wiki143 - User contributions [en]

Dry-tooling

2024-12-29T11:49:40Z

95.45.158.57: more sense

{{Short description|Form of mixed climbing on bare rock}}
[[File:Ice climbing Ecrins 2014 2.jpg|thumb|Climber dry-tooling in the Alps]]
{{Climbing sidebar}}
'''Dry-tooling''' (or '''drytooling''') is a form of [[mixed climbing]] that is performed on bare, ice-free, and snow-free, [[climbing routes|routes]]. As with mixed climbing, the climber uses [[ice tool]]s and [[crampon]]s to ascend the route, but uses only [[rock climbing]] equipment for [[climbing protection|protection]]; many modern dry-tooling routes are now fully [[bolt (climbing)|bolted]] like [[sport climbing]] routes. Many indoor [[ice climbing]] competitions are held on non-ice surfaces and are effectively dry-tooling events.

Dry-tooling developed from the mid-1990s as the standards of mixed climbing rose dramatically, and the most difficult part of the new extreme [[Mixed climbing#Grading|M-graded]] mixed routes was often the dry-tooling component (e.g. a roof or a severe overhang). Some of the most extreme mixed climbing routes now quote a D-grade alongside the M-grade to signify whether there was any ice encountered (i.e. ''Iron Man'' in Switzerland is graded M14+/D14+).

Dry-tooling uses the identical equipment and techniques of mixed climbing and has followed its increased regulation of equipment to counter criticisms that it is a form of [[aid climbing]]. Dry-tooling has faced additional criticisms due to the damage it can do to natural rock surfaces, and dry-tooling climbing areas are usually separate from [[rock climbing]] areas. Dry tooling has been advocated as a more accessible sport for women.

==Description==
[[File:The Finnish Start (D10) White Goods Ruthin Wales.jpg|thumb|left|Climber on ''The Finish'' (D10), White Goods crag, Wales]]
Dry-tooling is [[mixed climbing]] performed on surfaces that have no ice or snow. The equipment is identical to mixed climbing, except that none of the [[ice climbing]] tools used by [[mixed climber]]s for [[climbing protection|protection]] are employed (e.g. [[ice screw]]s). Dry-tooling climbers use the same [[fruit boot]]s, [[crampons|monopoint crampon]]s, [[Heel spurs (climbing)|heel spurs]], and advanced leashless [[ice axes]], which mixed climbers use. All of the unique techniques used in mixed climbing including [[stein pull]]s, [[torque pull]]s, [[undercling pull]]s, and [[figure-four (climbing)|figure-four moves]] are also used in dry-tooling.<ref name=CL1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/opinion-dry-tooling-is-awesome/ | title=Opinion: Why Is Dry Tooling Getting So Popular? It's Awesome | first=Dave | last=Gladish | date=21 February 2023 | accessdate=2 May 2023}}</ref>

While dry-tooling techniques have long been in use in the sport of [[alpine climbing]], the modern sport of dry-tooling is associated with the use of [[bolt (climbing)|bolted]] protection on standalone routes, in the same manner as [[sport climbing]] developed on standalone rock climbing routes.<ref name=CL1/> Like sport climbing, dry-tooling is also closely associated with competition climbing but in the ice climbing discipline.<ref name=CL1/> In tandem with the related sports of mixed and ice climbing, the equipment of dry-tooling has become more closely governed and regulated to counter criticisms of the sport being akin to [[aid climbing]].<ref name=CL1/> For example, dry-tooling in competition ice climbing no longer allows ice axe leashes and controls the dimensions of tools and the use of heel spurs.<ref name=CL1/>

===Types of routes===
Dry-tooling climbers avoid rock climbing venues as the action of the ice axe can damage fragile holds (i.e. dry-tooling climbers do not attempt to repeat graded rock climbing routes).<ref name=CL1/> Popular dry-tooling bolted venues are therefore often explicitly unsuitable for rock climbing due to weak rock (e.g. [[choss]] rock as found in the [[Dolomites]] or in the Fang Amphitheater in [[Vail, Colorado]]), and/or are perpetually in damp and wet condition.<ref name=CL1/><ref name=PM1/>

Leading dry-tooling climbers focus on roofs to push standards (and under DTS conditions), and thus many of the most important venues are caves (or quasi-caves), such as ''A Line Above the Sky'' (D15 DTS), ''Parallel World'' (D16 DTS) in the Tomorrow's World Cave in [[Marmolada]],<ref name=PM2/><ref name=PM3/> ''Bichette Light'' (D14 DTS) in the L'Usine Cave in Grenoble, or the ''Storm Giant'' (D16) in a remote cave in [[Fernie, British Columbia]].<ref name=CL1/>

==History==
Dry-tooling has always been used by ice climbers and mixed climbers to train in the summer months of the off-season, and as part of mixed climbing, dry-tooling techniques have been used in [[alpine climbing]] for decades.<ref>{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | title=Five Drytooling Tips to Climb Stronger in Shoulder Season | date=5 October 2021 | accessdate=2 May 2023 | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/five-drytooling-tips-to-climb-stronger-in-shoulder-season/}}</ref> In 1994, when [[Jeff Lowe]] dry-tooled a bare rock roof to get to the impressive hanging icicle of ''Octopussy'' in [[Vail, Colorado]], and graded his ascent at WI6 M8, the sport of mixed climbing, but also dry-tooling was born.<ref name=RI2>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/tuesday-night-bouldering/tnb-jeff-lowe-invented-the-sport/ | title=TNB: Jeff Lowe Invented the Sport | first=Pete | last=Takeda | date=14 January 2014 | accessdate=30 April 2023}}</ref><ref name=CL2>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/jeff-lowe-climbing-alpinist-mountaineer/#_pay-wall | title=Jeff Lowe, Ice And Mixed Climbing Pioneer | first=Owen | last=Clarke | date=25 February 2022 | accessdate=30 April 2023}}</ref>

