View source for Spetses

{{redirect|Spetsai|ships with the name|Greek ship Spetsai}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2020}}
{{Infobox Greek Dimos
| name              = Spetses
| name_local        = {{lang|el|Σπέτσες|italic=no}}
|type = municipality
| city_flag         = 1821 Flag of Spetses.svg
| image_map         = 2011 Dimos Spetson.png
| image_skyline     = 20090730 spetsai033.jpg
| caption_skyline   = 
| periph            = [[Attica (region)|Attica]]
| periphunit        = [[Islands (regional unit)|Islands]]
| pop_municipality  = 3748
| area_municipality = 27.121
| population_as_of  = 2021
| elevation         = 
| coordinates       = {{Coord|37|15|27|N|23|08|24|E|type:isle|display=inline,title}}
| postal_code       = 180 50
| area_code         = 22980
| licence           = Z
| mayor             = Evgenia Frangia<ref name=mayor>{{Cite web |url=https://ekloges.ypes.gr/current/d/home/en/municipalities/9212/ |title=Municipality of Spetses, Municipal elections{{snd}}October 2023 |publisher=[[Ministry of the Interior (Greece)|Ministry of Interior]]}}</ref>
| party             = 
| since             = 2023
| website           = [https://spetses.gov.gr/ spetses.gov.gr]
}}

'''Spetses''' ({{langx|el|Σπέτσες}}, {{langx|grc|Πιτυοῦσσα}} "Pityussa") is an island in [[Attica (region)|Attica]], [[Greece]].<ref name=Kallikratis>{{Cite web |url=http://www.et.gr/idocs-nph/search/pdfViewerForm.html?args=5C7QrtC22wGYK2xFpSwMnXdtvSoClrL8-SrPzKAEPjjtIl9LGdkF53UIxsx942CdyqxSQYNuqAGCF0IfB9HI6hq6ZkZV96FIukI0UzcPsWCK0LpLhpa7rhiWB4R5ntTnoWw7U8E1Amg. |title=ΦΕΚ A 87/2010, Kallikratis reform law text |language=el |publisher=[[Government Gazette (Greece)|Government Gazette]] |access-date=7 September 2021 |archive-date=18 July 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100718094132/http://www.et.gr/idocs-nph/search/pdfViewerForm.html?args=5C7QrtC22wGYK2xFpSwMnXdtvSoClrL8-SrPzKAEPjjtIl9LGdkF53UIxsx942CdyqxSQYNuqAGCF0IfB9HI6hq6ZkZV96FIukI0UzcPsWCK0LpLhpa7rhiWB4R5ntTnoWw7U8E1Amg. |url-status=live }}</ref> It is counted among the [[Saronic Islands]] group. Until 1948, it was part of the [[Argolis and Corinthia Prefecture]], which is now split into [[Argolis]] and [[Corinthia]]. In ancient times, it was known as Pityussa.

The island is now an independent [[Communities and Municipalities of Greece|municipality]], with no internal boundaries within the municipality. The town of [[Spetses (town)|Spetses]] is the only large settlement on the island. The other settlements on the island are Moní Ayíon Pánton, Ligonéri, Ágioi Anárgyroi, Kouzoúnos. Also part of the Municipality of Spetses are the islands of [[Spetsopoula]], [[Falkonera]], and [[Velopoula]] (all uninhabited). The municipality has an area of 27.121&nbsp;km<sup>2</sup>.<ref name=stat01>{{cite web |url=http://dlib.statistics.gr/Book/GRESYE_02_0101_00098%20.pdf |publisher=National Statistical Service of Greece |title=Population & housing census 2001 (incl. area and average elevation) |language=el |access-date=10 November 2016 |archive-date=21 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150921212047/http://dlib.statistics.gr/Book/GRESYE_02_0101_00098%20.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref>

An unusual aspect of Spetses is that no private automobiles are allowed within the town limits. The most common modes of transport are walking, horse-drawn carriages, bicycles, mopeds, and motorcycles. Only taxis and delivery vehicles are allowed in the downtown area. Ferries and high-speed [[Hydrofoil|hydrofoils]] arrive regularly from the Athenian port of [[Piraeus]].

Trails encircle the island and total about 25 to 30&nbsp;km. Beaches closest to the town of Spetses include Ayios Mamas in the town centre; and Kaíki (previously College) beach {{convert|1|km|1|abbr=off}} to the northwest and Ayia Marina {{convert|2|km|0|abbr=off}} to the south, both of which offer water-sports. Public buses serve beaches further outside town, including Zogeria, Ayioi Anaryiroi, and Ayia Paraskevi.

