' is a colorless diamond (weighing {{convert|90.38|carat|g}}) that was found in India. It is [[Cut (gems)|cut]] in a [[briolette]] shape, and is a D-coloured (colourless) [[Diamond type|type IIa diamond]].<ref name="internetstones">{{cite web |title=Briolette of India Diamond |url=http://www.internetstones.com/briolette-of-india-diamond-famous-jewelry.html |accessdate=16 November 2008 |publisher=Internet Stones}}</ref> Its history was thought to date from the 12th century, when it was first acquired by [[Eleanor of Aquitaine]], the Queen consort of King [[Louis VII of France]] between 1137 and 1152. This makes the Briolette of India the oldest diamond on record in the world, even older than the famous [[Koh-i-Noor]].<ref name="internetstones" /><ref name="DiamondDictionary.org">{{cite web|url=http://diamonddictionary.org/content/view/217/52/|title=Briolette|date=14 September 2007|publisher=DiamondDictionary.org|accessdate=19 March 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101103161943/http://diamonddictionary.org/content/view/217/52|archive-date=3 November 2010|url-status=dead}}</ref>

The diamond was in the possession of several famous historical figures such as King [[Richard the Lion Heart]], who carried it with him to the [[Third Crusade]], and King [[Henry II of France]] who presented it to his [[Mistress (lover)|mistress]] [[Diane de Poitiers]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.jeweler.com/acb2/stores/11/resources.asp |title=Diamond Facts |accessdate=16 November 2008 |publisher=Jeweler.com |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081223232042/http://www.jeweler.com/acb2/stores/11/resources.asp |archive-date=23 December 2008 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

The Briolette of India has disappeared from records for long periods, sometimes even for several centuries, before resurfacing again. It was last owned by Austrian heiress [[Heidi Horten]], until auctioned by [[Christie's]] in June 2023 where it sold for 6.6 million Swiss Francs. Its current ownership has not been publicly stated.<ref name=":0" />

==Early history==
Modern reports of the diamond's history speculate that it dates to the 12th century, when it is said to have first been acquired and brought to England by [[Eleanor of Aquitaine]], the queen consort of King [[Louis VII of France]].<ref name="peora">{{cite web|url=http://indianbeautifulart.com/jewelry.html |title=The Briolette of India |accessdate=16 November 2008 |publisher=Peora |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120727041100/http://indianbeautifulart.com/jewelry.html |archivedate=27 July 2012 }}</ref><ref name="history">{{cite web |url=http://www.diamonds-are-forever.org.uk/history-of-diamonds.htm |title=History Timeline of Diamonds |accessdate=16 November 2008 |publisher=Diamonds are Forever }}</ref> If Eleanor of Acquitaine did come into possession of the diamond, it was probably between 1137 and 1152, which would make the Briolette of India the oldest diamond on record.<ref name="internetstones" /><ref name="ygoy" /> After her marriage to the King of France was dissolved, Eleanor married [[Henry II of England]], to whom she bore eight children including [[Richard I of England]] (Richard the Lionheart) who is said to have later acquired the diamond. Modern sources speculate that King Richard I carried the Briolette of India with him when he took part in the [[Third Crusade]].<ref name="internetstones" /><ref name="ygoy">{{cite web |url=http://diamonds.ygoy.com/2007/10/06/the-old-briolette-of-india-diamond/ |title=The Old Briolette of India Diamond |accessdate=19 November 2008 |publisher=YGOY |date=6 October 2007 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071123052043/http://diamonds.ygoy.com/2007/10/06/the-old-briolette-of-india-diamond/ |archive-date=23 November 2007 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

The diamond's history was not recorded for almost three centuries after it passed from Richard I's possession. Modern sources resume the story of the diamond from the late 16th century, when [[Henry II of France]] is said to have presented it to his mistress, [[Diane de Poitiers]].<ref name="ygoy" /> After Henry II's death, his queen consort, [[Catherine de Medicis]], forced Poitiers to surrender the diamond as well as other jewels given her by the monarch. The jewels that were surrendered may have included the Briolette of India.<ref name="internetstones" />

