View source for Shispare

{{short description|Mountain in Pakistan}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Shispare <br />
{{nq| شیسپیئر}}<br />
| photo = Shispare above Passu glacier.jpg
| photo_caption = Shispare above the Passu glacier
| elevation_m = 7611
| elevation_ref = <br /><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 38th]]</small>
| prominence_m = 1241
| prominence_ref = 
| listing = 
| location = [[Passu]], [[Gilgit-Baltistan]], [[Pakistan]]
| range = [[Karakoram]]
| map = Pakistan#Gilgit Baltistan
| map_caption = Location in Pakistan
| map_size = 250
| map_image={{Karakoram OSM}}
| label_position = left
| coordinates = {{coord|36|26.4|N|74|40.9|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = 
| first_ascent = July 21, 1974 by H. Bleicher, L. Cichy, M. Grochowski, J. Holnicki-Szulc, A. Mlynarczyk, H. Oberhofer, J. Poreba
| easiest_route = Rock/snow/ice climb
}}
{{chinese
| t = 喜士帕爾峰
}}
'''Shispare''' ({{langx|ur|{{nq| شیسپیئر}}}}) is one of the high mountain peaks of the [[Batura Muztagh]], the westernmost subrange of the [[Karakoram]] [[mountain range|range]] in the [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] region of [[Pakistan]].

Alternate forms of the name of this peak include '''Shispare Sar''', '''Shisparé Sari''' "Fiak Ting" فیاک ٹنگ or Tegh Sar تیغ سر (which means Sharp Head in the local Wakhi Language).{{fact|date=August 2023}}
__NOTOC__

==Location==

Shispare lies east of the [[Batura Sar|Batura]] Wall, which is the highest part of the [[Batura Muztagh]] in [[Pakistan]]. Notable neighbouring peaks include [[Pasu Sar]] to the northwest, [[Bojohagur Duanasir]], [[Ultar]], [[Hunza Peak]] and [[Ladyfinger Peak]], which comprise the most southeasterly of the major groups of the Batura Muztagh. The [[Hunza River]] curves around the southeastern, eastern, and northeastern sides of the Batura Muztagh, and Shispare towers above the western bank of the river. In turn, the [[Hunza Valley]] lies in the [[Hunza District]] of [[Gilgit-Baltistan|Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan]].

==Notable features==
Shispare is notable for its tremendous rise above local terrain. For example, the nearby town of Karimabad, in the Hunza Valley,
has an elevation of {{convert|2060|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}, making for {{convert|5550|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}} of relief, in only 13&nbsp;km (8&nbsp;mi) horizontal distance. Being near the end of the Batura
Muztagh, it commands large drops in three directions (north, east, and south). 
In addition, Shispare has a strikingly large and steep Northeast Face.

==History==

Climbing began in the Batura Muztagh later than in other parts of the [[Karakoram]]. Shispare was the first major peak in the range to be successfully climbed, in 1974, by the "Polish-German Academic Expedition" under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit, one member of the expedition (Heinz Borchers) was killed in an [[avalanche]].

The first ascent route followed the [[Passu]] [[Glacier]] to the East Ridge, between the [[Passu]] Glacier.
(Note: this ridge goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east, so it is called the
"southeast ridge" and the "northeast ridge" in different sources.)
Difficulties included a long ice ridge, and the access to the ridge required 1500m of [[fixed rope]].

The next attempt was in 1989 by members of the Ryukoku University Alpine Club in Japan, led by Masato Okamoto. The group was on the mountain for almost two months, but was not able to summit; their high point was around {{convert|7200|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}}.

In 1994, a group from the Komono Alpine Club in [[Japan]], led by Yukiteru Masui, achieved the second ascent of the peak. They reached Base Camp on June 18, and Masui, Kokubu, and Ozawa reached the summit on July 20. They followed the same route as the first ascent party and climbed in a similar style, with a similar amount of fixed rope.

In 2017, an alpen group, configured Kazuya Hiraide and Kenrou Nakazima achieved to the peak for northeast route that unprecedented,and they won [[Piolets d'Or]] prize.

The [http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ Himalayan Index] lists no other ascents or attempts of this peak.

==Climbing==

The first (and second) ascent route is described above. It is likely that any other ascent route would involve (at least) similar difficulties, making this a highly challenging peak.

==See also==

* [[List of mountains in Pakistan]]

==Books, pamphlets, and maps about Shispare==
* ''High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks'' by Jill Neate, {{ISBN|0-89886-238-8}}
* ''Batura Mustagh'' (sketch map and pamphlet) by Jerzy Wala, 1988.
* ''Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram'' by Jerzy Wala, 1990. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.

==Other references==
* ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1975, pp.&nbsp;215–216
* ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1990, pp.&nbsp;294–295
* ''[[American Alpine Journal]]'', 1995, pp.&nbsp;295–296

==External links==
{{Commonscat|Shispare}}
* [http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ Himalayan Index]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20090413182053/http://encarta.msn.com/map_701607581/Shispare.html Microsoft Encarta Map of Shispare]
* [http://blankonthemap.free.fr/1_accueil/index.php?code=20050505 A clickable map of the Batura Muztagh]
* [http://blankonthemap.free.fr/3_geographie/33_karakoram/331_batura/batura.htm#_shis A short entry in French about the first ascent.]
* [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/dem3.html#himalayas DEM files for the Himalaya] (Corrected versions of SRTM data; Shispare is in the "Batura Sar" tile)
* [http://www.pbase.com/bmcmorrow/aerialsasia&page=15 Aerial Photos of Shispare by Brian McMorrow]

{{GilgitBaltistan-geo-stub}}
{{Pakistan-geo-stub}}
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram]]
[[Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan]]