View source for Assynt

{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2019}}
{{Use British English|date=March 2025}}
{{Infobox UK place
| official_name                    = Assynt
| gaelic_name                      = Asainn<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.ainmean-aite.scot/placename/assynt/|title=Assynt|publisher=[[Ainmean-Àite na h-Alba]]|access-date=3 June 2021}}</ref>
| local_name                       =
| country                          = Scotland
| map_type                         = Sutherland
| population                       = 1011
| population_ref                   = <ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.scotlandscensus.gov.uk/search-the-census#/location/CP?title=Civil%20Parish%201930|website=Scotland's Census|title=Civil Parish 1930 by Accommodation type by Household tenure by Term-time Address (Indicator)- Table LC4428SC - Assynt|publisher=National Records of Scotland|access-date=3 June 2021}}</ref>
| population_density               = 
| os_grid_reference                = NC2092
| edinburgh_distance_mi            = 234
| london_distance_mi               = 637
| coordinates                      = {{coord|58.215|-5.0505|display=inline,title}}
| post_town                        = [[Lairg]]
| postcode_area                    = 
| postcode_district                = 
| dial_code                        = 01571
| constituency_westminster         = [[Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross (UK Parliament constituency)|Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross]]
| unitary_scotland                 = [[Highland (council area)|Highland]]
| community_scotland               = Assynt
| lieutenancy_scotland             = [[Sutherland]]
| constituency_scottish_parliament = [[Caithness, Sutherland and Ross (Scottish Parliament constituency)|Caithness, Sutherland and Ross]]
| website                          = 
| static_image_name                = Ardvreck Castle.jpg
| static_image_caption             = [[Ardvreck Castle]] 
}}
'''Assynt''' ({{langx|gd|Asainn}} {{IPA|gd|ˈas̪ɪɲ||}} or {{lang|gd|Asainte}} {{IPA|gd|ˈas̪ɪɲtʲə||}}) is a sparsely populated area in the south-west of [[Sutherland]], lying north of [[Ullapool]] on the west coast of [[Scotland]]. Assynt is known for its landscape and its remarkable mountains, which have led to the area, along with neighbouring [[Coigach]], being designated as the '''Assynt-Coigach [[National scenic area (Scotland)|National Scenic Area]]''',<ref>{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/9119|title=Assynt-Coigach National Scenic Area|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=2 October 2020}}</ref> one of 40 such areas in Scotland.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/professional-advice/protected-areas-and-species/protected-areas/national-designations/national-scenic-areas|title=National Scenic Areas|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=2 October 2020}}</ref>

The western part of Assynt has many distinctively shaped mountains, including [[Quinag]], [[Canisp]], [[Suilven]] and [[Ben More Assynt]], that rise steeply from the surrounding "cnoc and lochan" scenery. These can often appear higher than their actual height would indicate due to their steep sides and the contrast with the moorland from which they rise.<ref name="nsa">{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2017-07/Publication%202010%20-%20SNH%20Commissioned%20Report%20374%20-%20The%20Special%20Qualities%20of%20the%20National%20Scenic%20Areas.pdf|title=The special qualities of the National Scenic Areas|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|date=2010|access-date=24 January 2018}}</ref> Many of the most distinctive peaks such as [[Suilven]] were formed during the last [[Ice age|Ice Age]], when they were left exposed above the ice sheet as [[nunatak]]s, and they now remain as [[inselberg]]s of highly eroded [[Torridonian]] [[sandstone]] sitting on a bedrock of much older [[Lewisian complex|Lewisian gneiss]].<ref>{{cite web |last1=Butler |first1=Rob |title=An Essay on the Geology of NW Scotland |url=http://www.see.leeds.ac.uk/structure/assyntgeology/geology/geoessay.pdf |publisher=Leeds University |access-date=2018-02-13 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303185336/http://www.see.leeds.ac.uk/structure/assyntgeology/geology/geoessay.pdf |archive-date=3 March 2016}}</ref> The [[Moine Thrust Belt|Moine Thrust]] runs through the area, and is most visible at [[Knockan Crag]] [[national nature reserve (Scotland)|National Nature Reserve]], which includes a visitor centre interpreting the geological features of the landscape. In the east of Assynt lies a region of [[karst|limestone scenery]] surrounding Ben More Assynt.<ref name="nsa"/> This part of Assynt hosts the longest cave in Scotland, [[Uamh an Claonaite]], which lies {{convert|5|mi|km|0|abbr=off|spell=on}} south of [[Inchnadamph]].<ref>[http://www.darkanddeep.co.uk/caving_scotland.asp "Peter Glanvill Photography: Claonaite"] darkanddeep.co.uk. Retrieved 29 September 2007.</ref> The geological importance of Assynt is reflected in its inclusion in the [[North West Highlands Geopark]].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nwhgeopark.com/|title=North West Highlands Geopark|access-date=2 October 2020}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2018-09/Publication%202018%20-%20Visit%20Knockan%20Crag%20NNR%20Tadhail%20Creag%20a%27%20Chnocain%20T%C3%A8armann%20N%C3%A0dair%20N%C3%A0iseanta.pdf|title=Visit Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|website=www.nature.scot|access-date=1 October 2020}}</ref>