==The diamond in the 20th century==
According to historian Hans Nadelhoffer, the Briolette of India was cut into its distinctive shape in Neuilly, Paris and sold to [[Cartier SA|Cartier]], along with another diamond called the Blue Heart (aka Unzue Heart).<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mnh.si.edu/earth/text/dynamicearth/6_0_0_geogallery/geogallery_specimen.cfm?SpecimenID=4002&categoryID=1&categoryName=Gems&browseType=name|title=The Dynamic Earth @ National Museum of Natural History|access-date=2 March 2012|archive-date=25 December 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111225202655/http://www.mnh.si.edu/earth/text/dynamicearth/6_0_0_GeoGallery/geogallery_specimen.cfm?SpecimenID=4002&categoryID=1&categoryName=Gems&browseType=name|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>Hans Nadelhoffer, ''Cartier'' (Chronicle Books, 2007), page 259</ref> "Initially set as a pendant with a 126-grain pearl," Nadelhoffer writes, "the splendid stone was combined the following year [1910] with two 22-carat emeralds and the same pearl to form a brooch, which was sent to the New York branch [of Cartier]. In 1911, Cartier's sold it to [American financier] [[Florence Meyer Blumenthal|George Blumenthal]]", who presented it to his wife, [[Florence Meyer Blumenthal]].<ref name="Hans Nadelhoffer 2007 page 321">Hans Nadelhoffer, ''Cartier'' (Chronicle Books, 2007), page 321</ref>

The Briolette resurfaced in 1950, when it was acquired by New York jeweler [[Harry Winston]].<ref name="Hans Nadelhoffer 2007 page 321"/> Winston sold the diamond to the wife of Canadian millionaire [[Izaak Walton Killam|I. W. Killam]] and bought it back from [[Dorothy J. Killam]]'s estate ten years later, after her death.<ref name="internetstones" />

In July 1967, the Briolette of India was illustrated in a photograph by [[Richard Avedon]]. The image depicts Anglo-American fashion model [[Penelope Tree]] holding the unset stone before her right eye.<ref>Cathy Horyn, "How Avedon Blurred His Own Image", ''The New York Times'', 13 May 2009</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/05/13/fashion/20090514-avedon-feature/index.html|title = Through the Eyes of Richard Avedon - the New York Times|website = [[The New York Times]]}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://denverlibrary.org/content/whos-girl |title=Who's That Girl? | Denver Public Library |access-date=2 March 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110807004818/http://denverlibrary.org/content/whos-girl |archive-date=7 August 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

Harry Winston exhibited the Briolette in 1970 at a dinner organized for American fashion editors.<ref name="ygoy" /> A year later the firm sold it to a European client.<ref name="Hans Nadelhoffer 2007 page 321"/>

==Today==
The diamond was bought by Austrian billionaire collector [[Heidi Horten]], who passed away in 2022.<ref>{{Cite web |title=CHRISTIE'S PRESENTS THE LARGEST AND MOST VALUABLE PRIVATE JEWELLERY COLLECTION TO COME TO AUCTION |url=https://www.christies.com/about-us/press-archive/details?PressReleaseID=10832}}</ref> The diamond was sold at auction by [[Christie's]] in June 2023, fetching $7 million, below its estimate.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |title=Heidi Horten jewellery collection to be auctioned at Christie's |url=https://somethingaboutrocks.com/article/heidi-horten-jewellery-collection-to-be-auctioned-at-christies/ |access-date=2023-04-02 |website=Something About Rocks |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last1=Holland |first1=Oscar |last2=Orie |first2=Amarachi |date=2023-05-15 |title=Controversial jewelry collection fetches a record-shattering $201 million |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/heidi-horten-jewelry-auction-record/index.html |access-date=2023-07-17 |website=CNN |language=en}}</ref>

==Characteristics==
The Briolette of India is a colourless (D-coloured), clear diamond. It is cut in a briolette shape, an exaggerated form of double [[rose cut]]. The diamond weighs {{convert|90.38|carat|g}}. It is D-color and a type IIa diamond, which are the purest type of diamonds with no chemical impurities or plastic deformations in the crystal. Because of its pureness, it is even known as the "purest of the pure".<ref name="internetstones" /> When last seen, the diamond was being used as the pendant of a necklace, along with another diamond and a large [[pearl]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://diamonds.ygoy.com/2007/10/06/the-old-briolette-of-india-diamond/ |title=The Old Briolette of India Diamond |accessdate=16 November 2008 |publisher=Ygoy |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071123052043/http://diamonds.ygoy.com/2007/10/06/the-old-briolette-of-india-diamond/ |archive-date=23 November 2007 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

==See also==
* [[List of diamonds]]

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
*[[Encyc: Briolette of India]]

{{DEFAULTSORT:Briolette of India}}
[[Category:12th-century works]]
[[Category:Individual diamonds]]
[[Category:Golconda diamonds]]
[[Category:Eleanor of Aquitaine]]

Briolette of India - Revision history

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