[[File:2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Cheongsong - 220.jpg|thumb|Climber doing a dry-tooling [[figure-four (climbing)|figure-four move]] and [[undercling pull]] at the [[UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup|2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup]]]]
While the early surge from 1994 to 2003 was focused on developing mixed climbing routes with sections of both rock and ice, as [[Mixed climbing#Grading|M-graded]] milestones rose, the technical challenges became more concentrated on the dry-tooling part of the routes, and particularly on breaching ever-larger roofs.<ref name=PM1/> At the same time, the [[UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup]] events were being held on non-iced surfaces that were essentially dry-tooling routes, and UIAA male and female competitors also began to push dry-tooling standards in the outside environment.<ref name=PM1/>

In 2010, French climbers, including {{ill|Jeff Mercier|fr}}, introduced '''Dry Tooling Style''' ('''DTS'''), restricting equipment use and prohibiting figure-four and figure-nine moves (also called a "[[yaniro]]").<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/jeff-mercier-climbs-first-italian-d14-at-bus-quai.html | title=Jeff Merçier climbs first Italian D14 at Bus Quai | date=7 January 2015 | accessdate=2 May 2023 | first= Matteo |last=Rivadossi | quote=It's important to underline that once again Merçier climbed without making any Figure of Four moves, opting instead for the more physical and natural DTS (Dry Tooling Style) climbing style he believes is more ethical and which he promotes internationally.}}</ref> Competitions under DTS rules have been held, and several leading dry-tooling climbers have set new grade milestones in DTS fashion.<ref name=PM1/>

In 2012, Swiss climber {{ill|Robert Jasper|de}} made the first ascent of ''Iron Man'' in completely dry conditions and graded it D14+, using a "D" prefix to denote "dry conditions"; he then repeated the route later in iced conditions and added a grade of M14+, for "mixed conditions".<ref name=UKC/> In 2016, when the late British climber [[Tom Ballard (climber)|Tom Ballard]] freed the hardest dry-tooling climb in history, ''A Line Above the Sky'', he graded it D15 DTS (i.e. done in the DTS style) and avoided the "M" prefix.<ref name=PM2/><ref name=OJ/>

==Equipment==
{{Main article|Mixed climbing#Equipment}}
The equipment used in dry-tooling is the same as is used in [[Mixed climbing#equipment|mixed climbing]], including [[fruit boot]]s, mono points, [[Heel spurs (climbing)|heel spurs]], and [[Ice tool|advanced ice axes]].<ref name=REI/>

== Technique ==
{{See also|Ice climbing#Technique}}
[[File:Ice climbing Ecrins 2014.jpg|thumb|Using a stein pull]]
[[File:Ice climbing Ecrins 2014 - 12056791655.jpg|thumb|Using a figure-four move and wearing fruit boots]]
As well as using standard techniques of ice climbing (e.g. [[front pointing]]) and of rock climbing (e.g. [[crack climbing]], but with ice axes), dry-tooling climbers have developed a range of techniques that are largely unique to their sport (and the derived sport of mixed-tooling). These include:<ref name=REI>{{cite web | website=[[REI]] | url=https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/learn-mixed-climb | title=Why (and How) You Should Learn to Mixed Climb | first=Corey | last=Buhay | date=8 February 2017 | accessdate=30 April 2023}}</ref>
* Stein pull. The climber inverts their ice axe and wedges the blade upwards into cracks in the rock, gaining an upward momentum by then pulling down on the handle (with the blade wedged). Stein pulls are used frequently on overhanging sections, and for creating a resting position.<ref name=REI/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/tech-tip-ice-stein-pulling/ | title=Mixed Climbing Skills: The Stein Pull | date=2 February 2004 | accessdate=30 April 2023 | first=Sean | last=Issac }}</ref>
* Undercling pull. The climber has gone above the stein pull hold, and can either convert their stein pull into a [[Glossary of climbing terms#mantel|mantel-type]] move (i.e. pushing down on the handle), or can re-set the axe blade into an undercling pull where they pull themselves into the rock; an advanced technique that absorbs a lot of energy.<ref name=REI/>
* Torque pull. The climber wedges the blade of their ice axe into a crack and then pulls sideways, thus creating "torque" between the axe and the wedged blade, enabling the climber to move upwards. Torque pulls are used frequently to ascent vertical cracks.<ref name=REI/>
* Figure-four. The climber creates a [[Glossary of climbing terms#lock-off|lock-off]] with their arm so that the ice axe is wedged into the rock, and the arm holding the axe is locked at an angle; they then use this arm like a hold by hooking their "opposite" leg over the arm and pushing their leg down to reach upward.<ref name=REI/> A figure-nine uses the "non-opposite" leg.<ref name=REI/>

In addition, dry-tooling climbers try to keep their elbows near their sides (i.e. to avoid draining energy in torque and stein pulls),<ref name=REI/> and are very careful in extracting wedged blades (i.e. which can ricochet back into the climber's face), and of gently balancing the front points of their crampons on thin holds.<ref name=REI/>

== Evolution of grade milestones ==
{{See also|Mixed climbing#Evolution of grade milestones | List of grade milestones in rock climbing}}
[[File:Jeff Mercier - DTS Tour 2014 Final, 29th November 2014 (4).jpg|thumb|{{ill|Jeff Mercier|fr}} in the final of a DTS Tour event, 2014]]
While many mixed climbing M-graded routes could be described as combinations of D-graded dry-tooling routes and WI-graded ice climbing routes, it was not until Robert Jasper's ascent of ''Iron Man'' in 2012, that D-grades became commonly used for routes that had no ice whatsoever—introducing the dry-tooling grade.<ref name=PM1>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/generation-dry-discovering-the-world-of-dry-tooling.html | title=Generation Dry, discovering the world of Dry Tooling | date=4 January 2019 | accessdate=2 May 2023}}</ref>