The name Assynt may derive from an [[Old Norse]] word meaning 'ridge end'. There is also a tradition that the name comes from a fight between the two brothers Unt and Ass-Unt, (meaning ''Man of Peace'' and ''Man of Discord''). The latter having won the tussle gave his name to the parish.<ref>Strang, Tom. (1975) ''The Northern Highlands''. Edinburgh. Scottish Mountaineering Club.</ref>

==Local government==
For many years Assynt was regarded as a [[History of local government in Scotland#Provinces|district or province]] of Scotland in its own right, and was later established as a [[Civil parishes in Scotland|civil parish]]. With the [[Shires of Scotland|introduction of counties]] it became part of the county of [[Sutherland]]. Parishes were abolished for administrative purposes in 1930, and counties were replaced by a system of [[Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973|regional and district councils]] in 1975, however the boundaries of both were retained for statistical purposes (e.g. census figures and [[registration counties|land registration]]) as well for ceremonial purposes such as [[lieutenancy areas of Scotland|lieutenancy]]. The regions and districts were replaced by [[Subdivisions of Scotland|unitary councils]] in 1996, and Assynt now forms a [[List of community council areas in Scotland|community]] within [[Highland (council area)|Highland council area]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.highland.gov.uk/download/downloads/id/4305/assynt_community_councilpdf.pdf|title=Assynt Community Council Boundary|publisher=Highland Council|date=April 2011|access-date=2018-02-13}}</ref>

==Ownership==
As is typical for the Scottish highlands, the Assynt area is divided into a number of large estates, which are in a mix of private, charitable and community ownership. The Assynt Estate, which includes [[Ben More Assynt]] and the lands around [[Lochinver]], remains in the hands of the [[Vestey Group|Vestey]] family,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=2765|title=Property Page: Assynt Estate|publisher=Who Owns Scotland|date=2010-03-31|access-date=2018-02-10|archive-date=11 May 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210511010504/http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=2765|url-status=dead}}</ref> who also formerly owned the North Assynt Estate (see below).
 
The [[Quinag]] estate belongs to the [[John Muir Trust]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=8565|title=Property Page: Quinag Estate|publisher=Who Owns Scotland|date=2010-09-21|access-date=2018-02-10|archive-date=13 February 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180213021719/http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=8565|url-status=dead}}</ref> a charity that seeks to conserve wild land and wild places.