== Etymology ==
The name of the island derives from the [[Medieval Greek|Medieval]] and [[Modern Greek]] noun σπέτσες, ''spétses'' {{gloss|spices, herbs}}, which in turn derives from the [[Italian language|Italian]] and [[Venetian language|Venetian]] ''spezie'' {{gloss|spices}}.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Symeonides |first=Charalampos P. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NeORpwAACAAJ |title=Ετυμολογικό Λεξικό των Νεοελληνικών Οικωνυμίων |date=2010 |publisher=Kykkos Monastery Research Centre |isbn=978-960-92762-2-1 |volume=2 |page=1303 |language=el |access-date=11 July 2023 |archive-date=12 May 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230512025221/https://books.google.com/books?id=NeORpwAACAAJ |url-status=live }}</ref> The Ancient Greek name for the island Πιτυοῦσσα describes its forested nature 'abounding in pine trees'.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Πιτυούσσα |url=https://morphologia_gr_en.en-academic.com/61299/%CE%A0%CE%B9%CF%84%CF%85%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%83%CF%83%CE%B1 |access-date=2023-10-27 |website=Academic Dictionaries and Encyclopedias |language=en |archive-date=27 October 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231027162233/https://morphologia_gr_en.en-academic.com/61299/%CE%A0%CE%B9%CF%84%CF%85%CE%BF%CF%8D%CF%83%CF%83%CE%B1 |url-status=live }}</ref>

==History==
The island of Spetses, located in the [[Mediterranean Sea]], was first occupied during the [[Mesolithic|Mesolithic Age]], in around 8000 BC. During that period the [[island]] was connected by an isthmus to the mainland of Argolida, at the point now named Kosta. Pieces of flint from that time were found near the part of the island named Zogeria, containing a water source probably available since the same period. Other archaeological finds were located in the area of Saint Marina, the site of the first Hellenic settlement to be found on the island, dating to the 3rd millennium BC. At least three natural harbours of Spetses (Saint Marina, Saint Paraskevi, and Zogeria) served as a refuge for ships carrying goods to and from the Argolis Gulf during the peak of the [[Lerna#Archaeology|State of Lerna]] (about 2300 BC).

After the collapse of the State of Lerna, Spetses suffered a period of decline. Artefacts in the areas of Saint Marina and Saint Anargyroi are characteristic of the existing settlements belonging the late [[Mycenaean period]]; the 12th to 13th century BC. At the time of the [[Peloponnesian War]], stone observatories were built at the sites of Prophet Elias and Zogeria.

Mention of the island of Spetses was made both by [[Strabo]] in the 1st century BC and [[Pausanias (geographer)|Pausanias]] in the 2nd century AD, referring to the island as Pitiousa. The raid by the [[Goths]] in the Eastern Roman empire caused a wave of refugees to flee to Spetses, resulting in the re-settlement of the island. They were concentrated in the Old Port, which became one of the three largest cities of Argolis (including Argos and Hermione).

===Venetian and Ottoman rule===
In the 15th century, the [[Venice|Venetians]], who had ruled the island since 1220, named it ''Spezia'' ("Spice") for its position on a major traderoute that dealt in spices. Over time the name was Hellenised to ''Spetsai'' (Spetse/Spetses).

[[File:Kyriakou Ioannis - Greek Fighter.JPG|thumb|left|160px|Portrait of [[Ioannis Kyriakou]], fighter of the [[Greek War of Independence]], from Spetses.]]

During the 18th century, after the conquest of the Peloponnese by the Ottomans and the Venetian expulsion, many [[Arvanites]] took refuge in Spetses in order to escape Ottoman persecution. These refugees created the old village of Spetses, in the area of Kastelli; it is fortified by a wall that reinforces the natural protection provided by the terrain. Over the years the island developed a significant naval power. The Greek Coalition{{Clarify|date=March 2013}}, in cooperation with the Russians in the [[Russo-Turkish War of 1768–1774]], turned the powerful merchant fleet of Spetses to a significant power against the [[Ottoman Empire]] during the so-called [[Orlov Revolt]], also known as the ''Orlofika''. In response to these events, in 1770 the Turks destroyed the only village on the island.