* 2009. ''Bichette Light'' D14 DTS L'Usine Cave, Grenoble, France. First ascent was in 2009 by {{ill|Jeff Mercier|fr}} and is the first D14 in dry-tool history; Mercier did it in DTS fashion and consensus is now D14.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Desnivel]] | url=https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-hielo/will-gadd-escala-lo-mas-duro-de-su-vida-con-instagrade-en-the-temple/ | title=Will Gadd climbs the hardest of his life with Instagram at The Temple | date=8 January 2016 | accessdate=2 May 2023}}</ref>
* 2012. ''Iron Man'' D14+ [[Eptingen]], Switzerland. First ascent was in 2012 by {{ill|Robert Jasper|de}} and was one of the first D14+s in dry-tool history; Japer climbed it in dry conditions grading it D14+, and did it later in iced conditions grading it M14+ (the first M14+ in history).<ref name=UKC>{{cite web | magazine=UKClimbing | date=22 February 2012 | first=Jack | last=Geldard | accessdate=1 May 2023 | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/02/robert_jasper_on_iron_man_m14+-66882 | title=Robert Jasper on Iron Man (M14+)}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Desnivel]] | url=https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-hielo/la-vuelta-al-mundo-del-drytooling-extremo-de-young-hye-kwon/ | title=Around the world of extreme drytooling by Young-Hye Kwon | date=12 March 2015 | accessdate=1 May 2023 | quote=The flight dropped him off directly in Switzerland, where he wasted no time heading to the Eptingen area to see with his own eyes what is considered to be the toughest route in world mixed sports, Ironman D/M14+, opened by Robert Jasper, in 2012.}}</ref>
* 2016. ''A Line Above the Sky'' D15 DTS Tomorrow's World Cave, [[Dolomites]], Italy. First ascent was in 2016 by [[Tom Ballard (climber)|Tom Ballard]] and is considered the first D15 in dry-tool climbing history; Ballard also climbed it in DTS fashion.<ref name=PM2>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/tom-ballard-claims-worlds-first-d15-dry-tooling-climb-in-the-dolomites.html | date=5 February 2016 | accessdate=2 May 2023 | title=Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/tom-ballard-establishes-worlds-hardest-dry-tooling-route/ | title=Tom Ballard Establishes World's Hardest Dry-Tooling Route | date=February 2016 | accessdate=2 May 2023}}</ref> Grade was confirmed by Gaetan Raymond, Dariusz Sokołowski and Jeff Mercier.<ref name=GR/>
* 2017. ''Storm Giant'' D16 [[Fernie, British Columbia]], Canada. First ascent was in 2017 by Gordon McArthur and is considered the first D16 in dry-tool climbing history; McArthur did not climb it in DTS fashion.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/gordon-mcarthur-vs-storm-giant-worlds-first-proposed-d16-drytooling-climb.html | date=9 December 2017 | accessdate=2 May 2023 | title=Gordon McArthur vs. Storm Giant, world's first proposed D16 dry tooling climb}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/videos/climbing/storm-giant-worlds-hardest-drytooling-route/ | title=Storm Giant – The World's Hardest Drytooling Route | date=December 2017 | accessdate=2 May 2023 | first=Krystan | last=Kosteki}}</ref><ref name=OJ>{{cite web | magazine=The Outdoor Journal | url=https://www.outdoorjournal.com/news-2/worlds-hardest-dry-tooling-route-established-canada/ | date=22 August 2017 | accessdate=2 May 2023 | first=Michael | last=Levy | title=World's Hardest Dry-Tooling Route Established in Canada}}</ref>
* 2019. ''Parallel World'' D16 DTS Tomorrow's World Cave, [[Dolomites]], Italy. First ascent was in 2019 by Darek Sokołowski and is the first D16 in dry-tool climbing history that was done in DTS fashion.<ref name=PM3>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/dariusz-sokolowski-discovers-parallel-world-d16-dry-tooling-dolomites.html | date=8 January 2019 | accessdate=2 May 2023 | title=Dariusz Sokołowski discovers his Parallel World, D16 dry tooling in the Dolomites}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/darek-sokolowski-establishes-parallel-world-d16-possibly-worlds-hardest-dry-tooling-route/ | first=Krystan | last=Kosteki | title=Darek Sokołowski Establishes "Parallel World" (D16), Possibly World's Hardest Dry-Tooling Route | date=8 January 2019 | accessdate=2 May 2023}}</ref> Then the route has been downgraded to D15+ by ''Kwon YoungHye'' and Matteo Pillon.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Matteo Pilon ripete Parallel World - Up-Climbing |url=https://www.up-climbing.com/ghiaccio-misto/news-ghiaccio-misto/matteo-pilon-ripete-parallel-world-2/ |access-date=2024-03-11 |website=www.up-climbing.com|date=17 November 2021 }}</ref> The first and so far only repeat in DTS was done in 2024 by Victor Varoshkin.
* 2021. ''Aletheia'' D16 Tana del Drago ("Dragon's Den"), [[Ponte nelle Alpi]], Italy. First ascent by Matteo Pilon; second by Kevin Lindlau in 2024.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Walsh |first=Anthony |date=2024-01-30 |title=American Climbs the World's Hardest Dry Tooling Route |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/american-climbs-worlds-hardest-dry-tooling-route/ |access-date=2024-03-11 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2024-02-01 |title=American Climber Repeats D16 on Huge Roof |url=https://gripped.com/news/american-climber-repeats-d16-on-huge-roof/ |access-date=2024-03-11 |magazine=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}}</ref>
* 2024. ''Téleios'' D16+ Tana del Drago, [[Ponte nelle Alpi]], Italy. First ascent by Matteo Pilon, the route has not yet been repeated.<ref>{{Citation |title=Téleios D16+ First Ascent - Tana del Drago (Italy) - Matteo Pilon | date=9 March 2024 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spSdyh6js20 |access-date=2024-03-11 |language=en}}</ref>

===Female grade milestones===
{{See also|Mixed climbing#Female grade milestones}}
[[File:Angelika Rainer Marmolada 1.png|thumb|{{ill|Angelika Rainer|it}} on ''French Connection'' (D15-), Tomorrow's World Cave, Marmolada, Italy]]
Most leading female dry-tooling climbers are competition ice climbers from the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour; on several occasions, female dry-tooling climbers have set grade milestones that matched the highest male grades at the time; dry-tooling has been advocated as an accessible sport for women:<ref name=BMC/>

