View source for Dykh-Tau

{{Short description|Mountain in Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Gora Dykh-Tau
| photo = Dykhtau.jpg
| photo_caption = 
| elevation_m = 5205
| elevation_ref = 
| prominence_m = 2002
| prominence_ref= 
| range = [[Lateral Range]]<br />[[Caucasus Mountains]]
| listing = [[Seven Second Summits]]<br />[[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]]
| location = [[Kabardino-Balkaria]], Russia
| map = Caucasus mountains#Russia Kabardino-Balkaria
| map_caption = Location of Dykh-Tau in the Caucasus mountains
| label_position = right
| coordinates = {{coord|43|3|N|43|8|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = 
| country= Russia
| topo = Map and Guide to the Caucasus: Bezingi, Bashil, Adaikhokh<ref name=map>{{cite map
 |publisher  = EWP/WCP
 |title      = Map and Guide to the Caucasus: Bezingi, Bashil, Adaikhokh
 |url        = http://www.ewpnet.com/bzngimap.htm
 |edition    = 1st 
 |year       = 1994
 |cartography= EWP
 |scale      = 1:100,000 with mountaineering information
 |isbn       = 0-906227-53-4
}}</ref>
| type = 
| age = 
| first_ascent = 
| easiest_route = 
}}

'''Dykh-Tau''' or '''Dykhtau''' ({{langx|ru|Дыхтау}}; {{langx|krc|Дых тау|Dıx taw}}, derived from [[Turkic languages|Turkic]] "dik dagh" which means 'Jagged Mount'), is the [[List of mountains and hills of Russia|second-highest mountain]] in [[Russia]] and [[Europe]] with an elevation of 5,205 m (17,077 ft) above sea level. It is located in [[Kabardino-Balkaria]], Russia; its peak standing about {{convert|5|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} north of the border with [[Georgia (country)|Georgia]].

==Access==
Dykh-Tau is best accessed from the north (Russia). Bezingi village may be reached from Nalchik in Kabardino-Balkaria with infrequent public transport, here a 4WD vehicle must be hired. Thus Bezingi Alpine Camp is reached at {{Convert|2180|m|ft|abbr=|sp=us}}. From here it takes a further 2 days to reach the base of the climb.<ref name=200map>{{cite map
 |publisher  = Robin Collomb and Andrew Wielochowski
 |title      = Caucasus from Elbrus to Kazbek
 |url        = http://www.ewpnet.com/CAUCCMAP.HTM
 |edition    = 1st 
 |year       = 1992
 |cartography= EWP
 |scale      = 1:200,000 with general information
 |series     = Map Guides
 |isbn       = 0-906227-54-2
}}
</ref>

==Climbing routes==
This is one of the Caucasian Peaks, facing the  Bezingi Wall across the Bezingi Glacier. The first ascent in 1888 by [[Albert F. Mummery|Albert Mummery]] and Heinrich Zurfluh of [[Meiringen]] was a major achievement at the time.<ref>{{cite wikisource |title=My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908)/Chapter 12 |wslink=My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908)/Chapter 12 |last=Mummery |first=Albert |authorlink= Albert Frederick Mummery |date= |publisher= |location= |page= |pages= |scan=}}</ref> Their route up the SW Ridge is no longer used as the normal route which is now the North Ridge graded 4B ([[Grade_(climbing)#Russian_(post-USSR_countries)|Russian Grading]]).{{fact|date=June 2022}}

Starting from Misses Kosh the ridge is accessed by crossing the West Ridge of Misses-Tau then continuing to the Russian Bivouac located by a hanging glacier descending from the North Ridge of Dykhtau, 4 hours from Misses-Kosh. Once a notch between Misses-Tau and Dykhtau is gained, the North Ridge is followed to the summit. Allow 2 and a half days from the Russian Bivouac, there are several good bivouac sites on the North Ridge ([http://www.elbrus.net/caucasus/dykhtau.htm Details and map] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304001530/http://www.elbrus.net/caucasus/dykhtau.htm |date=2016-03-04 }}).

==Mapping==
Various Soviet military maps annotated in the [[Cyrillic script|Cyrillic]] script can found on the internet; two of the maps cover the Dykhtau area.<ref name=map/>

==References==
{{reflist}}

== External links ==
{{clear right}}
* {{cite peakbagger |pid=10403 |name=Gora Dykh-Tau, Russia}}
* [http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/153025/dychtau.html  summitpost.org: Dykhtau]

{{Seven Second Summits}}
{{Ultras of Europe}}

[[Category:Mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria]]
[[Category:Seven Second Summits]]
[[Category:Five-thousanders of the Caucasus]]
[[Category:Climbing areas of Russia]]