For some years after the destruction of the village, the island was deserted. It was re-occupied in 1774 by new settlers from the opposite coast of the Peloponnese after the [[Treaty of Küçük Kaynarca]]. This allowed the Russians free movement of ships in the Mediterranean. A powerful commercial fleet was recreated by using the Russian flag to establish trade routes with neighbouring countries. Merchant seafaring was the only source of livelihood for men of many of the rocky, non-arable Greek islands, and the brisk Mediterranean and Black Sea trade of the 18th and 19th centuries allowed them to prosper. They did especially and spectacularly so during the [[Continental System|trade embargoes]] that were imposed during the [[Napoleonic Wars]]; Greek merchantmen and crews were willing and able to work with, or against, both belligerent sides at tremendous profit.

After the re-occupation of Spetses, the settlement began to expand beyond the Kastelli region. This growth stimulated a corresponding increase in the maritime economic activities of the island.

An Arvanite community still inhabits the island.<ref>{{Cite book |title=Modern Greece |date=2022 |others=Elaine Cotsirilos Thomopoulos |isbn=978-1-4408-5492-7 |location=Santa Barbara, California |oclc=1252736820}}</ref>

===War of Independence===
From 1821, the island played an important role in the [[Greek War of Independence]], and it was the home of celebrated war heroine [[Laskarina Bouboulina]]. Her life sized statue can be seen in the main dock. Spetses was the first of the Greek islands to raise the flag of Revolution on the morning of 3 April ([[Adoption of the Gregorian calendar#Adoption in Eastern Europe|O.S.]]) 1821. Its fleet, consisting of merchant ships, played a key role in the struggle, both by participating in raids against the Turkish coast and the siege of fortresses in the Peloponnese. Particularly important is the involvement of the Spetsiote fleet in sieges of the fortresses of Nafplion and [[Monemvasia]] and naval battles of Samos (1824) and Kafireas (1825). Along with their counterparts in nearby [[Hydra Island|Hydra]], Spetsiote captains were so wealthy they had been hoarding their gold in wells, a wealth that they tapped to fund the war of liberation.
[[File:Spetses, Greece - panoramio (2).jpg|thumb|The Poseidonion Hotel of Spetses]]

Several ships have been named after the island, including modern [[Hydra class frigate]] ''[[Greek frigate Spetsai (F-453)|F 453 Spetsai]]'', the World War 2-era [[Greek destroyer Spetsai (D83)]], and the historic [[List of Greek battleships|Greek battleship]] ''[[Greek ironclad Spetsai|Spetsai]]''.

===Modern===
[[File:- panoramio (5339).jpg|thumb|View of the seafront]]

The [[Poseidonion Grand Hotel|Poseidonion Hotel]] was built by Sotirios Anargyros, descendant of a great 18th-century Spetsiot shipping family. His branch of the family had fallen on hard times, and he emigrated to the United States as a young man in 1868, when Spetses was declining as a maritime center. In 1899 he returned from the US, now a wealthy [[tobacco]] tycoon and started to transform the island of his youth. He built a mansion and met with rich Athenians who visited Spetses from August to October, in order to hunt the turtledoves and quail migrating between Africa and Europe. Anargyros had pine seedlings planted in the hills. In the early 21st century, the island is one of the most wooded in the southern Aegean.

He saw the need for a comfortable hotel and built the Poseidonion in the style of its French Mediterranean models, the Carlton in [[Cannes]] (1911) and the Negresco in [[Nice]] (1912). The hunters could bring along their wives and children to enjoy the comfort of the hotel, the spa, donkey rides, dancing to the orchestra in the evening, and mixed bathing on the beaches across the channel. The Poseidonion rapidly became the favorite vacation spot for high society, royalty, and the rich Athenians who came to enjoy a small slice of the grand life.<ref>Haritatos, Petros. ''Poseidonion and Spetses''. Poseidonion Hotel re-opening brochure, 2009, p. 1.</ref>

[[File:Vy från hus i Spetsai, Grekland 1963 SLSA 1150 7516.jpg|thumb|Spetses in 1963]]

In the 1960s and 1970s, the island attracted a number of wealthy Greek vacationers from [[Athens]] and elsewhere, who owned second villas or lived on their large yachts in the port. Some had children who became students of the Anargirios School. Although some hotels had been constructed, tourists often stayed in purpose-built holiday homes. From the 1980s, the Greek vacationers were often supplanted by north European tourists, especially from [[United Kingdom|Britain]], who were attracted by the low cost of a holiday.