* 2007. ''Law and Order'' D13 Diebsöfen, Austria. First female ascent was in 2007 by [[Ines Papert]] and is considered the first D13 by a female in dry-tooling history; also graded M13 but is largely a dry route.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/ines-papert-imposes-law-and-order-m13.html | title=Ines Papert imposes Law and Order M13 | date=22 February 2007 | accessdate=3 May 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]] | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-ines-papert-first-woman-M13 | title=First woman to send M13 | first=Erik | last=Lambert | date=17 March 2007 | accessdate=3 May 2023}}</ref>
* 2013. ''Iron Man'' D14+ [[Eptingen]], Switzerland. First female ascent was in 2013 by {{ill|Lucie Hrozová|cs}} and is considered the first D14 by a female in dry-tooling history; at the time of Hrozová's ascent ''Iorn Man'' was considered the hardest route in the world.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=UKClimbing | first=Jack | last=Geldhard | date=19 February 2013 | title=Female Ascent of M14 Mixed Route for Lucie Hrozova | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/female_ascent_of_m14_mixed_route_for_lucie_hrozova-67837}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/lucie-hrozova-becomes-first-woman-to-climb-m14-with-ironman.html | title=Lucie Hrozová becomes first woman to climb M14 with Ironman | date=10 February 2013 | accessdate=3 May 2023}}</ref>
* 2017. ''A Line Above the Sky'' D15 Tomorrow's World Cave, [[Dolomites]], Italy. First female ascent was in 2017 by {{ill|Angelika Rainer|it}} and is considered the first D15 by a female in dry-tool history; at the time the highest male grade was also D15.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/angelika-rainer-first-female-d15-with-a-line-above-the-sky.html | title=Angelika Rainer first female D15 with A Line Above the Sky | date=12 November 2017 | accessdate=3 May 2023}}</ref><ref name=BMC>{{cite web | website=[[British Mountaineering Council]] | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/interview-angelika-rainer-the-first-woman-to-climb-a-d15-drytooling-route | title=INTERVIEW: Angelika Rainer, the first woman to drytool D15 | first=Sarah | last=Sterling | date=4 December 2017 | accessdate=3 May 2023}}</ref><ref name=GR>{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/angelika-rainers-historic-d15-climb-in-italy/ | title=Angelika Rainer's Historic D15 Climb in Italy | date=23 November 2017 | accessdate=3 May 2023}}</ref>

==See also==
{{commons category}}
*[[Glossary of climbing terms]]
*[[Alpine climbing]]
*[[Ice climbing]]
*[[Mixed climbing]]

== References ==
{{reflist}}

===Further reading===
*{{cite book | title=Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing | date=1996| publisher=Mountaineers Books | edition=1st | isbn= 978-0898864465 | first=Jeff| last=Lowe| author-link=Jeff Lowe}}
*{{cite book | title=Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique | date=2003 | publisher=Mountaineers Books | edition=1st | isbn=978-0898867695 | first=Will | last=Gadd | author-link=Will Gadd}}
*{{cite book | title=Ice & Mixed Climbing: Improve Technique, Safety, and Performance | date=2021 | publisher=Mountaineers Books | edition=2nd | isbn=978-1680511260 | first=Will | last=Gadd | author-link=Will Gadd}}
*{{cite book | title=How to Ice Climb | date=2021| publisher=Falcon Guides | edition=2nd | isbn=978-0762782772 | first1=Tim |last1=Banfield | first2=Sean | last2=Isaac}}

== External links ==
{{Wiktionary|dry-tool}}
*[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/generation-dry-discovering-the-world-of-dry-tooling.html VIDEO: Generation Dry, discovering the world of Dry Tooling], ''PlanetMountain'' (2019)
*[https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/gordon-mcarthur-vs-storm-giant-worlds-first-proposed-d16-drytooling-climb.html VIDEO: Gordon McArthur vs Storm Giant, world's first proposed D16 dry tooling climb], ''PlanetMountain'' (2017)

{{Climbing navbox}}

[[Category:Types of climbing]]
[[Category:Types of mountaineering]]

Climbing hold

2024-12-27T16:25:06Z

95.45.158.57: /* Wood */ update this and remove incidential image

{{Short description|Shaped grip attached to a climbing wall}}
{{More citations needed|date=April 2024}}
[[File:2022-08-12 European Championships 2022 – Sport Climbing Women's Boulder by Sandro Halank–003.jpg|thumb|A [[competition climber]] using resin climbing holds on an artificial wall during a [[competition bouldering|bouldering]] event]]
A '''climbing hold''' is a shaped grip that is usually attached to a [[climbing wall]] so that climbers can grab or step on it. On most walls, climbing holds are arranged in paths called routes, by specially trained [[route setter]]s. Climbing holds come in a large array of sizes and shapes to provide different levels of challenge to a climber. Holds are either bolted to a wall via [[Screw#Fasteners with a non-tapered shank|hex-head bolts]] and existing [[t-nut]]s or they are screwed on with several small screws. In extreme cases, [[Anchor bolt|concrete anchors]] may be used (if putting holds on the underside of a bridge, for example).

==Early materials==

===Rock===
[[File:Klettergriff aus Naturstein 400.JPG|thumb|right|Natural stone climbing holds]]
In the early stages, climbing holds were crafted by casting real rocks into concrete blocks; later, they evolved into rocks with holes drilled into them, allowing attachment to a wall. While the feel of these holds is realistic, rock holds are heavy and can polish with heavy use. Rock holds are also difficult to manufacture.