The Little Assynt Estate, which comprises two of the old townships of Assynt, Little Assynt and Loch Beannach<ref>{{cite web|url=https://culagwoods.org.uk/index.php/little-assynt-estate/heritage|title=Heritage|publisher=Culag Community Woodland Trust|access-date=2018-02-10}}</ref> is now owned by Culag Community Woodland Trust, a local trust that seeks to provide employment and training and improvements in well-being for local people, as well as encouraging education about the area's natural environment.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://culagwoods.org.uk/index.php/contact-us/|title=About Us|publisher=Culag Community Woodland Trust|access-date=2018-02-10}}</ref>

===North Assynt===
[[Image:Suilven_from_the_North_West1.JPG|thumb|left|350px|[[Suilven]] from the air, showing the steep-sided mountain slopes and rough moorland landscape typical of Assynt.]]
In 1989, the northwest portion of the Assynt estate was renamed the ''North Lochinver Estate'' and put on the market by its owners, the Vestey family. This area consisted almost entirely of [[Croft (land)|crofting]] land, with 13 crofting townships being set up during the [[Highland Clearances]]. The purpose of the sale was to raise money for the owners to buy more hill ground suitable for [[deer stalking]]. The estate was purchased by ''Scandinavian Property Services Limited''. Three years later, the company went into [[liquidation]]. The North Lochinver Estate was divided into seven lots and put up for sale.<ref name="pressrelease">{{cite press release|title=North Crofters to Fight Break-up of Croft Lands|date=1992-06-09|publisher=[[Scottish Crofting Foundation|Scottish Crofters Union]], Assynt Branch}}. Reproduced in MacAskill (1999) Pages 47&ndash;48</ref><ref>MacAskill (1999) p.&nbsp;47</ref> The sale was handled by an [[Edinburgh]] based estate agent, ''John Clegg and Co.''<ref>MacAskill (1999) pp.&nbsp;38&ndash;41</ref> The proposed break-up of the estate was a cause of concern for the crofters as the boundaries of the lots cut across grazing land, creating the possibility of some crofters having to deal with more than one landlord. The crofters also believed that some of the portions would be directly administered by the owners, rather than a professional [[factor (Scotland)|factor]].<ref>One of the crofters stated ''It's a breach of trust, we believe, in the traditional relationship between the crofting tenants and the landlords. We want to retain the crofting lands as a complete unit'' MacAskill (1999) pp.&nbsp;40&ndash;42</ref>

The Assynt branch of the [[Scottish Crofting Foundation|Scottish Crofters Union]] met on the 6 June 1992, to discuss the sale. There the crofters decided to attempt to raise enough money to buy the estate and run it themselves.<ref name="meeting">MacAskill (1999) pp.&nbsp;46&ndash;47</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.assyntcrofters.co.uk|title=Home|work=Assynt Crofters' Trust|access-date=2008-01-25}}</ref>

Assynt Crofters' Trust, a [[company limited by guarantee]], was formed to make a bid for the land. Membership of the trust was open to crofters within the estate. The trust aimed to buy the estate and keep it under the control of the crofters, and to develop the area by initiating projects such as house building, job creation and tree planting.<ref>MacAskill (1999) pp.&nbsp;56&ndash;60</ref> Funding for the trust came from many sources. Each crofting family was asked to raise £1,000. Caithness and Sutherland Enterprise, part of [[Highlands and Islands Enterprise]] donated £50,000, while [[NatureScot|Scottish Natural Heritage]] gave a grant of £20,000. [[Highland Regional Council]] donated £10,000. Much of the money, however, came from a public appeal for funds. This appeal raised over £130,000 from 824 individuals.<ref name="funding">MacAskill (1999) pp.&nbsp;60&ndash;78</ref> Money came from throughout the United Kingdom, as well as abroad. Political figures such as the local Member of Parliament, [[Robert Maclennan, Baron Maclennan of Rogart|Robert Maclennan]],<ref>Maclennan's ancestors had been expelled from their homes during the Highland Clearances. He gave £1,300&mdash;£50 for every year he had served as an MP. MacAskill (1999) page 68</ref> [[Ray Michie, Baroness Michie of Gallanach|Ray Michie]], [[Alex Salmond]], [[Winifred Ewing]] and [[Charles Kennedy]] donated, as did the rock band [[Runrig]].<ref name="funding"/> A secured loan of £90,000 was received from Highland Prospect Limited, a company set up by Highland Regional Council to promote investment in the Highlands by providing grants and low-interest loans.<ref>The loan, with a low initial rate of interest, was to be repaid through the sale of Torbreck Lodge, a hunting lodge on the estate. MacAskill (1999) page 72</ref>