Package tours to Spetses declined and eventually ceased during the 1990s. In the early 21st century, the island's holiday clientele is of a higher economic class and largely Greek.<ref>Lance Chilton, Marc Dubin, Mark Ellingham. ''The Rough Guide to the Greek Islands.'' Rough Guides, 2004. p.106.</ref>

[[File:Spetses 10.JPG|thumb|180px|[[Hatzigiannis Mexis]] Mansion ([[Spetses Museum]])]]
[[File:20090730 spetsai060.jpg|thumb|180px|Sotirios Anargyros Mansion, Dapia Spetses]]

The main Athenian tourist season lasts for only two months of the year, although most hotels and restaurants are open from Easter until October.{{citation needed|date=April 2014}} Efforts are being made by officials to extend the season, by adding major events to attract visitors:

* The Spetses Classic Yacht Regatta<ref>[http://www.spetsesclassicregatta.com/ The Spetses Classic Yacht Regatta] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151118003232/http://spetsesclassicregatta.com/ |date=18 November 2015 }}.</ref>
:In June a weekend of sailing races, starting/finishing in the [[strait]] between Spetses and Kosta. A record number of 75 yachts took part in the 2015 Regatta, which celebrated its 5th anniversary; categories were Vintage (built prior to 1947), Classic (built between 1948–1974), Spirit of Tradition (built after 1976), Traditional [[Caïque|Caiques]] and Open Boats.{{citation needed|date=April 2014}}
* [[Spetses mini Marathon|The Spetses Mini Marathon]]
:The main event is an international {{cvt|26|km|0}} marathon around the island. A {{cvt|10|km|0}} race was added to the program in 2014.{{citation needed|date=April 2014}} The mini marathon has been held since 2011. Swimming races of {{cvt|2.5|km|1}} and {{cvt|5|km|0}} have been added, as well as a children’s 1000&nbsp;m. Running and swimming races are also part of the three-day program. More than 2,000 men and women participate in the running events, while over 3,000 athletes in total take part in all sports. According to the Greek press, this has become the biggest annual sporting event in Greece outside of Athens.

In the early 21st century, there was a distinct shift away from package tourism on Spetses and the island once again became fashionable among wealthier Greeks.{{citation needed|date=April 2014}} Nowadays, the majority of visitors are Greek or independent travellers from around the world. Whilst it is still possible to find traditional lower cost rooms to rent and tavernas to eat in on the island there are now many higher priced restaurants and 'boutique' hotels around the town.

== The Armáta Festival ==
{{See also|Battle of Spetses}}
[[File:Spetses bouboulina2.jpg|thumb|The mansion of [[Laskarina Bouboulina]]]]
[[File:1821 Flag of Spetses.svg|thumb|Flag of Spetses during the [[Greek War of Independence]]. The text reads: "Freedom or Death".]]

On 8 September ([[Adoption of the Gregorian calendar#Adoption in Eastern Europe|O.S.]]) 1822 the Ottoman fleet, coming from Monemvasia, endeavoured to supply the town of [[Nafplion]], which was at the time besieged by Greek forces since the spring of 1821. Sailing between Trikeri and Spetsopoula, the Turkish force confronted the combined fleets of the three nautical islands, Spetses, [[Hydra island|Hydra]] and [[Psara]]. The admiral of the Greek [[Naval fleet|fleet]], [[Andreas Miaoulis]], gave orders to withdraw to the Gulf of Argolis, in order to outmanoeuvre the more numerous and powerful Ottoman fleet.

According to general descriptions, the battle consisted in distant and ineffectual cannonade between the two fleets.<ref>{{Naval Wars in the Levant 1559–1853|pages=488–489}}</ref> An Algerian [[brig]] was damaged by fire, having boarded by mistake a Greek fireship.

According to Spetsiot local historian Anastasios Orlandos, however, the retreat of the Ottoman fleet was the result of an attack by the fireship of [[Kosmas Barbatsis]] (1792–1887) against the Ottoman flagship. The latter fled to avoid it, followed by the other Ottoman ships.<ref>A Orlandos, ''Ναυτικά, ήτοι Ιστορία των κατά τον υπέρ ανεξαρτησίας της Ελλάδος αγώνα πεπραγμένων υπό των τριών ναυτικών νήσων, ιδίως δε των Σπετσών'', t. 1 p 310</ref> The besieged castles of Nafplion could not be relieved, and fell to the Greeks two and a half months later.

Each year, the second weekend of September is dedicated to celebratory events aimed at commemorating the events of the battle of 8 September 1822, in combination with the feast of the chapel of ''Panagiá Armáta'' (the Madonna-in-arms), near the lighthouse. The events culminate with a fictionalized re-enactment of the battle, including the torching of the Turkish flagship in the harbour, an incident not mentioned in historical depictions of the battle.