===Wood===
Wood was another early hold-making material, mainly because it was inexpensive and easy to carve into various shapes. It is still used today in various forms for homemade and commercially produced hand holds. Wood holds are usually smooth and pleasant to grab, though they are difficult to wash and splintering may become a problem with age. [[Wolfgang Güllich]] made the first [[campus board]] with wooden rungs. In recent years wooden holds have made a resurgence, especially for steep training boards, though some climbing walls do use wooden holds alongside their resin holds

===[[Polyester]] resin===
[[File:VariousClimbingHolds.jpg|thumb|right|A variety of resin holds]]
In the early days, most companies that manufactured holds used a [[resin]] mixture. Early mixtures of polyester resin had issues with wear and tear, often becoming chipped and cracked. The chipped or broken edge of a resin hold can often provide an unintended place to grab that can be sharp or otherwise dangerous to the climber. Because resin holds are not flexible, they may crack if they are being tightened down on a wall that is not completely flat. Modern polyester mixes have largely overcome these problems. A final problem is the weight of resin holds. As hold sizes have grown and grown, in many cases resin has become an impractical material to use. However, using a process known as hollow-backing the weight of the hold can be dramatically reduced. Modern production methods such as hollow-backing are keeping polyester as the preferred choice for many climbing walls and hold production companies.

==Other materials==
Machined natural stone holds are intended to give climbers a real stone feel. Due to processing costs, they are more expensive than resin holds and require extra care when installing. They are purported to be more environmentally friendly, and to bring the feeling of outdoor climbing to indoor climbing walls.

A rubber-like backing may be placed on each hold in an effort to prevent the holds from spinning. This technique has had mixed success, as eventually the rubber backing begins to peel away from the wall, providing a similar unintended handhold as the chipped resin might. The softer mixture is more durable than a brittle resin, but with uneven climbing walls and overtightening these holds develop slow cracks that eventually render the hold useless.

"Synthetic rock" (resin/rock powder mixture) combined with slippery hard plastic is another innovation. The texture of these holds is quite like outdoor rock, allowing hold shapes that would be dangerous with a more slippery material.

Corn and soy based resins are being developed for use in climbing holds. The goal is an "environmentally friendly" hold material that is also light and durable.

==Modern materials==

===Polyurethane resin===
Currently, a large quantity of commercial holds are made of [[polyurethane]] (often called PU or urethane in the USA) or a polyurethane mixture. PU is lighter, more flexible, and less prone to chipping and breakage than polyester or natural materials. Like polyester (PE), PU mixtures can vary, and different mixtures have different textures and strengths. It's very simple to make a quality polyester recipe, but much harder to make a top quality polyurethane. If the polyurethane is too soft it will split apart when the hold is tightened, or the bolt might get pulled through the hold, or the hold will flex on the wall or could polish (become slick) quickly. If the polyurethane is too hard it will be brittle (like polyester) and the edges could chip or it could crack when tightened (also like polyester). Some climbers believe polyurethane can become warm with intensive use, though a few moments of not being held and some brushing usually solves the problem. PU holds are generally a lot lighter than Polyester holds as PU tolerates a much thinner wall so it can be hollowed out and maintain strength whereas PE holds need to be solid or have very thick walls or they are much more prone to breaking. Polyurethane is the leading hold material in the USA. However, there is an Atlantic split with most of Europe preferring Polyester mixes. There are many reasons for this, mostly that PU is generally a newer material and Europe only recently has been exposed to quality PU mixes. Additionally, PU is generally more expensive than PE.

===Fiberglass===
In an effort to improve the durability of climbing holds, many materials have been experimented with. Thin, hollow [[fiberglass]] holds are extremely light and strong. A desirable texture is overlaid onto the fiberglass using various methods. Early fiberglass holds had a texture made from sand mixed into paint, progressing to sand embedded into various types of resin. Modern companies have developed techniques to place polyester resin over the fiberglass, giving a hold which has all the benefits of both resin types without the downsides. The main issue with this texture is the complexity in manufacture means few companies have the ability to produce them and also the cost of these holds is relatively high. Texture longevity is also an issue.

T-Nuts may be embedded in the fiberglass so additional holds can be bolted to the main hold.

== Hold types ==

=== Jugs ===

The term "jugs", derived from the expression "jug-handle", has dual meanings in the climbing world. One meaning is size based—jugs are traditionally large holds. Most jugs should have space for both hands to fit on the hold. The other meaning of jug refers to a hold's positivity or degree of concavity. A hold that is called a jug should be fairly easy to use, meaning it is either a very positive hold or it is a flat hold on a less than vertical wall (slab). Because they are easy to use, jugs are often found on beginner routes, warm-up problems, and steep walls. Jugs are also commonly used as resting or clipping holds on routes.<ref>{{cite web
| title = Types of climbing holds & how to use them
| url = https://adventuremedia.org/climbing/types-of-climbing-holds/
| website = adventuremedia.org
| date = 26 March 2021
| access-date =22 March 2024 }}</ref>

===Mini-jugs===

Mini-jugs are holds that are positive but much smaller than traditional jugs. They are usually intended to be held with one hand only. They are useful because they are easier to carry in a bucket than big jugs and they use less material to manufacture than larger holds do (so they are more cost effective).

=== Slopers ===

"Slopers" are the least positive of the handholds. They slope down away from the wall with generally a smooth surface, therefore requiring the climber, for maximum friction and in order to gain maximum effectiveness of the hold, to use an open handed grip to pull against the hold and push inwards. These holds are usually considered more difficult and are typically reserved for advanced routes.

=== Pockets ===

[[File:Indoor Klimgreep.jpg|thumb|right|A hold with several pockets]]
Pockets are holds that have a small opening, only allowing the climber to hold them with one to three fingers. Pockets can be shallow or deep. One fingered pockets are called ''monos'', and are considered extremely stressful on the tendons. Finger strength must be trained in order to use pockets effectively. Though monos are the most dangerous, all pockets load only a couple of fingers, so climbers must be careful to avoid injuring their tendons. If the edge of the pocket has a sharp radius it will feel more positive but also more uncomfortable. A smooth radius on a pocket is generally the most comfortable to climb on.