The trust made two unsuccessful bids, of £235,000 and £245,000 respectively. This caused the trust to adopt a more aggressive stance. They threatened to use right-to-buy provisions of crofting law to buy the crofts.<ref name="bids">MacAskill (1999) pp.&nbsp;92&ndash;131</ref> This option, requiring legal action, would be expensive and time-consuming; and would deny the crofters complete control of the estate.<ref>Crofting law allows crofters to force their landlord to sell, at a low price, their croft houses; the ''in-bye'' land (land which formed an integral part of the croft); and a share of the local common grazing land, provided it was adjacent to the croft and had been fenced off. However, the landlord would retain mineral, salmon fishing and hunting rights (except for limited rights for crofters to shoot deer who were damaging crops or grazing land). MacAskill (1999) pp.&nbsp;206&ndash;207</ref> The option was therefore kept in reserve in order to make the estate less attractive to other potential bidders&mdash;compulsory purchase of the crofts would force the new landowners to sell much of their newly acquired land for a fraction of its value. To assist this strategy, the crofters enclosed and divided an area of common grazing land, an action which would give them the option of buying the common land as well as the crofts themselves. Pressure was also exerted on the main creditor of Scandinavian Property Services, the Swedish [[Östgöta Enskilda Bank]], as the trust wrote telling them of their proposed strategy.<ref name="bids"/>

On 4 December 1992, the trust submitted a final bid of £300,000. This was accepted after four days. On Monday, 1 February 1993, Assynt Crofters' Trust became the owners of the North Lochinver Estate, which they renamed the ''North Assynt Estate''.<ref>MacAskill (1999) page 133</ref>

===Glencanisp and Drumrunie Estate===
In June 2005 the Glencanisp estate, including the mountains [[Suilven]] and [[Canisp]] and the neighbouring Drumrunie estate, with the mountains [[Cùl Mòr]] and [[Cùl Beag]], were bought by the local community.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/4605233.stm Assynt group buys estates in deal], BBC News Online, 3 June 2005</ref> The '''Assynt Foundation''' aims to create local employment and safeguard the natural and cultural heritage for the benefit of the community and future generations, and for the enjoyment of the wider public. The estates of Glencanisp and Drumrunie totalling some 18,000 hectares are managed by the Assynt Foundation on behalf of the Assynt community.

==Nature and conservation==
{{Infobox protected area 
| name = Assynt-Coigach National Scenic Area
| photo = Stac Pollaidh 3.jpg
| photo_caption = [[Stac Pollaidh]]
| location = [[Highland (council area)|Highland]], [[Scotland]]
| nearest_city = 
| map = 
| relief =
| map_caption = 
| coordinates = 
| area_km2 = 1298
| area_ref =<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas/maps|title=National Scenic Areas - Maps|publisher=SNH|date=2010-12-20|access-date=2018-03-28|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180612140337/http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas/maps|archive-date=12 June 2018|url-status=dead}}</ref>
| established = 1981
| visitation_num = 
| visitation_year = 
| governing_body = [[NatureScot]]
}}

Assynt has a wide range of habitats, from rocky and sandy shores to high mountains, with areas of woodland, upland heath and dwarf [[juniper]] scrubland.<ref name="field club">{{cite web|url=http://www.assyntwildlife.org.uk/assynt-field-club/introduction-to-assynt/|title=Introduction to Assynt|publisher=Assynt Field Club|access-date=2018-02-10|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180212221757/http://www.assyntwildlife.org.uk/assynt-field-club/introduction-to-assynt/|archive-date=12 February 2018|url-status=dead}}</ref> The area has a large number of freshwater lochs, which host birds such as [[black-throated diver]]s.<ref name="field club"/> With a highly indented and rocky coastline the area provides excellent habitats for many [[seabirds]], and is one of best places in Europe to see [[cetacean]]s such as [[whale]]s, [[dolphin]]s and [[porpoise]]s.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.discoverassynt.co.uk/wildlife.php|title=Wildlife|publisher=Discover Assynt|access-date=2018-02-10|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150523033944/http://www.discoverassynt.co.uk/wildlife.php|archive-date=23 May 2015|url-status=dead}}</ref> [[Ptarmigan]] inhabit the mountain areas, where [[golden eagles]] may also be seen.<ref name="field club"/> Besides the large numbers of [[red deer]], other mammals seen in Assynt include [[mountain hare]]s, [[European water vole|water vole]]s, [[otter]]s and [[pipistrelle bat]].<ref name="field club"/>