Spetses is one of nine European cities that participates in the European Network of Historical Reconstructions (Brussels, Belgium; Dublin and Cork, Ireland; Bailen, Spain; Slavkov, Czech Republic; Tewkesbury, UK; and Hydra and Spetses in Greece).{{citation needed|date=April 2014}}

==In wider culture==
Spetses was the basis for the island of Phraxos in [[John Fowles]]' 1965 novel ''[[The Magus (novel)|The Magus]]''. Many locations described in the book actually existed, including the "Lord Byron School" (the private Anargyrios and Korgialenios School of Spetses) and the "Villa Bourani" (located on the south side of the island above a popular public beach). Both the school and villa still exist, although the house is under private ownership. Fowles himself taught English at the school between the years 1951 and 1953.

Spetses is the setting of Richard H. White's 2013 novel ''Miro's Knot''. The book describes real locations on Spetses in extensive detail, with a portion of the book set on [[Spetsopoula]]. As of 2024, ''Miro's Knot'' is in development to be adapted into a feature film.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=J3mUmAEACAAJ |title=Miro's Knot: An Essay in Love |date=5 February 2013 |last=White |first=Richard H. |access-date=20 June 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt30333283/ |title=Miro's Knot |website=[[IMDb]] |access-date=20 June 2024}}</ref>

Spetses is also the basis for Catherine Lind’s 2014 novel ''Unexpected Journeys''. Both the apartment hotel and the tavern described exist on Spetses, though under different names. All the other locations described in the book are also actual, many under their real names. The tavern sits at the corner of the old harbour, while the hotel resides just above the small pebbled beach at the end of the new harbour. In the book, one of the main characters tells the island's history through the memories of his grandparents, and the novel's historical descriptions are fairly accurate, amongst other things recounting the story of Laskarina Bouboulina.

[[Maggie Gyllenhaal|Maggie Gyllenhaal's]] 2021 drama ''[[The Lost Daughter (film)|The Lost Daughter]]'' and [[Rian Johnson]]'s 2022 mystery-comedy ''[[Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery]]'' were shot on Spetses.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/stewartwhitley/2377832221635316403 |title=Stewart/Whitley (@stewartwhitley) on Instagram &#124; Ghostarchive}}</ref>

==Demographic evolution==
{| class=wikitable
! Year !! Population!! Municipal/Island population
|-
| 1981 || 3,729 || –
|-
| 1991 || 3,509 || 3,603
|-
| 2001 || 3,846 || 3,916
|-
| 2011 || 4,001 || 4,027
|-
| 2021 || 3,661 || 3,748
|}

==Notable residents==
[[File:Orlandos.jpg|thumb|160px|[[Ioannis Orlandos]]]]

* [[Laskarina Bouboulina]]
* [[Dimitrios Drivas]]
* [[John Fowles]]
* [[Alexander Frey]]
* [[Diomidis Kyriakos]]
* [[Ioannis Malokinis]]
* [[Hatzigiannis Mexis]]
* [[Ioannis Orlandos]]
* [[Georgios Panou]]
* [[Iannis Xenakis]]
* [[Vasilios Lazarou]]

==Gallery==
<gallery class="center">
File:Spetses2 evlahos.jpg|Spetses
File:20190512 220 spetses.jpg|Spetses seaside street
File:Spetses Banner.jpg|Spetses from the sea
File:Old port on Spetses island, Greece (48760272116).jpg|Old port on Spetses island
File:The New Port of Spetses with water taxis.jpg|New port of Spetses, water taxis
File:Panorama-Blick auf den westlichen Teil von der Insel Spetses in Griechenland (48760400402).jpg|Spetses island panorama
File:20190512 193 spetses.jpg|Door
File:20090730 spetsai0123.jpg|Carriage
File:Bubulina (BM 1881,0514.5).jpg|Laskarina Bouboulina
File:Jachten an der Bucht Zogeria auf Spetses, Griechenland (48759761563).jpg|Zogeria
File:Argolic gulf.jpg|Argolic gulf and islands map
</gallery>

==See also==
* [[List of settlements in Attica]]
* ''[[Fishtales]]'' – The island appears in the children's film.
* [[Free-diving]] – World record free-diving attempts frequently take place around the island.

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
* [http://www.visitgreece.gr/en/greek_islands/argosaronic_islands/spetses GNTO's web page – Visitgreece.gr]

{{The Saronic}}
{{Kallikratis-Attica}}
{{Arvanites}}
{{Aegean Sea}}
{{Stato da Mar}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Populated places in Islands (regional unit)]]
[[Category:Municipalities of Attica]]
[[Category:Saronic Islands]]
[[Category:Territories of the Republic of Venice]]
[[Category:Arvanite settlements]]
[[Category:Car-free islands of Europe]]