=== Pinches ===

Pinches are holds that have two opposing faces which must be pinched (usually by the entire hand, with fingers on one side and the thumb on the other) to grip. Technically, any hold in which the use of the thumb in opposition improves the hold's positivity is a pinch. Pinches require significant hand strength to use, and are usually used on more challenging routes and boulder problems.

=== Edges ===

Edges vary in size and angle. The best way to grip an edge varies in all ways to grip a hold, from open hand grip, to flex grip, and closed hand grip (which is more commonly referred to as crimping). Crimping is when an individual places their thumb over their pointer finger. It is often used as the way to refer to an edge as a "crimp", and there are many ways to better describe an edge- microcrimper (smallest), slopey crimper, big crimper, bad crimper, good crimper, Fred Nicole crimper (microcrimper), juggy crimper.

[[File:Leistenklettern.jpg|thumb|Holding a crimp]]

The picture to the right shows a person using a flex grip on an edge. Though the edge is being referred to as a "crimp" in this case, the climber is not actually crimping on the hold.

=== Volumes ===

Volumes are an extremely large type of hold that any variety of holds can be attached to. The volume is attached to the wall, and it has pre-placed t-nuts in it to which other holds can be attached. Volumes were at one time made from wood, but now they are also made in a variety of materials (including fiberglass, coated wood, resin, urethane, and moulded plastic) by several climbing companies. Volumes are especially prevalent in Europe and on the World Cup circuit, where sometimes entire routes will be constructed from gigantic volumes. To imitate these textured World Cup volumes, sandpaper can be placed on homemade wooden volumes to create texture and allow climbers to make use of the volume's features.

==See also==
{{commons category|Climbing holds}}
*[[Competition climbing]]
*[[Indoor climbing]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Climbing Hold}}
[[Category:Climbing equipment]]
[[Category:Indoor climbing]]

Ice axe

2024-12-26T11:57:47Z

95.45.158.57: better

{{short description|Winter mountaineering tool}}
{{For|similar but smaller tools used typically in pairs for [[ice climbing]]|Ice tool}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=December 2016}}

[[Image:Ice axe.png|thumb|Ice axe 1 – pick 2 – head 3 – adze 4 – leash 5 – leash stop 6 – shaft with rubber grip 7 – spike]]

An '''ice axe''' is a multi-purpose [[hiking]] and [[climbing]] tool used by [[mountaineering|mountaineers]] in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow or ice covered (e.g. [[ice climbing]] or [[mixed climbing]]) conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand. On steep terrain it is swung by its handle and embedded in snow or ice for security and an aid to traction. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second climber, or buried vertically to form a stomp [[belay]]. The adze is used to cut footholds, as well as scoop out compacted snow to bury the axe as a belay anchor.<ref name="freedom">{{cite book | edition = 7 | editor = Cox, Steven M. |editor2=Kris Fulsaas| title = [[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]] | publisher = The Mountaineers | isbn = 0-89886-828-9| location = Seattle | year = 2003}}</ref>

== History ==
The ice axe of today has its roots in the long-handled [[alpenstock]] that came before it. Not only is an ice axe used as a climbing aid, but also as a means of [[self-arrest]] in the event of a slip downhill.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Bloemsma |first=Katrina |title=How to Use an Ice Axe for Mountaineering |url=https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/how-to-use-an-ice-axe-for-mountaineering.html |access-date=6 January 2024 |website=REI |quote=After proper footwork, knowing how to self-arrest adds another layer of security when you’re mountaineering. You should consider this skill an insurance policy and not something you want to have to use in real time. It’s far better to rely on good, balanced footwork to prevent a fall or slip in the first place. Before you climb snow slopes or travel on glaciers, self-arrest is a skill you should practice, practice, practice until it becomes second nature. There are different ways to get into the self-arrest position depending on your body orientation when you fall (see below). But the end goal is the same: Stop your fall by planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow and using your body to stop your momentum.}}</ref>

Most ice axes meet design and manufacturing standards of organizations such as the [[Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme]] (UIAA) or [[European Committee for Standardization]] (CEN). There are two classifications of ice axe, Basic (B/Type 1) and Technical (T/Type 2).

* Basic ice axes are designed for use in snow conditions for general mountaineering, and are adequate for basic support and self-arrest. Technical ice axes, which may have curved shafts, are strong enough to be used for steep or vertical ice climbing and belaying on such ground.
* Specialized scaled-down ice axes used for vertical [[ice climbing]] are known as [[ice tool]]s. Ice tools have shorter and more curved shafts; stronger, sharper, and more curved replaceable picks, and often ergonomic grips and finger rests. Used in a pair, one is usually equipped with an adze for chipping and clearing snow whilst the other has a hammer to aid gear placement.

For [[ski mountaineering]] and racing, where weight is of paramount concern, manufacturers have produced short (~{{convert|45|cm|in|0|abbr=on|disp=or}}) and light ({{convert|200|-|300|g|oz|0|abbr=on|disp=or}}) ice axes. Some of these have [[aluminium|aluminum]] alloy heads/picks which are unlikely to be as effective or robust as steel heads/picks.

==Components==
An ice axe consists of at least five components:
*Head – usually made of steel and featuring a [[pickaxe|pick]] and [[adze]]. A hole in the center is provided for attaching a wrist leash or [[carabiner]].
*Pick — the toothed pointed end of the head, typically slightly curved (aiding both in ergonomics and [[self-arrest]]).
*Adze — the flat, wide end of the head used for chopping steps in hard snow and ice.
*Hammer — the hammer is an alternative to the adze. May be used for aiding placement of [[rock climbing|protection]].
*Shaft — straight or slightly angled, typically wider front-to-back than side-to-side, flat on the sides and smoothly rounded on the ends. Traditional shafts were made of wood, but are now almost exclusively of lightweight metals (such as [[aluminium|aluminum]], [[titanium]] and steel alloys) or composites (including [[fiberglass]], [[Kevlar]] or [[carbon]] [[Fiber|filament]]).
*Spike, or [[ferrule]] — a point at the base of the shaft used for balance and safety when the axe is held by its head in walking stick fashion. Usually made of steel.