The Coigach and Assynt Living Landscape Project is a community partnership project which aims to bring environmental and economic benefits to the Coigach and Assynt regions of North West Scotland. The partnership includes landowners (private and community), the local community and charitable organisations, with the [[Scottish Wildlife Trust]] being the lead partner. The project is described as an "ecosystem restoration project", and aims to "bring woodland connectivity, species-rich flora and fauna, and economic growth back to the Scottish uplands".<ref>{{cite web|url=https://scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk/our-work/our-projects/living-landscapes/coigach-assynt-living-landscape/|title=Coigach and Assynt Living Landscape Project|publisher=Scottish Wildlife Trust|access-date=2018-02-10}}</ref>

A large part of Assynt, known as [[Inverpolly]], was formerly designated as a [[national nature reserve (Scotland)|national nature reserve]] but since 2004 the designation has been limited to the area surrounding [[Knockan Crag]]. The Inverpolly area is classified as a [[Special Area of Conservation]], one of three in Assynt along with [[Inchnadamph]] and ''Ardvar and Loch a' Mhuilinn Woodlands''. Many of the loch and lochans are designated as [[Special Protection Area]]s.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/map |title=Sitelink - Map Search|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=2 October 2020}}</ref>

==Settlements==
[[File:Inchnadamph.jpg|thumb|[[Inchnadamph]]]]
Communities in Assynt include:
*[[Achmelvich]]
*[[Ardvar]] &ndash; {{gbmaprim|NC171340|location}}
*[[Balchladich]] &ndash; {{gbmaprim|NC031304|location}}
*[[Clachtoll]] &ndash; {{gbmaprim|NC041275|location}}
*[[Clashmore, Assynt|Clashmore]]
*[[Clashnessie]]
*[[Culkein]] &ndash; {{gbmaprim|NC038330|location}}
*[[Culkein Drumbeg]]
*[[Drumbeg, Sutherland|Drumbeg]] &ndash; {{gbmaprim|NC121327|location}}
*[[Elphin, Highland|Elphin]] &ndash; {{gbmaprim|NC212112|location}}
*[[Glencoul]]
*[[Inchnadamph]]
*[[Inverkirkaig]]
*[[Kylesku]]
*[[Lochinver]]
*[[Nedd]]
*[[Raffin, Sutherland|Raffin]]
*[[Stoer]]

==In popular culture==
The [[Disney+]] original [[Star Wars]] series [[Ahsoka (TV series)|Ahsoka]] used the Glencanisp and Drumrunie Estate as an [[outdoor location]] with the permission of the Assynt Foundation.

==Bibliography==
* MacAskill, John (1999) ''We have won the land: the story of the purchase by the Assynt Crofters' Trust of the North Lochinver Estate''. Stornoway:Acair. {{ISBN|0-86152-221-4}}

==References==
{{reflist|2}}

== External links ==
*[http://www.assyntfoundation.org/ Assynt Foundation]
*[http://www.scottish-places.info/features/featurefirst8626.html Gazetteer for Scotland]
*[http://www.assyntcrofters.co.uk/ Assynt Crofters' Trust]

{{Scottish provinces|mainland}}
{{NSAs in Scotland|state=collapsed}}

{{Short description|Sparsely populated area of Sutherland on the west coast of Scotland}}

[[Category:Sutherland]]
[[Category:National scenic areas of Scotland]]
[[Category:Community buyouts in Scotland]]
[[Category:Parishes in Sutherland]]