==Accessories==
[[Image:Ice axe ski basket.JPG|thumb|300px|right|A removable snow basket accessory installed on an ice axe]]
[[Image:Ice axe pick & adze protector.JPG|thumb|300px|right|A leather pick & adze guard installed on an ice axe]]

Ice axe accessories include:
*Leash – nylon webbing with an adjustable loop for securing the axe to hand. Often secured by a ring constrained to slide a limited distance on the shaft.
*Leash stop – a rubber keeper or metal stud preventing the leash from slipping off of the ice axe.
*Snow basket – similar to baskets on [[ski pole]]s, temporarily mounted on the shaft close to the spike to keep the shaft from sinking into soft snow. Not at all common in Europe.
*Pick and adze guard – a cover to protect from sharp edges and points when the axe is not being used.
*Spike guard – a cover to protect from the sharp spike when the axe is not being used.

==Size==
Ice-axe spike-to-head lengths used to generally range from {{convert|60|-|90|cm|in|abbr=on}}. This is just too short to be used as a walking stick on level ground (the way its forebear, the {{convert|150|cm|ft|adj=mid|-long|sigfig=1}} 19th century [[alpenstock]], was), but is ergonomic when ascending steep slopes. For flatter ground, where consequences of a slip are not large, walking poles are more appropriate.

The old method to approximate the correct length of an ice axe was for the climber to hold the axe (spike facing the ground) at his/her side while standing relaxed. The spike of the ice axe should barely touch the ground when the climber stands fully upright holding the axe in this manner.<ref>{{cite web
| url = http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ice-axe.html
| title = Ice Axes: How to Choose
| publisher = REI
| access-date = 11 February 2014}}</ref> This may still be appropriate when the ice axe is to be used on relatively flat ground, most likely in glacier travel.

Modern mountaineers often carry shorter ice axes {{convert|45|-|60|cm|in|abbr=on}}, for general use, with anything over {{convert|60|cm|in|abbr=on}} typically regarded as too large and unwieldy for chopping steps or climbing steep snow. A walking pole (providing a third point of contact), although stabilising and making a slip less likely, is unlikely to stop a fall.<ref>{{cite web
|url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/hill-skills-your-first-axe-and-crampons
|title=Hill skills: your first axe and crampons
|website=www.thebmc.co.uk|access-date=10 April 2018}}</ref>
<ref>{{cite web
|url=http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ice-axe.html
|title=How to Choose Ice Axes
|website=REI|access-date=10 April 2018}}</ref>
<ref>{{cite web
|url=http://www.expeditionguide.com/choosingaxe.php|title=Choosing an ixe axe, crampons and winter boots
|website=www.expeditionguide.com
|access-date=10 April 2018}}</ref>

== History ==
{{see also|Alpenstock}}
[[Image:Jacques Balmat 2.jpg|thumb|180px|right|Jacques Balmat carrying an axe and an alpenstock]]
[[Image:Travellers' Axe - Project Gutenberg eText 14861.jpg|thumb|180px|right|An 1872 diagram of ice axe design]]
The antecedent of the ice axe was the [[alpenstock]], a long wooden pole with an iron spike tip, used by shepherds for travel on snowfields and glaciers in the [[Alps]] since the [[Middle Ages]]. On 8 August 1786, [[Jacques Balmat]] and [[Michel-Gabriel Paccard]] made the first ascent of [[Mont Blanc]]. Balmat, a [[chamois]] hunter and crystal collector, had experience with high mountain travel, and Paccard had made previous attempts to climb the peak. Illustrations show Balmat carrying two separate tools that would later be merged into the ice axe – an alpenstock (or baton) and a small axe that could be used to chop steps on icy slopes.

According to the earliest manufacturer of ice axes, [[Grivel (mountain climbing)|Grivel]], these two tools were merged to create the first true ice axe around 1840. Early ice axes had a vertical adze, with the cutting edge aligned with the direction of the shaft, as in a conventional axe. This design lasted until at least 1860, but eventually the adze was rotated to the current position, perpendicular to the direction of the shaft. The Italian Alpine Club published a book in 1889 entitled ''Fiorio e Ratti – The dangers of mountaineering and rules to avoid them'', which recommended ice axes as among "the inseparable companions of the mountaineer".<ref name="History: The Ice-Axe">{{cite web|url=http://www.grivel.com/Storia/Storia_Det.asp?Cat=P |title=History: The Ice-Axe |publisher=Grivel Mont Blanc - Since 1818 |access-date=29 November 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080508175203/http://www.grivel.com/Storia/Storia_Det.asp?Cat=P |archive-date=8 May 2008 }}</ref>

In the late 19th century, the typical ice axe shaft measured {{convert|120|-|130|cm|in|abbr=on}} in length. British climber [[Oscar Eckenstein]] started the trend toward shorter ice axes with a lighter model measuring {{convert|85|-|86|cm|in|abbr=on}}. Initially, this innovation was criticized by well-known climbers of the era, including [[Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington|Martin Conway]], a prominent member of the [[Alpine Club (UK)|Alpine Club]], who was the leader of an early expedition to the [[Baltoro Muztagh|Baltoro]] region near [[K2]] in 1892 of which Eckenstein was a member.<ref>{{cite book|last=Rowell|first=Galen|title=In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods|url=https://archive.org/details/inthroneroomofmo0000rowe|url-access=registration|publisher=Sierra Club Books|location=San Francisco|year=1977|pages=[https://archive.org/details/inthroneroomofmo0000rowe/page/36 36–40]|isbn=0-87156-184-0}}</ref>

Early ice axes had picks and adzes of about equal lengths. By the beginning of the 20th century, the pick lengthened to about twice the length of the adze. Improvements in crampon design (pioneered by Eckenstein in 1908) and ice climbing technique led to use of shorter, lighter ice axes appropriate to steeper ice climbs in the period between the world wars.<ref name="History: The Ice-Axe"/>

A famous rescue involving an ice axe took place during the [[Third American Karakoram Expedition]] to [[K2]] in 1953. One of the climbers, [[Art Gilkey]], was incapacitated by [[thrombophlebitis]].<ref>{{cite book|last=Viesturs|first=Ed|title=No Shortcuts to the Top|year=2006|publisher=Broadway Books |isbn=9780767924702|url=https://archive.org/details/noshortcutstotop00edvi|url-access=registration}}</ref> The other climbers attempted to rescue him by lowering him down the mountain by rope, wrapped in a sleeping bag. While crossing a steep ice sheet, a slip caused Gilkey and five other climbers to begin falling down a steep slope. Climber [[Pete Schoening]] wedged his ice axe alongside a boulder, and managed to [[belay]] the roped climbers, saving their lives. (Gilkey, however, later in the same descent was swept away by an avalanche. Remains of his lost corpse were discovered in 1993.<ref>{{cite book|last=Rowell|first=Galen|title=In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods|url=https://archive.org/details/inthroneroomofmo0000rowe|url-access=registration|publisher=Sierra Club Books|location=San Francisco|year=1977|pages=[https://archive.org/details/inthroneroomofmo0000rowe/page/226 226–234]|isbn=0-87156-184-0}}</ref>) Schoening's ice axe is now on display at the [[Bradford Washburn]] [[American Mountaineering Museum]] in [[Golden, Colorado]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.mountaineeringmuseum.org/about.php?id=Artifacts|title=Artifacts|publisher=Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum|access-date=27 November 2009|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091227093002/http://www.mountaineeringmuseum.org/about.php?id=Artifacts|archive-date=27 December 2009|df=dmy-all}}</ref>

In 1966, [[Yvon Chouinard]] led a significant redesign of ice axes, working with initially reluctant manufacturer Charlet to develop a {{convert|55|cm|in|adj=mid|-long}} ice axe with a dramatically curved pick. Chouinard believed that "a curve compatible with the arc of the axe's swing would allow the pick to stay put better in the ice. I had noticed that a standard pick would often pop out when I placed my weight on it." Chouinard's idea worked and began a period of innovation in ice axe design.<ref>{{cite book|last=Chouinard|first=Yvon|title=Climbing Ice|url=https://archive.org/details/climbingice00chou|url-access=registration|publisher=Sierra Club Books with American Alpine Club|location=San Francisco|year=1978|pages=[https://archive.org/details/climbingice00chou/page/27 27]|isbn=0-87156-208-1}}</ref>

In 1978, the Safety Commission of the [[Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme]] (UIAA) established formal standards for ice axe safety and performance. This led to the replacement of the traditional wooden shaft by metal alloy shafts. Ergonomically curved handles became widespread in 1986.<ref name="History: The Ice-Axe"/> Use of modern aluminum alloys have led to a dramatic reduction in the weight of some ice axes. One model now on the market, the [[CAMP (company)|C.A.M.P.]] Corsa, weighs only {{convert|205|g|oz|abbr=on}} with a {{convert|50|cm|in|adj=mid|-long}} shaft. One expert rated this lightweight ice axe as "ideal for low angle glacier travel" but said he "craved the solid and secure heft of a true steel mountain ax" in more demanding steep alpine conditions.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08f/ms-lg-camp-corsa-axe|title=C.A.M.P. Corsa Ice Axe: Too Light for a Real Challenge|last=Goldie|first=Larry|date=25 September 2008|publisher=Alpinist 28: The Alpinist Mountain Standards|access-date=27 November 2009}}</ref>

===Gallery of ice axes 1970s–2010s===
<gallery>
Image:Ice axe Stubai 1970s.JPG|A wooden handled ice axe from the mid-1970s Length: {{convert|29+1/2|in|cm|abbr=on|order=flip}} Weight: {{convert|29+1/2|oz|g|abbr=on|order=flip}}
Image:Ice axe CAMP 1970s.JPG|A metal handled ice axe from the late 1970s Length: {{convert|35+3/4|in|cm|abbr=on|order=flip}} Weight: {{convert|33+3/4|oz|g|abbr=on|order=flip}}
Image:Ice axe CAMP Corsa.JPG|A lightweight CAMP Corsa ice axe purchased in 2007 Length: {{convert|27+1/2|in|cm|abbr=on|order=flip}} Weight: {{convert|9+3/4|oz|g|abbr=on|order=flip}}
File:Black Diamond Ice Axe.JPG|A 2011 Black Diamond ice axe. {{convert|28|in|cm|abbr=on|order=flip}} long with a weight of {{convert|15|oz|g|abbr=on|order=flip}}.
</gallery>

==Attachment to a pack==
[[Image:Ice axe attachment points.jpg|thumb|right|180px|Arrows showing upper and lower attachment loops on a {{convert|25|L|cuin|abbr=on}} [[rucksack]]. A pair is provided on each side, here with a {{convert|55|cm|in|abbr=on}} ice axe on the left and a {{convert|50|cm|in|abbr=on}} ice hammer on the right.]]

When not in use an ice axe is stored on the outside of a pack (rucksack). Many models come with a nylon [[webbing]] loop sewn on its rear base (off to one side to allow the pick to stay behind the hiker), together with a means to restrain its shaft. Rucksacks with attachment points for two ice axes are also available, popular in [[ice climbing]] where two tools are used.

==References==
{{Reflist}}

== External links ==
{{Commons category|Ice axes}}
* [http://www.supertopo.com/a/Ice_Axe_Buying_Advice/a10557n.html Ice Axe Buying Advice]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20080622182012/http://www.spadout.com/w/ice-axes/ Ice Axe for Mountaineering]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20070106233623/http://www.goxplore.net/guides/Ice_Axe GoXplore Guides article on the Ice Axe]

{{Climbing-nav}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Ice Axe}}
[[Category:Axes]]
[[Category:Camping equipment]]
[[Category:Hiking equipment]]
[[Category:Ice climbing]]
[[Category:Mountaineering equipment]]